Question about Miele Novotronic W1918A Front Load Washer
All is fine up to the start of the first rinse cycle. During the first rinse cycle the water is only comming from one of the three cold water inlet soleniods which provides insufficent water supply to the drum, I think the level control valve sences the lack of sufficent water and signals the machine to stop. Howerver the machine does not always stop dispite the low level of water and the trouble light still flashing. The cycles continues to the second rinse cycle at which point all three inlet soleniods work providing sufficent water to the drum. Because the inlet water vavles works during the second rinse cycle I think they can be ruled out as the problem, I am thinking it is the circuit board. What do you think?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replace inlet vavle
Gupshaw, I know this is a duplicate, so I'm just trying to get this ticket closed out. However, if you check this one first, here's all the information too.
Unfortuneately the 24032\24036 is a series number that encorporates many models numbers of machines. These instructions will therefore try and cover all of the models in this series. Thankfully, most of the steps are all similar for the whole series.
To help get you machine going again faster, have you already purchased a replacment water valve? While you can order them online from the manufacturer, it is far easier and quicker to take the same model number to a local appliance parts store (usually listed in the phone book) and just get one from them (typically it is cheaper this way too). Now that you have your part, these are the basic's.
First, you have to un plug the unit. Next turn the hot and cold water valves coming from your house off. Next, loosen the hose connectors where they meet the machine using plier or channel locks. There will be water left in them so if don't want the small amount of water on the floor, I recommend holing a wash cloth, towel, rag, etc underneath them. Once they are disconnected, lay them out of the way, or tie them to the large black drain hose. There will be 1 or 2 (depending on your model) 1/4 inch screws that hold the valve on next to where you removed the hoses. Go ahead and take these out now too.
Now to get inside, open the console. There are 3 common ways to open them for this series. The most common is models have plastic caps covering the 2 phillips screws that will be on the right and left hand sides where the console meets the top of the washer. Just firmly pull on the right and left corners at the top to remove the covers and the screws underneath. The next most sommon style is 2 phillips screws on the back side of the console where it meets the top of the washer. This style will have no covers. The 3rd most common type is when there are no screws or caps. This last style, you will have to use a putty knife or narrow flat head screw driver. Insert it under the front right and left hand sides where the console meets the top in the front. Push it in between the top and console and it will release the clip. All 3 styles will now rotate up and towards the rear of the machine. It's the same from here on in for all of the series. Underneath the console there will be 3 wires connected to the top of the washer. (genreally a combanation of brown, green, whit, or gray) Unplug this connector by gently prying the clip on the side of the connector and gently pulling). Next, remove the 2 brass colored clips underneath by pushing down with a large screwdriver at the point where it goes into the top of the machine while simultaniously pushing towards the rear. Once these clips are off, it will let the top, front and both sides come off as one assembly. First tilt the top towards you (about 45 degrees). Now put one hand inside under the lid to pick up on the cabinet while keeping the other hand on the back of the cabinet to keep the whole cabinet tilted. Once you set the cabinet aside, locate your water valve on the inside of the machine. You will find 2-4 connectors going to the valve depending on the model. Just jot down what order they are in then remove them. Again gently pry the locking tab to the side and slide the connector off. Finnally, you will see a black rubber hose with a silver or green clamp on the bottom of the valve. Just squeeze the clamp together, and pull the hose off (watch out for that left over water again). Now you just re-assemble everything in reverse order.
I always recommend you test your washer (fill it, agitate it and spin it out) while you are standing there to make sure you didn't miss one of these steps and have some unpleasent leaks.
If you are still having problems or run into trouble, send me back your specific model number (If you lift the lid to your washer and look at the plaque on the back center just under the lid you will have a model number [usually started with a 110.]) and where you got hung up at and we'll get you on through it.
Finnally, if this has taken care of everthing you needed, please don't forget to log back in and score my information. It helps others find me so I can assist them as well.
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
SOURCE: how to replace inlet vavle
yes your inlet water valve is the problem. you have to remove the outer cabinet first by taking the control panel loose and "flipping it back, then remove the 2 hold down clips, kindof a wierd "s" shaped thing in each upper corner, then the cabinet will "hinge" forward allowing you to get into where the valve is at. the rest should be easy, a single mounting screw and the 2 hoses, make sure to put the wiring plugs back on in the correct place on the new valve.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
I have exactly the same problem. I am currently getting around the issue by letting the machine do the washing then at the end of that cycle do a manual rinse cycle.
Posted on Nov 28, 2010
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Oct 02, 2012 | Fisher and Paykel WA37T26G Top Load Washer
It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.
If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.
Check this link to replace the inlet valve:
Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.
Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.
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