The wire from the off- low - high switch to the top of the element burned into. there are 2 small diode looking parts spliced into the wire this is where the problem happened.
what are these?
do i need them?
if so where can i get them?
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Re: holmes tower quartz
The diode-looking parts sound like thermal fuses. Typical thermal fuses resemble a 22-caliber bullet with the pointed end colored differently from the body. If they have failed, an ohm meter or continuity meter will tell you. Yes, they are a safety feature which should be kept.
Try your local appliance parts/repair store. Take the old ones in to compare. You will also need some crimp-on connectors to attach them to the wire ends.
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Several things could cause this, and I have found they all involve accessing the heating element to check for a break in the element, lint blocking air flow so that the high limit trips or broken or burned off wires. I have made temporary fixes to heating elements using a bare chrome high-temp **** splice with the parted ends passing each other in the splice, until your new element arrives. Keith L.
The most common probem is burned wires going to the heater on the top of the oven cavity. Typically you will see the coating on the wire close to the heater all cracked and bare. You can usually just cut the wire back an inch and pull some slack up and reconnect the wire and you will be good. In some cases the wire will be burned to much and the whole wire will need to be changed. Any oven repair shop will sell you these high temp wires. DO NOT use regular wires they MUST be high temp rated.
Here is some other things to check if the heater wires look good.
COMPONENTS IR Element The IR element - a dual coil type heater - is located in the bottom of the oven cavity. The first coil is the heating coil. The second is the IR thermocouple wire. The heating coil outputs 3000 watts at 208 VAC. The heating coil's resistance is 14.4 ohms at room temperature. The thermocouple coil is a Type K thermocouple with a resistance of approximately 20 ohms at the splices located approximately 6 inches from the heater and 40 ohms measured at the extension wires at the I/O control board. The IR element is controlled via the K5 solid state relay and the IR thermocouple via the I/O control board.
Also try this
1. Verify the high-limit thermostat is not tripped. o If high-limit is tripped, reset and allow the oven to warm up. o If high-limit is not tripped, follow the instructions below. High-limit thermostat is not tripped. Place a small water load in a microwave/heat-resistant container (approx. 275 ml) in the oven and place the oven in TEST MODE. Press the MGTRON key to actuate the microwave. While holding down the MGTRON key, watch the CC and IR temperatures. If either temperature bounces substantially, there may be a noise (EMI) problem. To correct this problem, examine the wire routing for each thermocouple wire. If the wires are routed near any high voltage components such as the magnetron or high voltage transformers, reroute the wires. If this does not correct the problem, verify that both magnetrons are securely mounted.
your electronic fuse for the control panel probably opened,to save the electronics it should be on or near the board replace it with the right size/amperage fuse its critical, before doing so do a check of all wires and anything else that looks suspect
Just clip the diode out (pay attention to the white band around the end) take the diode to radio shack and match it's size physically.Then put it back in using regular electrical solder (rosin core) put the band on the diode facing the same way it came out
its not a diode its a fuse a high temp fuse . there is a number on it with a "c" after it thats the temp it opens ..... you can jump it out with a small bare wire just to test your elements and thermostat . if the thermostat does not cycle this fuse will blow . do not leave it jumped out , this is just for testing . find one on line with the number . and high temp fuse ... good luck
You may have either a bad thermostat control or wiring to the heat element burned in 2. Are you getting power coming out of the control switch when it is on high. If you are, then the element or wiring is bad. If you aren't, then more than likely it is in the control switch. Let me kmow how you do.
I'm going to presume that your brewer is a VPS series pour-over brewer. This problem can be caused by several things, so I'll list the most common ones.
1) The on/off switch for the lower warmer could be burnt out.This switch also operates the heating element.
2) The high limit thermostat quite offen blows on the older VPS brewers. this is a small unit held down to the top of the tank and has 2 wires voming to it.
3) Look for burnt-off wires. These models sometimes burn off wires on the top of the heating element.
4) If none of these work, then your problem will be your heating element itself.
Parts for these models are readily available from your local Bunn repair shop.
Very simple to install the replacement element. Insert one end of the element into the bottom receptacle on either side, press the element down (it's spring-loaded), then slide the top of the element into the center opening of the top receptacle, push to appropriate side (the side of receptacle, same as the bottom), then release. Then do the same with the other element (if both are out).