A little printed compartment part with marking "A016" that is 1,6cm to the east of upper right corner of southbridge (Intel chipset) has burnt down. Motherboard doesn't work at all. I have some encrypted files on my PC and really need to start the system at least to decode and save this files. What would you recommend me to do?
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Re: Burnt down printed compartment part
Your mboard is killed.The chipset is the most difficult thing to handle with and if you have change in color in the board (normal color to a black color) its all over. You remove your HDD and get the inside data by fixin on to another machine.
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the drain is in the right rear or freezer and the upper right rear corner of frig . it then goes through the back to a metal drain line and down to the compresser and into the condsate pan .. ( east to find .. ) the diag of frig does not show this .. .. mm hope this helped .
When you click on Print in the upper right hand corner drop down, you usually get a printer panel where you can make choices (number of pages, etc.). You also have a button that might say Preferences or Properties and if you click it you see a choice to print in black & white or not in black & white (which is color) so take the check mark out of this choice and see if your color works.
If ruled lines are misaligned or a printout is unsatisfactory,Print Head Alignment is required.
Steps for Aligning the Print Head.
1) Press [Menu] repeatedly until [Maintenance] appears.
2) Press [Maintenance] repeatedly until <P> appears.
3) Press [Black] or [Color].
The machine print the head alignment sheet.
4) Beginning from column A on the printout, enter checkmarks in the patterns that have the most solid image.
5) Load the checked sheet on the Platen Glass.
When loading the checked sheet, place the front side down, and align the upper left corner of the sheet with the alignment mark on the lower right corner of the Platen Glass.
6) Press [Maintenance] repeatedly until <U> appears,
7) Press [Black] or [Color].
The machine scans the pattern and aligns the Print Head automatically.
Note : If you select <L>in step 2, the machine prints the current Print Head Alignment setting.
Yes, for my 2008 3.5L Highlander, tools were required. First, make sure you get the right replacement engine air filter: there is a different part for the 3.3L and 3.5L engine. Next, as you pointed out, clips aren't used. There are two 10mm nuts that you need to loosen. They are captive (they won't fall out when you loosen them all the way). The one more in the front of the engine compartment is straightforward (once you get a 10mm socket wrench), but the one in the back is in a rather tight spot. I would suggest getting a long (6-8" shaft) 10mm nut driver. I managed to do it with a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive and some determination. Also note that there is a wiring harness clipped to the top of a sensor adjacent to the air filter compartment; unclip it after you loosen the nuts. It works a little like a phone jack (RJ11) clip or a ethernet (RJ45) clip. Once the nuts are loose and the clip is off you lift up on the large black plastic housing marked 'see owners manual for air cleaner change' or something to that effect. (By the way my owners manual covered NONE of this.) The housing will tilt up and backwards towards the middle of the engine compartment. It won't come all the way off since it is attached to a few other things. Pull out the old filter. While it is out, you may want to wipe out the bottom of the filter compartment if you see any debris.
Note carefully that one corner is a "key"; it makes sure you install the replacement in the right orientation. Look at all four corners of the replacement part; one should look a little different. Toyota helpfully marks the replacement part with UP and FRONT. My Wix replacement had no mark whatsoever. Put the "key" corner on the corner that is more towards the front of the filter compartment and on the right side. Now put the filter cover back on. Note that one of the "hinges" goes into a socket that pops off when you remove the cover. Line that up first, then line up the rest of the cover, especially where the two captive nuts are going to go. While pushing down on the filter cover, tighten the captive nuts.
If you open the door and take a flashlight, light in the front/middle of the brewing unit. You will see a little screw, take a screwdriver and loosen it, bend little on the little plastic above where the screw was and pull out the brewing unit. When you have the brewing unit out then you need to reset the machine and brewing unit.
To reset the machine you have to turn off your machine, open the door. Look in the down left corner, you will see a hole, look in the middle of the machin you see another hole and in the upper right corner. put a screwdriver or similarly in the left corner and in the middle of the machine, turn on the machine and put another screwdriver in the upper right corner. hold it in place to the machine not get any noise more.
To reset the brewing unit, first put the plastic back again (that one you loosen with the screw first). If you look back on the backsida of the brewing unit, in the middle you will see a plastic that looks lika a handle, force it down and you will see all the other parts will move around little. Turn it to you can see the little mark on the front goes to the N mark.
To solve the faded prints you need to clean the printhead twice by going to the software and click the "?" mark icon on the upper right corner of the software window and then under General Links select Maintenance then choose Clean Printhead - do it at least thrice to unclog the printhead system. Then try making prints... If still cannot solve call Kodak Technical Support.
remove the hard drive and insert into another box as a slave drive then save all your data that you need to either the machines hard drive then save to a usb stick or cd/dvd disc, as far as repairing the mobo forget it unless you are an electronics wiz as it is very difficult to replace even the largest parts on a mobo as the board has many layers.