Question about Philips DIRECTV H20 DTV Receiver

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Directv h20 receiver has low volyage to the lnb.

Voltage at sat in connector is 7.5 volts, but with lnb connected voltage drops to less than one volt. Is there a dropping resistor in that circuit or what may the problem be. no shorts in rf cable. it is ok

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  • Tom Herschlein
    Tom Herschlein Mar 08, 2008

    jaime, where can I download a schematic for H20 Receiver

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  • 2,296 Answers

Check inside the receiver for a defective LM317 IC or a TIP42C transistor, but before that you should check for proper voltage from the power supply to that IC.
LM317/TIP42C control the switching of voltages that power up the LNB, you should be getting 14 volts for vertical channels and 18 volts for horizontal.
Good Luck.

Posted on Mar 08, 2008

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No voltaje in conector

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

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How is the pigtail ground strap from engine block to body? Have you had engine diagnostic test done? Voltage rVOLTAGE DROP TEST
A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amperage circuits. It's a quick and easy test that doesn't require any disassembly and will quickly show you whether or not you've got a good connection or a bad one.
To do a voltage drop test, you create a load in the circuit that's being tested. Then you use a digital volt meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across the live connection while it is under the load. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the circuit or connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the DVM and create a voltage reading.
voltage_drop.jpg

If a connection is good, you should find little or no voltage drop and see less than 0.4 volts for most connections, and ideally less than 0.1 volts. But if you find more than a few tenths of a voltage drop across a connection, it indicates excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or repair.
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To check the starter circuit for excessive resistance, you need to measure the voltage drop at the battery, battery cable connections and starter while the engine is being cranked.
The first check is "available battery voltage." For the starter to crank at normal speed, the battery must be at least 75% charged (12.4 volts or higher). Low battery voltage can not only affect the starter but every other electrical system in the vehicle.
A. Set your DVM to the 20 volt scale, then connect meter positive (+) lead to battery positive (+) post (not the clamp or cable), and the meter negative (-) lead to battery negative (-) post.
B. Disable the engine so it will not start when it is cranked. (Ground the ignition coil wire, or disable the ignition circuit or fuel pump relay.) Limit cranking time to 15 seconds or less.
C. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading on the DVM. D. Next, connect your meter positive (+) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter, and the meter negative (-) lead to the starter housing.
E. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading.
F. Compare the two voltage readings. If both are the same, there are no excessive voltage drops on the positive feed side.
G. If available voltage at the starter is not within one (1) volt of battery voltage, there is excessive voltage drop in the circuit.
The next test is for voltage drop on the positive side of the starter circuit.
A. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
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D. Connect meter positive (+) lead to positive (+) battery post, and the meter negative (-) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter. While cranking the engine, record the voltage reading.
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Check between the engine block and starter housing (should be 0.10 volts or less).
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egulator checked with voltmeter?

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Before we get into measuring any voltage. Read the info from this link and see if that applies to the receiver that is acting up on you.

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You could check the voltages yourself to see if they are low. The horizontal polarity needs about 19 volts and the vertical polarity about 14 volts to work properly. If those voltages are lower by 25%, the receiver might failed to scan and that is when it locks up because is trying to find signal. The other issue could be a defective power supply if the receiver does not work after that 4 hours. There could be some capacitors that lost their dielectric strength causing the drop in voltage.
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First, check battery post to cable connection: positive meter lead on battery positive post, negaitve lead on battery's positive cable clamp. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have zero voltage drop. Second, check the positive cable: positve meter lead on positive battery clamp, negative lead on starter terminal connector. A good cable will show a voltage drop of .2 volts or less while cranking. Third, check the starter connection: positive meter lead on positive battery terminal on the solenoid, negative meter lead on actual starter stud. A good connection will have a voltage drop of near zero volts. Now to check the negative side of the circuit. Total drop on the ground side should be .3 volts or less and can be checked by placing positive meter lead on starter housing and negative meter lead on battery ground post. Take your reading while cranking the engine, and be sure your connection at the starter is solid and clean. If total voltage drop on this side of the circuit is excessive, complete testing at all connections in the same fashion as the positive side of the circuit. Check the following: between battery post and clamp (zero voltage drop), cable end at battery to cable end at engine. (.2 volts or less), cable end at engine to engine itself (near zero voltage drop), and finally between starter housing and engine block (.1 volts or less).

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The voltage is supplied by the power-supply through the RF/IF interface usually encased in a metal box on its own. Also without knowing the model number of your unit I cant help any further.

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