Question about Canon Sure Shot 80 Tele/Date 35mm Point and Shoot Camera

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Where can I get a manual for this 35 mm camera? Canon does not have one on line.

I settings on the dial on the back of this totally automatic point and shoot are missing and I can't figure out what they were were. I have noticed that one opens the lens, and before I put in the first roll of film, nothing seemed to control the auto flash. Now the auto flash doesn't work, and I have no idea what this little dial on the back can do to help, if anything. This is very specific to this particular camera. Please, no generic film use answers.

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The dial has six positions. If you rotate the dial fully clockwise, you are at the "Auto" position. In this position, the flash will fire if light is insufficient.
One click counterclockwise from this is "Auto with Redeye Reduction", and a preflash lamp will fire before the shutter to reduce redeye.
The next click counterclockwise is the "Off" position.
The next click counterclockwise is the "Flash On" position, and the flash will always fire with the shutter.
The next click counterclockwise is the "Flash Off" position, and the flash will not fire.
Full counterclockwise is the "Self Timer" position, and the shutter will fire 10 seconds after the button is depressed.

Posted on Apr 16, 2008

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If you had a compact camera it would say 10x zoom what is the equivilent in a 70mm -300mm tamron


A 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you'll get the result.

It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in "35 mm equivalent" is and judge by that, rather than relying on the "X" power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I've seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.

It's also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of "35 mm equivalent," where "35 mm" refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.

I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2x5.3 mm. (1/1.8") (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)

I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. "How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?" you might ask. It's because the sensor is only about 5x4 mm. (1/2.5")

I have a few Nikon DSLR's and - thankfully - they all have the same size sensor. They all have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon's, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the "35 mm equivalent" of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR's, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.

These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the "X" power of a zoom lens.

Bottom line...

Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.

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Send it in to canon for service. This is not a simple problem that can be fixed in this forum.

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1 Answer

Manual shooting mode problem.


The exposure compensation dial (at the back) doesn't work when you're in Manual. In Manual, you set the shutter speed and aperture to get an image with the amount of over- or under-exposure you need. In the view finder, the "exposure meter" at the bottom shows how much light there is where the lens is pointed. When it shows what you called "2-stops", its really underexposed. Thus your black images. You need to increase ISO, open the aperture and slow down the shutter speed (or a combination of these 3 options)

Set your camera to P or full-auto. Do the photos turn out ok? If they do, then there's nothing wrong with your camera and you just need practise on the Manual mode.

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