Mavt634 cold water comes out the hot water inlet connection

check to see if the screen is clogged were water hooks up to back of michine

All top suspend tub washers drop down when they fill with water. And they rise again when they have pumped the water out. This is normal.
What is not normal is water not coming in.'

check following:
Water is turned on
Remove inlet hose and run water to see if it is blocked.
Clean the inlet filters.
If you hear a buzz but no water goes in the inlet valve needs replacing.
If yu use only cold water try swapping the cold hose onto the Hot inlet. Then select Warm Wash.
Then only turn on the Cold Tap.
This will allow you to fill the machine and do a wash.
Watch out though when it comes to the Rinse position......some machines only do a cold rinse, and because you have swapped the hose over to hot it will not fill to rinse the clothes. Until you can get a Tech to do the repair you can just use either a bucket to add cold water for the rinse or use the garden hose to fill the tub with cold water for the rinse.
Have yu got all that?

the cold water valve is stuck shut inside washer.
Servicing Water Inlet ValvesIf the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:





Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.

Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.

Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.

Your problem is either a clogged COLD fill valve or a bad water fill valve. Turn the water off. Remove the COLD hose from the WASHER. Check the filter screen inside the valve for sediment. If you find sediment,remove the screen and clean it. Replace the screen and turn the water back on. If you do not find sediment on the screen,replace the water valve.

Servicing Water Inlet ValvesIf the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:



©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
If an inlet valve is faulty, check the water connection and the
valve screens. Try gently tapping the solenoids;
if this doesn't work, replace the inlet valve assembly.
Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.

Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.

Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.

Troubleshooting Water Leaks

Water leaks in a washer are often difficult to trace. There are many possibilities to look for. The problem could be a loose connection, a broken hose, a cracked component, or a defective seal. It could also be a hole in the tub. If a hole in the tub is the problem, it's usually best to replace the washer.

Most leaks can be eliminated by tightening water connections and replacing deteriorated components. To stop a leak:

Step 1: Check the lid seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.

Step 2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 4: Check the drain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.

Step 6: Check the splash guard. Tighten connections or replace.

Step 7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.

Step 8: Check the outlet hose to drain. Tighten connections or replace hose.

Step 9: Check the water pump, using the procedures that follow.

Servicing Water Inlet ValvesIf the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:



©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
If an inlet valve is faulty, check the water connection and the
valve screens. Try gently tapping the solenoids;
if this doesn't work, replace the inlet valve assembly.
Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.

Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.

Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.

If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

1. Air gap device: It is a small device found on most washers to prevent the wash water from from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either midway along or at the the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water inlet valve It is usually made of a translucent plastic. If it is deformed or cracked, you need to replace it.
2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it is broken, it can cause a leak.
3. Inlet spout: Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If broken or loose, it can cause a leak.

During the drain and spin only:

1. A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Check the entire hose and correct any problem you can find.

All the time:

1. Hot and cold water fill hoses: Check the hot and cold hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten or replace it.
2. Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Open the the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center.
3. Pump: You can probably see the leak when the tub is full of water. If it leaks, replace it.
4. Outer tub: Steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split or be punctured. Consult a qualified appliance technician if it is the culprit.
   

Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.
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The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.