I need a new thermostat (or is it a safety cut-out) for the heater element on a Zanussi 910R

not likely the timer but it does control the heat circuit. suspect the fan-air flow is being blocked and the elements are cycling on a safety thermostat instead of the operating thermostat. check for blocked or restricted vent and plenty of air coming out the vent when running. check for a flapper on the vent not opening or only open part way.

All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.







The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

It is possible the heater element is faulty or a thermostat problem.
You need to test the element and stat's with a meter to check for continuity.

The reset button or ECO (emergency cut-off) is a safety device.
The ECO trips and cuts off power to entire water heater when it detects temperatures over 150 degrees.
This prevents overheating and eventual explosion of water heater.

You have 1 of 3 problems:
a) Factory-installed insulation and cover have been removed and thermostat is receiving cool air and not reading correct temperature
b) Bad thermostat. Thermostat is sticking in ON position -or- thermostat is misreading temperature.
c) Element is shorted to ground near center of element and not tripping breaker, and the element is heating off 120 circuit that is flowing through ground wire.

Steps you can take:
1) Inspect water heater and see if factory insulation is present behind each cover.
2) Turn off power.
Disconnect ground wire for a couple days and see if problem persists.
If problem stops, then test elements and replace bad one. See below for how to test element.
Caution: Do not touch this water heater with ground wire disconnected unless power is OFF
3) Replace thermostats and see if problem persists.
For around $25, you can buy generic upper-and-lower thermostats at Lowes or hardware store > then replace the thermostat(s) and see if problem persists.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

Problem should be resolved.

4) If problem continues after steps above
You will need to test water heater parts to track down the exact problem: for example a shorted wire.
You need a inexpensive multimeter from Radio Shack, and the steps are simple, and afterward you will know nearly everything about electric water heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

How to test element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Turn off power.
Remove both wires from lower element.
Test across both screws with a continuity tester.


The continuity tester has a battery and when light comes on, it says the circuit is complete.
Test1) Test across both screws on lower element with continuity tester.
If the light comes on then the element is good so far, but element has to pass one more test.
Test2) Test each screw on element to any bare metal part of water heater.
If the light does NOT come on with the second test, then element is good.
Light ON first test. Light OFF second test. Then element is probably good.
This is not 100% fail-proof test without a meter but it is a good indicator.

If you are still having a problem, answer back and we'll give you more details.

The reset button or ECO (emergency cut-off) is a safety device.
The ECO trips and cuts off power to entire water heater when it detects temperatures over 150 degrees.
This prevents overheating and eventual explosion of water heater.

The ECO will trip for 4 possible reasons:
1) Bad thermostat. Water temperature inside tank exceeds 150 degrees F because thermostat is sticking in ON position, and thermostat does not turn off element correctly.
2) Loose wire inside or near upper thermostat that causes ECO to sense higher temperature
3) Bad element shorted to ground near center of element, and short does not cause breaker to trip
4) Factory-installed insulation and cover are removed from water heater >>> cooler air causes thermostat to read wrong temperature, and thermostat keeps heating water inside tank

Steps you can take:
First thing is to check if factory-insulation-and-cover are present.
Next look for signs of burning at or near screw terminals. Tighten loose wire if found.
Especially check the lower element screw terminals.
Take a photograph of the parts so you can see the parts larger on your computer, and compare parts more easily when buying new parts.
Next most likely suspect are the thermostats.
For around $22, you can buy generic upper-and-lower thermostats at Lowes or hardware store > then replace the thermostat(s) and see if problem persists.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If problem continues after steps above
You will need to test water heater parts to track down the exact problem:
You need a inexpensive multimeter from Radio Shack, and the steps are simple, and you will know everything about an electric water heater afterward.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Answer back if you encounter something not covered above, and I will help.

MY dryer has no heat
** UNPLUG a dryer before attempting ANY repairs. Lethal!
A dryer heater is controlled by the timer, a thermostat and a high-heat safety switch. The thermostat and safety switch are mounted on the housing around the heater.
Most likely - If the heater is blown, a visual inspection inside the heater housing will see a loose heater wire.
Next likely - Thermostat problems occur. I replace the thermostat and high-heat safety if either are suspect. Cheap, easy fix.
Least likely - Controller failure. This can be expensive ($80 - $400) so consider if you want to spend the money. A controller is actually fairly easy to change. Buy a new knob as you are likely to break it without experience and special tools.

This tutorial will show you how to check your Zanussi element and how to replace your Zanussi cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating

1. Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Zanussi manual.
2. If you're Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
3. When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

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The problem is usually a contactor or relay. The thermostat usually doesn't directly control the elements. Follow the wiring diagram or look at the wires from the thermostat. they usually go to a small box and then to the elements The contacts may sometimes stick or always stick. This part is a lot cheaper than the thermostat. Another problem is a burned out element. (Usually the bake element) This can short to ground and not let it turn off. When the elements are on they should glow evenly all over with no hot spots. Look at the broil element also. It is usually at least part way on during baking.

Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.

Mantona, you're on the right track. Your heater terminals are large, insulated and poke through the tub facing downward. To test this, remove one of the wires connected to the terminal, then check OHMS. If this is what you did, you don't have to do that again. Elements rarely fail, the problem most likely resides in the hi-limit thermostat. You know where the element is, now follow one of the wires back toward the control panel. One of the element wires will pass through the thermostat (in series) before going to the control. The thermostat is mounted tightly to the bottom of the tub, touching it to monitor temperature. When you find it, remove one of the wires (there are 2) and check OHMS. You should read ~1 Ohm, if you read infinity, you found the problem. (You can verify your finding by removing both wires from it and connect them together. Then run a wash load to check the heater. Don't leave it in this condition! The thermostat is a safety device and should not be permanently bypassed! If your test of the t'stat proves that it's OK, you'll have to test it with power on and running. I can walk you through this if needed. Let us know how it turns out.