Power Cap or Deep Cycle Battery?
your amplifier has the following specs:
Output Power at 12V:
1 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 400W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
Output Power at 14.4V:
1 x 300W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 600W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
a .5 farad cap should work fine for 12v applications, a .75 will work fine for 14.4v applications. If you plan on upgrading the stereo system in the future, you should probably just pick up a 1 farad now and save trouble later.
when mounting the cap, mount it as close to the sub as possible. i recommended a deep cycle battery in an earlier solution due to the power handling requirements for the amp and speaker combo, any time you are working on a competition or semi-competition setup, you will want to isolate your audio system as much as possible from your vehicle's main electronics. i normally use a deep cycle battery if it's going to be a comp/street combo as you can sit at the lake and jam all night without killing your main battery. for comp only use, i stick to optima batteries, they seem to work well and can dump loads of amperage pretty quick.
if you go the dual battery route, you will want to buy a battery isolator to make sure the two batteries are independent of each other.
hope this helps,
Nov 19, 2007 |
Kenwood KAC-X401M Car Audio Amplifier