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Dryer where would i find the infinite ohms? Or how do i check them. i am not real familiar wityh this stuff but do not have the money to pay for someone to come out if you know what i meqan. Thanks again.

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Infinite ohms means that the part will not allow electritity to go through it. Another word for this is "open". An ohm meter can tell you if a part is good or bad while the machine is unplugged. It's a very handy tool if you're going to repair your own machine. It is not necessary to spend a lot. I've seen them for as low as $2.89 at Harbor Freight Tools.

To test a part, use an ohm meter on the terminals of the part. You'll need to disconnect one wire from the part (to avoid misleading readings) while making the test. Be sure to replace the wires after each test. Nearly all the parts will measure less than one ohm. The heating element should be about 8 or 10 ohms. A failed part will measure "open" (i.e. the reading you get when the meter leads aren't touching anything.)
It may help to pull out the tech sheet, usually under the console. It shows the path for current from L1 to N through the heating element. You will need to test only those parts in this path.

I recommend checking the thermal fuse first. Its location depends on which dryer you have, but it's always near the blower wheel. If you need more help, I'll need to know your dryer's brand and model number (almost always inside the door.)
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

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I have whirlpool duet GEW9250 dryer, press start sensing light comes on beeps but dryer doesnt start. Checked thermal fuse and got 0 ohms across, door switch also works. What else should i look at?


how`d they?about the beep,check your sensors if dirty,clean all possible sensor locations well with your paint brush.you forgot to tell if that zero means having continuity or infinite?if that infinite or no resistance at all,it means your sensor got busted and needs to replace with a new one.then be sure your lid switch activates well while the door of your unit being shut(closed).that`s all,may it helps you a lot

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You cannot check ohms with circuits that are connected together. Also with electronic circuits it is not recommended to do continuity tests with the meter as you could damage these. Also depends on what type of fuse you have. Please provide make and model of dryer and which fuse component are you looking at. Someone who is familiar with that model might be able to help.

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Does the actual flame come on or just the igniter? if flame comes on I would start be disconnecting the vent from the dryer and then running dryer. If still the same problem you can rule out a vent restrictiion problem. If its just the igniter coming on with no flame then check your burner coils on the gas valve. They should check less than a couple K ohms. A bad coil will read infinite ohms.

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Good day,
You will need an ohm meter to check the heating element. It should show only a few ohms of resistance.
With the back removed, you will see many small devices, mostly round and all should read zero ohms.
Pay particular attention to a long skinny white bakelite device in the center. It causes more failures than all the others combined. It should read zero ohms as well.

Two terminals stick out of the bottom of the cannister on the right side. These are the terminals for the element itself.

If all check, O.K. Check to see if you have 230 volts at the Plug.
Careful, that stuff can kill.

If the element checks open, then follow the instructions below.

http://www.applianceaid.com/wp_element.html

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Hello, remove the panel on the back of the dryer. then down and to your left you should see the thermal fuse (looks like this) dcd2014.jpg Next with an ohms meter test if for continuity. It should read infinite. If it shows open replace it. good Luck! Mike

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Most of these issues will need an ohm meter, unless you want to just take a guess.
For Gas dryers.
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If Electric, it would not be the fuse, as on electric dryers it is also in the motor circuit, and the dryer would not run at all. Check the heating element, should be around 9-11 ohms. If good, check all thermostats (operating, hi-limit, thermal cutoff). Infinite ohms is bad. Hopefully it's not more complicated than this, or it can get weird..... Hope this helps.

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