Our lg washer model wm0642hw tub clean cycle stops

Use the scalegon powder or white vineger 200 ml to clean the tub put tub clean program it will works auomatically, dont put clothes

make sure it drains the water out..it will not go through spin if there still water inside the tub... also drain is timed. Is there any error message? thx

You can purchase the tub bearing here or here.

LG WM0642H Tub Bearing
LG WM0642H Tub Bearing

My LG doesn't have one either, but I recall that they recommend using the "Rinse and Spin" feature. Add a bit of chlorine bleach, run the cycle, and then "always" leave the door ajar after each use so that the machine can dry out. Cleaning out the drain area at the bottom of the rubber door seal helps too. You'd be surprised what I've found there -- other than the usual dog and cat hair!

Are you using the correct amount of the correct soap?
These machines struggle with soap overdose.
My notes:
You MUST use "HE" (High Efficiency-Low Suds) type detergent--but to use the correct amount.
Nearly all brands of "HE" detergent have incorrect instructions.

The correct amount is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Washload

HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon

This reduces/prevents:

1) Musty Odor

2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle

3) L-O-N-G Cycle Times (longer than time displayed)

4) Insufficient Cleaning Results

5) Small Water Leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the
front door gasket

6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on 2007 or older LG washers)

7) Reduced Spin Speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively)

Most consumers were doing what is *normally* the right thing to do, which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In this rare case--those directions should be entirely disregarded.

Additionally--in many LG washers--the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap.
This was a very big *faux pas* on LGs part--this "MAX" line has NOTHING to do with measuring detergent and should never be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount.
The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it DISPENSES from the bottom of the cup.
This is a very,very frustrating mistake that gives owners much grief.

After three months of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odor begins to occur.
After more than two years--a significant amount of soap scum/curd has accumulated in the washer. Odor-causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up.
It is imperative to remove this slimy residue. Tide sells a product called "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" which is very effective.

Once a tub has become heavily contaminated--normal methods of performing a TUB CLEAN cycle won't "cut it".

Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.

Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.

Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.

Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.
This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent useage.

After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.

Most digital-controlled front load washers have a software feature that consumers are unaware of.
If excess suds is detected by the MAIN BOARD (which monitors motor electrical load during rinse & final spin) the "suds kill mode" will be enabled.
This causes the washer DISPLAY CLOCK to stall.
The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds--usually a futile attempt--and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the DISPLAY.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You MUST use "HE" (High Efficiency-Low Suds) type detergent--but to use the correct amount.
Nearly all brands of "HE" detergent have incorrect instructions.

The correct amount is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Washload

HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon

This reduces/prevents:

1) Musty Odor

2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle

3) L-O-N-G Cycle Times (longer than time displayed)

4) Insufficient Cleaning Results

5) Small Water Leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the
front door gasket

6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on 2007 or older LG washers)

7) Reduced Spin Speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively)

Most consumers were doing what is *normally* the right thing to do, which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In this rare case--those directions should be entirely disregarded.

Additionally--in many LG washers--the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap.
This was a very big *faux pas* on LGs part--this "MAX" line has NOTHING to do with measuring detergent and should never be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount.
The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it DISPENSES from the bottom of the cup.
This is a very,very frustrating mistake that gives owners much grief.

After three months of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odor begins to occur.
After more than two years--a significant amount of soap scum/curd has accumulated in the washer. Odor-causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up.
It is imperative to remove this slimy residue. Tide sells a product called "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" which is very effective.

Once a tub has become heavily contaminated--normal methods of performing a TUB CLEAN cycle won't "cut it".

Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.

Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.

Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.

Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.
This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent useage.

After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.

Most digital-controlled front load washers have a software feature that consumers are unaware of.
If excess suds is detected by the MAIN BOARD (which monitors motor electrical load during rinse & final spin) the "suds kill mode" will be enabled.
This causes the washer DISPLAY CLOCK to stall.
The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds--usually a futile attempt--and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the DISPLAY.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Yes, it's normal. It is a safety feature because of the hot water used during the tub clean cycle. It prevents the machine from opening while the tub clean cycle is in process.

This is an Imbalance code. Your issue may be with:

• The load is too small
• The appliance is tilted
• Laundry is gathered to one side
• Non-distributed things are put into the drum

Try adjusting the load size, and make sure the unit is level.

use only HE (high efficiency ) soap,try not to use too much ,run tub clean cycle with a little bleach to kill smell

I have this problem and you can find the solution on this same web page by searching. It is likely the Hall Sensor that needs to be replaced (see proflevy posting on Jul 16, 2008). According to the postings, it is from soap build up on the sensor and replacing it costs $18 for the part and is easy (many responses on this). I am waiting for the part and will try to fix mine soon.