I'm installing a new cooktop. My cooktop has three wires. Green, Red, Black. My power supply has 4 wires. White, Red, Black and Copper.
My previous cooktop had a ground copper connected to the white wire coming from the power supply.
Is it ok to connect the green from my new one to the white wire coming from the power supply or should I connect the green to the ground copper wire coming from the power supply and cap the white wire.
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Re: Connecting to ground or neutral
SOMETHING DOENST SOUND RIGHT ABOUT THAT AT ALL. i would contact an electrician, would not even want to venture a guess as to whats goin on . let alone advise to hook up a ground to a nuteral and cap the nuetral.theres somehtin up there . i would call in a pro on that one
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Hi, depending on your local electrical code:and I see that the unit is 240
Volts A.C., then RED=Power/Black=POWER(L1 &
L2)/WHITE="N"Neutral/and GREEN=SAFETY GROUND,on the new unit, then use
from the wall power BLACK = L1 and White= L2. then on the unit RED=L1
and BLACK=L2(either way you hook these 2 up there isn't a polarity
issue on these 2 wires) on the units hook-up/then use the BARE supply
wire as neutral and tie BOTH WHITE and GREEN from the unit together to
this BARE wire..
depending on your local electrical code:and I see that the unit is 240 Volts A.C., then RED=Power/Black=POWER(L1 & L2)/WHITE="N"Neutral/and GREEN=SAFETY GROUND,on the new unit, then use from the wall power BLACK = L1 and White= L2. then on the unit RED=L1 and BLACK=L2(either way you hook these 2 up there isn't a polarity issue on these 2 wires) on the units hook-up/then use the BARE supply wire as neutral and tie BOTH WHITE and GREEN from the unit together to this BARE wire
Likely the black was used as a neutral and the reds were 240 volts.
You need to investigate at your panel. If you see the black going to the neutral bar, abandon it by capping with wire nut. If you see both the reds going to adjacent terminals on a double breaker, connect one red to the red and the other red to the black of the cooktop,
Old plug: green is ground, white and blace are both hot power. New cooktop: green is ground, WHITE is COMMON, black and RED are hot power. You are going to need an electrician to run a new circuit and plug for your new cooktop.
the new cooktops and ovens now have a 4th wire used for separating the ground and neutral. some new homes and remodeled homes have a 4th wire run from the circuit panel to the unit. you dont have this but it is ok to just hook up the white and green/ground wires together. then red to red and black to black. it will work properly and thats all you have to do.
To complying with changed Codes (effective in 2002 ) regarding stoves, ovens and dryers. You will need a 120/240 volt 4 wire 40 amp and 50 amp circuit. This
Decades ago it was permitted to use a 3 wire system (having two 120 volt hots (Black and Red) and 1 combination ground/neutral wire) (green and white) to serve stoves, cooktops, ovens and dryers. The Code change now requires all stoves and dryers in NEW construction to have the 4 wire set-up (now having two 120 volt hots, 1 white neutral and one green or bare wire ground).
Existing wiring is grand-fathered under the Code change.....I advise you to change the feed wiring over to the the 4 wire set-up... because - as with ALL Code changes in the past...it will eventually become mandatory for all stoves, ovens and dryers as the grand-father clause drops off. By complying now...
BUT the wiring will need to change to 8/3 with ground. (having 4 wires inside one outer jacket).This is the primary reason for the Code change....to provide a greater margin of safety to the user.
I can NOT recommend the 3 wire hook-up...the 4 wire provides a seperate ground and neutral - which makes the chance of a user shock when touching the metal frame (from an internal fault in the oven) much less likely then the old 3 wire set-up.... which did NOT have the seperate ground and neutral.
You do need a 208/240 volt supply from your service panel. The green is ground, white is nuetral, and the red and black should measure 120 volts each to ground or 240/208 between each other. It is normal for most breaker panels to supply 208/240 between adjacent insulators. If you are only getting 1/2 of that then the circuit breaker may not be straddling the insulator bar but be 1/2 notch out and both breaker pins contacting the same 110 supply.