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Have you squared the fence to the blade/table. If the table is true to the blade, your mitre slot should also be. You can then squre your fence to the
slot
There should be some screws on the bottom side of the fence that allow you to make adjustments. Loosen then slightly then set the fence to 90 degrees & then tighten them.
Check to make sure the arbor set screw is not loose. The bearings may have shifted when you moved it. I recently rebuilt an old 66. Repositioning the bearings and tightening the set screw could be all it needs.
These lightweight saws can be somewhat problematic in this respect. They have a tendency to come out of adjustment as they are moved about. First, make sure the blade you're using is true and has little runout. You can check this using a micrometer, or simply marking a tooth and spinning the blade by hand (power unplugged) to see if the blade runs true or wavers in its path. If the blade is warped or bent the problem is probably there rather than the table. Second, check to make sure the fence is properly adjusted, parallel to the mitre slots. If the fence is out of adjustment, the path of the material relative to the blade will not be parallel, and this can cause poor cuts. Third, hope it's one of the first two. If not, set a day or weekend aside to work on the saw. Get some good light and flip it over on a table or horses so you can see what you're doing. Have the parts diagram and owner's manual on hand. You'll need to loosen the bolts that hold the table top against the saw mechanism beneath the top, and shift the saw relative to the top in the desired direction to correct for the out-of true path of the blade relative to the table top. On some lighter saws like yours, this entails re-adjusting most of the saw mechanisms to run true, as they are frequently independently bolted to the underside of the table and not unified construction that moves as a single piece. You have to shift the saw slightly in the required direction, check the runout of the blade, then repeat until you get it right. If you're skilled and you don't mind standing on your head, you can do this with the saw in position. There are many excellent articles online that detail this procedure if you search google for "table saw tune up", so I won't elaborate on the details. Try to find one that has a saw similar to yours as an example. Good luck.
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The guide is called a fence. The fence should be positioned to the right of the blade. When using the fence, the largest part of the board goes between the blade and fence. Fences are typically have some relief toward the end, so you don't get the blade cutting on it's way down, and then cutting again on it's way up.
Check and see if one of the guides is out of alignment or if the blade is worn. Either one can cause the problem since you already checked the tension and guides. If the guides are worn they won't hold the blade true.
1) Check the alignment of the arbor -- it's possible the arbor or arbor nut are not completely true. Detailed instructions are here: http://woodgears.ca/saw_arbor/index.html
2) Check the alignment of the blade to the miter slots. If you aligned only the fence to the miter slots, it's possible the fence may not be aligned with the blade if the blade is out of alignment.
3) You said you checked the alignment of the fence and splitter, but these are the most common causes for the problem you're having. You might want to re-check the alignment of both, using a different method. Try these methods: http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/09/06/table-saw-alignment-for-005/
Be methodical and follow the directions for alignment closely. The extra attention you put into aligning your saw will pay you back many times over in clean, accurate cuts.
No. Unplug saw remove saw blade grasp shaft that saw blade was on wiggle back and forth. Should not be too much play. After 10 years motor bearings are proably worn. Easy to replace
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