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Re: washer spinning issues
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean (refer manual). There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
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see this causes: It spins, but doesn't pump drain line is clogged fix it,some sock is inside, take pliers and remove, if you can you need to remove the agitator, the propeel of pump can be defective replace. It doesn't spin or pump frozen pulley pump replace It pumps, but the water returns improve the drain line. if mayor that 4 inch cut of the diference, is a lower install air/gap siphon break assembly
Possible that the belt is slipping and also there is some issue with the agitator as the gaps within seems to bring up the dirt or grease mix to the clothes. So it is important to remove the panel and check the play on the belt, replace if the play is high and check if the agitator bearings are worn out. If so the agitator assembly must be taken out and checked.
I have had this problem with two of my previous washers a top loader and front loader.Each time it was a faulty pump that drains the water from the tub after the wash cycle is complete. If the water does not drain from the tub the machine will not go to the spin cycle. Both of my washers were 5 or 6 years old when this occurred. If the washer is only 5 months old it should be under the manufactures warranty. Good Luck.
If a spin and drain problem you can pull the front off to see if perhaps a small item (ie. sock or like size item) is stuck between basket and tub or in the drain hose? If it is a wash time problem that would be another direction.
You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.
2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.
Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.
If the washer fills up with water and you hear the motor running but the agitator doesn’t move, the agitator coupling is the most likely problem. First pump the water out by turning the timer to spin. Once the water is out, turn the washer off. Now pull up on the agitator until it comes off (it may be hard to pull off). Now that the agitator is off, you can see the agitator coupling, reach down and try to turn the coupling. If the coupling turns freely, it is striped out and needs to be replaced.
my front load washer is leaving water after done spin cycle can still ring water out of clothing....water is draining from hose and is spinning somewhat strange...like its not going through rinse properly sorta like its repeatedly doing same cycle pattern...spins for lil, stops makes running noses...spins sum more....soapy clothing...its 5 years old..but first time use this month finally connected it...when took bottom off to check hose connection noticed control board looked lil warped and brownish colored but not as meant to be..maybe its burnt out?
The high speed spin of a front load washer should normally do a good job of getting squeezing out the water but if there is an oversudsing condition that makes it hard for the drain pump to operate then the suds and water will just stay there. First make sure there is no actual clog in the drain line then run a load with no soap or detergent and see what happens. It's always better to use a low suds detergent with this type of machine