When pushing the up/down button, the vent will go up with no problem. However, when pushing the button to make it go down, the vent will go down but then go right back up. It won't stay down. The only way to keep it down is to turn off the breaker when it gets to its lowest point. Once there, the breaker can be turned back on and the vent will stay down.
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Re: raised vent system won't stay in down position
Sounds like yo u have a faulty home switch. when dropped to lowest setting it should switch off electric. however if switch is bad never senses its down adn thenwants to open back up. there should be an acces panel in lower right corner of unit along witha wire diargam
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Try using a pair of pliers and pushing down as you turn first counter clockwise as if you are turning the gas on then back clockwise till it won't turn anymore. If it's still trying to ignite see if its the oven or make sure that its the burner that's trying to ignite . I''m not a appliance person just a home maker so if it were me and none of those things work turn off the gas to the stove unplug the power to the stove and call the gas company or appliance center. One thing though some of those type of knobs are two parts like they have to be pressed down to turn on the gas. Or the have to be set in a certain position to engage the ignite switch. If you know a little about wiring look at the switch and check the wires. But make sure before you do anything that there is no gas on.!!!
Some units have a dead man switch, which means that if the filters are not in place correctly the blowers will not operate. Its a safety thing to prevent little ones from dropping toys into a running blower. Double check the filters placement, if the filters are in the proper location than I would look at the power to the blower unit. The vent has two jobs, (1) to raise and lower, (2) to turn on the blower unit once in the full up position. If this is not the case, the upper switch in the vent system has failed. If you already confused, you will need to call a Viking expert to correct this problem. Its not difficult but can be time consuming.
I hope this helps
I have seen this problem twice and found the filters were the problem, rarely replace blower motors..
I just finished researching the same issue for my 36" downdraft. It appears that the ost common problem is the little up/down switch.
Most folks on-line were being told that they had to buy the whole top unit for $500.00 plus labor. But an electrical engineerpointed out that allvikingparts.com sold a switch for about $60.00 delivered.
It seems that if one holds the switch for an extended period of time it can heat up and burn a connector - might be a coincidence, but my unit stopped working just after my 4 year old grandson visited for two weeks - I made the mistake of showing him how pushing the button would make the vent go up and down. So the switch probably got mre use in a week than it had in the eight years since it was installed.
You can simply peel your switch off with your finger nail ( it will stick right back). On mine I noticed that the center "wire" hade a dark line through it which probably indicates that it is "burned"
My part is on the way.
Hope this helps - $57.00 is much easier to swallow than $595.00
Usually this is the two gas valve solenoids, though it can also be a bad flame sensor or thermo. The solenoids are easy to change, they are right in front and usually have two screws holding them down. Order new solenoids by model number. Once you have the new ones you will see how they look and where they go on your gas burner. Just make sure you make not of the wire positioning and install the new ones the same way. Usually 3 wires on one side and two wires on the other. Parts are pretty cheap. Before I replace these I put an electrical testor on the solenoids to test if there is 120 volts coming in when the burner stops working. If their is 120 volts and the ignitor is glowing then you definitely have bad solenoids. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists.
Ours started doing the same thing. I got it to start working again by gently holding down the up/down button until it started to move. After doing this a few times it started working normally again. Also the keypad can be locked and unlocked by pressing the low and high buttons together for 1 second.
I just had a similar problem. The switch knob, and backer for the blower got jambed in the housing. After pulling it all apart I called the parts center at Thermador and ordered a new switch. If you can hear the motor the raises the unit run, then that could be your problem.