Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer
IF you have the dryer pictured above,
You'll have to remove the console (screws behind covers on endcaps.) Then flip the console up and remove three screws holding the top panel down. Slide the top panel toward you and remove. Disconnect light and door switches (top front left.) Remove the toe panel (putty knife on two tabs top left and right.) Open the door and remove the lint screen. Close the door and remove the metal triangular box around the lint screen. Remove the screws at each corner of the front panel. Lift and rotate the front panel slightly clockwise to get the basket off the rollers. Reach under the basket to disconnect the belt from the motor. Lift the belt and the basket out of the machine. You can now reach the heater on the bottom left.
Before you do anything, unplug the machine, remove the lint screen, toe panel, and metal box and check the white plastic thermal fuse on top of the blower housing with an ohm meter. It should read less than one ohm.
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Posted on Mar 06, 2008
it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.
If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.
Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
The video below explains how to open and repair a fisher paykel dryer.
Posted on Mar 06, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 01, 2013 | GE DSXH47EGWW Electric Dryer
Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer
Mar 24, 2010 | Bosch Axxis WTL 5410 Electric Dryer
Jan 01, 2010 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer
Jul 15, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
May 16, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers
Mar 12, 2008 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Jan 25, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer
133 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: