Failed power supply section

We still do not know what model you are working on to help you with a Service Manual. Again jumping to conclusions is not a good thing to do nor are you likely to find that microprocessor chip. The fact is that uP in most tape deck do not fail and it is very rare.
I suspect you have a bad solder joint or a regulator problem. The last Denon unit a guy brought me had a control section out due to a shorted 6.3 V electrolytic. I don't know where these low voltage caps come from but anything below 16 V to me is and I suspect are drop outs from 16 V manufacture lines. Change them out for 16V minimum. I have had a lot of decks fail totally due to shorted 10 V Electrolytics.
Manual wise- Try Hi Fi Engine or Owners-manuals.com or if you want paper try stereomanuals.com

It sounds like the power supply has partially failed. There are several voltages that the power supply makes, but it's missing one or more.
You should have the power supply tested and/or replaced.

Good day.

Follow this procedure for trouble shooting.

1. Remove the cover of your DVD player.Loosening all screw.
2. Check the input voltage of the power supply 220v/120v AC.If don't have input supply that comes from the ac cord,replace it.
3. If you have a input voltage supply comes from the power cord.Check the output voltage of the power supply such as 5vdc and 12vdc.
4. If the you don't have output voltage from the power supply.Check the fuse if busted,check open/change value of capacitor,check power transistor (regulator)if shorted and leak/bulging top capacitor of the power supply board.If you found any defective parts replace it.
5. If you have output voltage comes from the power supply.The problem could be the main board,replace it.
6. If you already done this procedure,test it by power ON the DVD player.

I hope this information will be helpful.Thank you and good luck.

U61 error means the DVD Rom deck is in the wrong position, has a faulty sensor or no power going to it.
There is a secondary 5volt supply on the main board that supplies the mechanism. That fails sometimes due to shorted turns in one of the chokes.

I don't know your set but the way it failed is noteworthy and possibly revealing.
Plasma sets have a little in common with the sets of 30 years ago; they use phosphors to convert electrons into light and the electrons are accelerated with a high voltage.
Loss of the video first indicates the high voltage section (or separate supply using input from a main supply) failed in a way causing the main supply to fail with the loss of audio and complete death.
If it was my set; I would pull the AC plug, allow the set to remain overnight to allow any residual voltage to decay, remove the back, look for a separate assembly the seems related to the AC cord coming in. This should be the main power supply and will have a primary fuse which is likely blown. If it isn't soldered in, replace it. If it blows again, you will need a tech to proceed. The second failure means the high voltage section (or separate supply) has a component failed that is causing the main supply to fail or at least overload so replacing it again isn't logical or productive. If it doesn't blow, you will probably only have audio and a separate fuse in the high voltage section has blown and protected the main supply from damage. It isn't likely that replacing the supply (or supplies) is a straightforward DIY project and there is a slim chance even if you did, that the plasma display is faulty and that the failure would repeat itself.
Because of the problems with shipping a set of this size unless you have retained the original packing material means you will need on-site service and it will be expensive.
It's a pity, but a fact, that our much more complex sets are just not as reliable (at least yet) than the mature designs of the earlier conventional TVs.

Hi.
it seems that your power supply or high voltage section is failing. Look for PWM IC genarator. MCZ 3001D on Power supply and near high voltage section. Try to replace these IC's.

It is possible that the main line in the power supply must be checked first for any leaks . Use a good multimeter to check for the resistance shorting to the ground. If there is neglible reading then disconnect the DC section and start from the power supply side. check from the supply wire, the capacitor, the transformer, motor and any foreign material that could create a short. Connect the line and use a good line tester to check for the voltage and disconnect one by one the sections until the line leak is found. Then probe into the section last disconnected to confirm and correct. I am sure this will not be difficult to solve. Good day

The power supply board on the DMR-E85H has problems. The earlier boards suffered from leaking capacitors and the later boards from voltage regulator problems. Go to the following links for details and photos on how to fix: Replacing capacitors:http://www.fixya.com/support/t216825-dvd_recorder_frozen_please_wait_display Replacing the voltage regulator:http://www.rbjtech.net/electrical/e85/e85.htm#0 Hope this helps. My machine had the same problem and has the later ps board. The voltage regulator replacement worked perfectly.

Is this by chance a computer power supply? Does the computer come on when the power button is pushed? If so, then the fan itself is bad- bearings are stuck/lubricant dried up etc. Replacement fans are readily available at low cost.

if the power supply is dead, then likely an internal component has failed. If you have some tech savvy, a voltmeter, soldering/desoldering items & skill, you may be able to repair the supply. A very common failure is one or more electrolytic capacitors, and these may show visible signs of failure- bulged out end, and/or leakage.

ATX style power supplies, used in most machines of the past 8-10 years have both a standby and main section. The standby supplies a low current +5 volts to a small portion of the motherboard. When the pwr button is pushed, the main section comes on, and supplies +5 (Red wires), +12 (Yellow wires), +3.3 (Orange wires), -5, -12. Look here for this info http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml

Voltages are precisely regulated, and any substantial deviation (more than a few 10ths of a volt) indicate a problem, especially on the +5 & +3.3 lines.

Anyway, you could make these checks. Replacement electrolytics- use the Panasonic FC series (designed for switching power supplies) available from Digi-key electronics, or equivalents (Mouser electronics another possible supplier).

If you have a voltmeter and some tech savvy, you could check the power supply section for the presence of the required voltages. You should see a +5, and one or more other voltage sources, like +12 volt. If your power supply is dead, then a component failure in the power supply is likely, or there could be a short/overload elsewhere that is keeping the p/s in protective shutdown.