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Have you tried loosening the bolt on the back of the handle just a little bit?Have you tried loosening the bolt on the back of the handle just a little bit?
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Thus if the tank is continuing to drain down through the bowl into the sewer line, the rubber flapper is not seating properly with the flush. These become worn and torn and are easily replaced. Or, even with a new one installed, sometimes they are not adjusted properly to create the appropriate balance between play and pull. Play being the upward connection to the flush handle and pull being the downward draw with the gravity flow of the water. Too much play it won't actually flush or lift properly. Too much pull it does not seat tightly or won't lift up long enough to allow enough water to flow through to flush the toilet...as engineered by the geniuses who designed the toilet. A simple adjustment of the chain links attaching the flapper to the flush handle and perhaps a side to side turn of the cuff so the flapper is aligned to seat properly as it drops should be sufficient. And test, test, test, test, and test again until you're absolutely sure you've got it adjusted correctly. One or two flushes is not sufficient!
Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.
These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.
Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.
You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.
Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.
A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.
Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.
On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.
Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.
follow this steps and fix it.
Adjust or replace a flush handle:
Remove the cover from the toilet tank (the higher part at the back of the toilet). If the handle is loose, tighten the locknut with a wrench. If the nut won't budge, apply penetrating oil and let it set before removing.
Unhook the chain from the trip lever and slide the trip lever, with the handle attached, through the hole in the tank.
Soak the handle threads in vinegar for an hour or so to remove mineral deposits, then scrub clean with an old toothbrush.
Reinstall the assembly, tighten the locknut and adjust the lift chain (see below).
Adjust the lift chain:
If the handle must be held down while the toilet is flushing, the chain may be too long. Shorten it by hooking the upper end through a different trip lever, or use long-nose pliers to open and remove some chain links. Alternately, replace the chain with a new one.
Some flush assemblies have a lift wire instead of a chain. If the wire binds against its guide, flushing is impaired. Loosen the guide with a screwdriver, then adjust it so that the flush valve falls freely onto its seat.
Lift up the back of your tank on the commode. There is a plastic float inside connected to a metal arm which has a chain connected to your flush handle. The chain probably came off.
Take off the top lid and look at the flush handle mechanism. You'll see a not that holds it onto the tank. Tighten the nut so it is snug. Don't overtighten it or you could crack the tank. Next inspect the chain that goes between the end of the flush handle rod and the flapper valve. It should lift the flapper all the the way up when you operate the handle.
check handle to ensure no tension is on the flapper chain when not being flushed. check flapper to ensure positive seal to flush valve. check water level to ensure not overflowing into flow valve. if that's the case, lower water height.
then if still doesn't work, change flapper,
all else fails, change flush valve.
good luck,
steve
Hi, it appears you have a defected relief valve. you can try one solution. lift the handle on the relief valve and let some water out. sometimes that can flush out materials thats blocking the stem in the valve. if it's still leaking it must be replace.
If this doesn’t work for you please write back.Thanks,
Have you tried loosening the bolt on the back of the handle just a little bit?
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