My pressure washer runs for a good ten minutes, then it shuts itself down. I thought it might of been the ignition coil, which i just replaced and the problem is still the same. Any ideas why this is happening? Thanks!

I would start by getting a can of carburetor cleaner and have it 'at the ready' and try the 'start, run stall, start run stall' operation again. Only THIS time, once the engine begins to stall, give it a couple of quick shots of the cleaner into the air filter to see if it stays running on the cleaner.

If it does, then it's still a fuel problem. If it doesn't, then it probably an ignition problem. I would be sort of leaning towards the ignition coil getting weak. The reason I'm saying that is your statement about it running (I'm assuming cold start) for at first, 10 minutes then it stalls. Start it again and it runs for a couple of minutes and stalls again.

This could possibly be from the coil getting warm/hot and not producing the needed spark. After a 10 minute run it simply gets too hot and stalls the engine. After the next restart, the coil is already warm from the engine and so it don't take as long for the coil to get hot and stall the engine again.

Hope this makes sense and helps you out.

If your oil is too low or even a little bit low or if your machine is sitting on an incline, it will start and run until the oil is dispersed within the motor. Spreading the little amount of oil that is in there all around the inside of the motor would then reduce the amount of oil that is "sensed" by the "low-oil safety shutoff" switch, which would then shut down the engine. Its possible that your "low-oil sensor switch" is bad. You can test it by unplugging it. Just look for a wire that runs from your ignition switch or ignition coil to a sensor mounted on the engine block somewhere. Usually, it just unplugs right at the sensor. Simply unplug it and crank the engine and if it keeps running, then you know you have a bad switch (if you've topped off the oil, of course!).

Not enough water VOLUME and pressure to supply the pump with a steady flow of water. Water is cavatating (adding air to the water) and the piston is heating up and jambing. Try using a larger size hose diameter and a shorter hose to supply the pump.

check your spider webb on top of your intake its a piece that shall cost u about 100.$

did you try bypassing the cycling t-stat also?

Try replacing the ignition module insied the the distributor

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you replace the ignition coil. If the ignition coil gets hot the car may stall or may not start right away till it cools down. The ignition coil is surely faulty and replacement is surely necessary.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

The power for the shutoff relay actually comes from a secondary winding on the ignition coil itself. Why the enging would shut the fuel pump off is that as the engine ran for a while the coil gets warm and then breaks down or opens up the circuit for the fuel shutoff relay. Fixed by replacing $85.00 coil.

You have a bad piston

check the pressure replace valve or a bypass valve