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Vintage Kenwood Receiver Kr-9600 Sound cut out

70'S model Kenwood KR-9600 Worked on at least 5 times for same reason in the last 30 years. Sound cuts out either one side or the other. Turn it up or wiggle numerous controls might get it back for a few minutes. From the repairs it lasts for a while but comes back. I bought this beauty from a friend in 1982 & It will go to the grave with me. I have a cheesy electronics degree, would old solder joints need heating?

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 979 Answers

SOURCE: KR-X1000 Power Problems

Sorry, no freebies from what I see online. But, when you power up, does it play before it shuts down? This will help me formulate a better answer for you...accordianman

Posted on Oct 25, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Yamaha Receiver R-700 Input & Recout switches cut out!

I have 2 of the same receivers. One works perfect and the other had the same problem as you describe. The faulty one I brought to work to use. Since I wasn't planning on recording anything I desoldered both swithces and swapped them. The REC OUT switch is a 6 pos SW, and the INPUT is only a 5 pos SW, but it works. Now my sound doesn't cut out any more and I have a receiver for work.

Mark

Posted on Dec 26, 2007

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: Kenwood Receiver KR-V127R - left channel not working

Select an input that is not connected, for example select CD with no cables going to the CD input on the backside. Will you then hear equal humming on both channels? If so, the amp stage is ok,
and the problem lies in the signal level circuitry.
Open the cover and use a plastic (insulated) stick to touch suspectible cables and components. When the sound returns, you've found the cause. Resolder or reseat the component/cable/card.
Use the insulated stick, NOT your fingers!

Posted on Jan 01, 2008

  • 319 Answers

SOURCE: problem with playing my Kenwood KR-X1000

Unit apparently has problems. Check/replace batteries in remocom

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

tech48
  • 624 Answers

SOURCE: I have vintage PIONEER SX1010

This could be solder connections that are cold or cracked, you can look for them on the power supply board and the amplifier boards. Sometimes it is not an easy thing to remove the boards, but usually you can at least pull them out far enough to solder on them. Just make sure that you re-connect everything just as it was when you took it apart. The amplifier boards are connected to the heat sinks. If my memory serves me right, you will have 2 amplifier boards, one for each channel. The heat sinks have short fins on them and those two boards will have lots of bad solder connections. The power supply is normally not as bad, but is worth checking out. You may be able to see the bottom of that board without removing it. Just make sure you take the bottom panel off of the unit and, of coarse, the top cover. The power supply board is where the power transformer has it's secondary wires connected to it and you will have 2 very large capacitors on it.

Be very careful when you solder on these boards, make sure you have no solder bridges (where one solder pad overflows onto another close by), it is a very easy thing to do by accident even for the best of technicians. You will find lots of solder connections that look grainy and are not shiny silver in color, and some with a ring crack around them. Make sure that every single one of those are reflowed with solder.

You should also clean the controls with a good contact cleaner made for electronic switches and relays. Start with the power switch, that could even be the cause of your entire problem. Spray or get drops of the contact cleaner inside the switch and then work the switch by turning it on and off, over and over again. Sometimes it needs to be done several times. You may even need to open the switch by taking it apart, to clean it good. Be careful, sometimes they are not too easy to get back together again. If you take it apart, look at the contact that it has and you will see some black residue. That needs to be removed with some contact cleaner and a burnishing tool. Or you can scrape it with a small sharp pick like a dental pick or a very small file to run across it if you can not find a burnishing tool.

Then you should clean all the other controls like the volume control, balance, treble, bass, speakers and even the function controls. You should not take those apart, they may never get back together again.

Once this is done, you should have your receiver working almost like new again. That is really the best you can hope for.

If you feel like this may be a bit more than you can do yourself, a service center would normally charge about $200 give or take about $25 to refurbish your receiver depending on the rates of the service center. Your old Pioneer receiver is well worth the high service cost, people who own them rarely give them up. Being one of those people yourself, you are in the position to understand why. Most other people just don't understand what it means to have such high quality equipment. After all, it has worked wonderfully for you for what, about 30 to 40 years? Try getting that out of anything made today, good luck with that!

If I can be any more help, just let me know by posting back on this thread.

Dave

p.s. Anything less than a "FixYa!" rating would lower my overall rating so I would prefer no rating at all if you do not believe I deserve a FixYa! rating. I only do this free help for people to earn a high rating, it is our only reward.

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Kenwood KR-A4010 Am/Fm Stereo Receiver. Every five seconds the sound fades in and out. Can anyone find a solution to this problem?

i have a kenwood kr-a4010 it works no sound in speakers

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

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