Hot HSS25IFMMW Part of my main control board was burnt. The affected area is between J1 and the power resistor. What is causing the the circuit board to overheat and burnt? Where can I find a replacement board?

your thermistors are way out of range even at that temperature you say,put each thermistor in a glass of ice water for 5 minutes,then remove the J1 connector from the main board and check with an ohm meter set on 20k ohm between the thermistors common terminal #5 and the other pin terminals all thermistors tested this way should be about 16k ohms when tested this way,if not replace them

On something like this you have 3 components that could cause this symptom. The touch pad, display & main control board. The main control board should provide 12 volts DC to the touch pad & display boards. Test pins J1-2 to J1-1, J4-2 to J1-1 & J5-1 to J1-1 should all have 12 volts DC.

I've seen a few of these and the easiest fix is to replace both the blower motor speed controller/resistor and the wiring harness connector. I've tried fixing the connector but the repairs don't last because of the heat generated at the connector if everything isn't just right. You can purchase the connector, which comes with color coded pigtail wires attached, from the dealer and it's a fairly easy and permanent fix. Hope this helps and good luck!

Let us use a bit of logic to resolve this... I have an Axiom but it would be a lot of screws to take out to get to the part... so let us think about this. The resistor value starts with a "1" and we know it is 5% tolerance (gold). we know the resistor burnt up with likely 5 volts on it... Value could be 1000 ohms, however the voltages present (12 volts max) would NOT have burned up a resistor of 1000 ohms. The USB area is mostly 5 volts and across 100 ohms is only a quarter watt... not enough to really burn up a resistor... First thing is to MEASURE that the resistor s open... in spite of being burned, it MAY still be OK... these resistors now usually either open or remain close to their value. The resistor ALSO may be a fusible resistor intended to act as a fuse... Is the resistor open or not? is it near a resistance with a "1" as the first digit? If it is not open I suspect it is not all of the problem. In that case, look for a burned circuit trace on the board. If it is open, then MEASURE the voltage across the resistor with the power applied. If you find 5 volts, then it MIGHT be a 10 ohm used to limit the USB current to 500ma. Get back to me with your findings... I have unraveled many of these things...

First of all, it is very unlikely that a resistor "burns out" for being defective itself. Usually they are designed to run around 50% of their rated wattag. So they can get hot to the touch but are not over stressed. Therefore, it is more likely that you have something else that caused excessive current to go thru he resistor. So the point is that you can replace the resistor and more than likely it will fail again. You should start with a schematice of the circuit and look for components that could fail in a shorted condition and therefore cause excessive current to go thru the resistor. A schematic will tell you the value of the resistor. I am guessing that it is on a PC board and is therefore "surface mount" style. Look for defects in the board trace causing shorts. A good place to start. Hope you find it. Lots of Luck.

Pull the refrig out , and remove the back panel . Is the fan that cools the compressor working ? Is the coil roll clean ? If the fan is not working , then the problem is probably the main control board . Behind the 8"X10" panel , above the compressor area . Remove the cover , and look for a burnt resistor , just to be safe . If this fan does not work , then the coils and the refrigerant line running between the doors , will get very hot .

If it turns off going standby, and led is on, then it is on protect, and remaining parts must be tested.

If it turns off completely, and you can restart it with the On button, then the board with controls is faulty.
If it does switch off completely (no light), and only comes back on after unplugging power cord for a while, then there is a different internal fault that is not starting protection circuit , but causing shutdown.
After double checking the PSU board, you will have to test a couple of ICs on main controller board, the deflection circuit and flyback transformer. Check also for broken solder joints and thaces of shorts on all boards and components (eg. burnt areas, blown capacitors), as a short can potentially cause sudden shut down.

Here schematics.

Here all parts for your TV.

Do you have the schematic for this TV?

Maybe High Voltage Transformer, you can have a board replaced easier than buying a new set.

I have a Phillips 42FD9954/17S and every time I try to turn it on I also get the power red light blinking and sometimes it will try to turn on with a bunch of clicking noises and it will be green for a while then turn red. What I do and its very weird but works, put a blow dryer on hot and blow it under the tv on the side of the power button for about 10 minutes and it will turn on. I took it apart and there is a heat sink that if i put the blow dryer directly onto it on heat it turns on in less than a minute. Can someone tell me how I can fix this heat sink? I cant take it off. I want to put some thermal compound to see if that works. Give it a try I promise it will work. The Red Light has to be on put the heat on it and then press the power button, if you hear it clicking and green then back to red you are almost there. Keep putting heat on it and it will turn on.