Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Heating element need to know how to replace heating element in dryer

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  • ruudd Mar 17, 2008

    dryer will run on air dry fine, but add heat and it will shut off after a few minutes

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    I NEED TO REPLACE HEATING ELEMENT

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  • Expert
  • 131 Answers

IF you have the dryer pictured above,

You'll have to remove the console (screws behind covers on endcaps.) Then flip the console up and remove three screws holding the top panel down. Slide the top panel toward you and remove. Disconnect light and door switches (top front left.) Remove the toe panel (putty knife on two tabs top left and right.) Open the door and remove the lint screen. Close the door and remove the metal triangular box around the lint screen. Remove the screws at each corner of the front panel. Lift and rotate the front panel slightly clockwise to get the basket off the rollers. Reach under the basket to disconnect the belt from the motor. Lift the belt and the basket out of the machine. You can now reach the heater on the bottom left.

Before you do anything, unplug the machine, remove the lint screen, toe panel, and metal box and check the white plastic thermal fuse on top of the blower housing with an ohm meter. It should read less than one ohm.

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: Newer Whirlpool Dryer Heat Element keeps breaking

  • clean out the dryer vent make sure hose behind dryer not pinched close ck the temp comeing out bac k dryer should be around 160

Posted on Mar 06, 2008

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: Cabrio Electric Dryer Heating Element

have you checked the high temp thermostat?

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cant find heating element for kenmore 80 series dryer

it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: How do you replace the heating element on kenmore

Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

  • 552 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel DEGX2 Dryer. Need heating element changed?

Hello,

The video below explains how to open and repair a fisher paykel dryer.

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

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Posted on Mar 06, 2011

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

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I have a Bosch WTL5410 dryer, which has no heat going to the otherwise functioning tumbler. Do you know where I could purchase another heating element and where I can get instructions regarding the...


Open front panel, remove heat exchanger and clean.
Unplug the dryer. remove the panel in the back of the dryer that covers the heating element. ( the inner panel). On top of the heating element you will see a thermal sensor with a small red button on it. Thats the manual reset button To test if the heating element is working properly you can disconnect the wires from the sensor and clip the connectors together . Plug the dryer back in and start it. pay attention to the heating element. It should begin to glow shortly. if it doesn't then your heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.

Unplug the dryer. Connect the wires back to the thermal sensor. Plug the dryer back in. Before you start the dryer, press the red button on the switch. This is your reset button. Start the dryer. If the heating element doesn't come on and dryer doesn't heat, then you need to replace that sensor.

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Hi, The element has broke and shorted out against the metal on the dryer. You will need to replace the element. If this is a rear access panel dryer, here is how to get to the ele UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer back in and test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
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Might I suggest this site if you are a do it your self.
http://www.appliancerepair.net/dryer.htm

You have to raise the top take off the front and the tub should come out. Wala the heating element. Hope this helped, if not let us know.

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first you need to make sure the heating element is the problem dryers will run on 110 but will not heat with out 220 first you need to confirm that you have 220 then let me know what you find hold my rating till we are done and don't buy a heating element yet

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