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Model number df410sf.after the cycle has nearly completed e6appearson module. according to manual fault is machine not draining. motor okay drain pump okay.

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Hello dude

Posted on Mar 08, 2008

  • isaac johny
    isaac johny Mar 08, 2008

    If you opened and closed the door and it started, that sounds like a bad, door switch in the console.



    But you did hear a hum sound when it tried to drain, it could be the drain solenoid, or the motor/pump assembly but you have said its fine.



    Take off the bottom access and look at the solenoid when it starts to
    drain, the piston in the solenoid should move freely, up and down with
    the white drain flapper that it connects to.



    Also check for bad wiring connections at the power junction box where
    the power hooks up to it under the dishwasher, i have seen the wire
    nuts either come loose or burn off due to loose connections.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Fisher Paykel GWL11- US Washer


- Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 1:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

3 - Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 3:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

9 - Size setting fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 9:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Reset machine size as per service manual instructions. If fault repeats replace Motor control module.

10 - Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 10:
Primary Source: Thermistor.
Action: Replace Thermistor.

11 - Pressure Sensor Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 11:
Primary Source: Pressure Tube.
Action: 1 - Empty all water from the machine. Remove pressure tube from pressure sensor, clear pressure tube of any water and reconnect tube (blow down the tube is necessary). 2 - If fault repeats, replace Motor Control Module.

12 - Flood Protection Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 12:
Primary Source: Water Valves.
Action: If the water valves are on continuously, check that the water valves turn off mechanically by disconnecting power to the machine.
Secondary Source: Pump System.
Action: Check pump for blockage and drain hose for correct height(end not immersed in water) or kinked.
Tertiary Source: motor control module.
Action: If water valves are been driven on electrically, replace motor control module.

36 - Water Leak Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 36:
Motor control module has needed to top up the water level more than 4 times during wash/rinse cycle. Most likely cause is waster siphoning out or the machine has developed a leak.
Primary Source: Drainage system.
Action: Check that the hose is not less than 850mm from the ground
Secondary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Make sure the pressure tube is fitted correctly and doesnt have any holes.

37 - Blocked pump:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 37:
Primary Source: Drain System.
Action:
1. Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2. Check the length of the hose. 1m is maximum extension.
3. Check drain pump winding for open circuit.(Note: Pumps are fitted with a thermal cut out and will reset after cooling)
4. Check for physical blockage to pump and hoses.

38 - Pressure Sensor Fault(empty reading during wash cycle):
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 38:
Primary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Check if tube is fitted correctly, check for blockages or holes in the pressure tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module
Action: Replace the module.

39 - Pressure Tube Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 39:
Same as fault 38.

40 - Bowl Dis-engage Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 40:
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action:
1. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can also stop the bowl rotating.
2. Check the clutch splines for physical damage.
3. Check that the pressure tube has not come off, kinked or blocked(blow down the tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Board.
Action: Change Board.

43 - Out Of Balance Switch Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 43:
Motor control module has found that signal returning from the out of balance switch indicates that the switch is permanently on or the harness to it is disconnected.
Action:
1. Check the level of the machine.
2. Check wiring to the switch.
3. Check switch for continuity and corrosion.

44 - Water in Bowl During Spin:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 44:
Primary Source: Drain system.
Action: Check for blockages/kinks in drain hose and function of the drain pump.

48 - Hot and Cold Inlet Valve Incorrect Signal:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 48:
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action: Check the wiring.
Secondary Source: Inlet Valves.
Action: Check the resistance of the coils.
Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Change Module.

49 - Cold Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 49:
Action: See fault 48.

50 - Hot Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 50:
Action: See fault 48.

51 - Diverter Valve Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 51:
Primary Source: Blocked diverter valve.
Action: Check for foreign objects in the valve.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module & Diverter Valve
Action: Plug the machine into the power point but off at the control panel. Check voltage on the plugs at the diverter valve. If voltage around 230V, change diverter valve and motor control module

Oct 07, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

Tip

No spin - tip for all washers.


Hi.

If you have no spin there may be different reasons behind the problem. Before advancing to spin the timer board performs a test on drain part of the cycle, stops the drain and checks the door lock. Drain system, pressure switch and lid switch are all parts that if defective may cause no spin.

The first part to be tested is the drain system. This must be checked regardless of the fact that the pump is working. If there is blockage, residual water in the drain system or water flowing back from drain hose may cause the washer not detecting that drain is complete, and not advancing to spin.

Disconnect power and check the drain system, accessing drain filter and hose connected to the drain pump.
In most front loaders this is accessed removing the trim at the base of the front side of the appliance (under the door), and rotating the filter cap counterclockwise. The filter should be located behind the trim at the base of the washer.
Top loader usually offer access to pump either from back or from the bottom of the appliance. In some case (eg.Kenmore top load) you have to lean the machine forware to gain access to the bottom part of the unit, where the pump is located.

After opening the pump hose cover be prepared to collect a good amount of water. Keep a container at hand. Ensure that power is not connected before starting.

Also double check drain hose at the back of the appliance, and check that the elbow height is as prescribed in manual. Incorrect drain hose settings may result in syphoning, that means water is flowing back from drain hose into the washer tube. This may result in no spin.

After performing the check on the drain system test washer again. Sometimes removing eventual blockage in drain pump may fix this kind of problem.

If the pump is draining, but drain doesn't complete, and if there is no blockage in drain lines, a parts that may be causing the no-spin problem are pressure switch and door latch switch.

The door latch switch is checked by electronic control before advancing to spin. The door switch is tested running a cycle with the door switch contacts jumped. If the model has a lock motor more testing is needed. In that case the switch is tested ensuring that the lock motor impedance reads according to specifications and energizing the lock motor.

If the drain stops always at same point and cycle does not advance replace also the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when drain is over and when to advance to spin. This part is difficult to test in full, the part is not expensive and it is usually replaced without testing. Pressure switch is a common failure causing no spin. If drain is OK, then either pressure switch or lid switch/lock system is usually responsible.

If the above is OK , with top loaders you need to add to the list the problems related to motor and transmission. In front loaders, check problems related to motor and motor control unit. Such problems will be near to the end of the troubleshooting list. Check them before deciding to replace the electronic control.

If all the other parts are OK, what remains is the electronic control module (CCU). The CCU is rarely causing no spin. A defective electronic control module usually results in an error message being prompted, or in the machine not working at all. The part is tested in full reading volts while the machine is operating. In some case it is possible to find a faulty CCU by visually inspecting the board or by testing the module at component level.

For safety reasons some of the operations proposed in the tip are suitable only for a trained technician. Always ensure that power is turned off while inspecting and maintaining the appliance.

Good luck

Ginko.

on Jan 12, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Machine did not drain and when rinse cycle came around it filled with more water, now full of water not draining, and the dial will (tick tick tick) round and round and round until I manually stop it!!! ...


Hi.

According to the description, the parts that may be responsible are pressure switch, drain system, control panel.

Testing will start from the drain system. The drain hose at the back must be checked making sure that there is no blockage and that hose height is set according to manual. If hose is set incorrectly water may flow back from the drain hose into the tub. The consequence is the drain part of the cycle not ending because of siphoning. The drain filter connected to the pump must also be checked. Drain blockage would not explain water filling the tub while machine is supposed to drain, but the filter must be checked in any case because it may be part of the problem. If the machine is front load the drain filter access is usually in front at the bottom, if the machine is a top loader, depending on the model the pump is accessed from underneath or from the back of the machine.

After checking the drain system inspect the pressure switch. The pressure switch is the device that detects the water level. Most washers have the switch located in the control assembly, near to the timer. To access the switch the machine must be partially disassembled. The pressure switch looks like a plastic disk with three or four electrical connectors. The switch is also connected to a long thin rubber hose that extends inside the tub. Before replacing the switch try cleaning the rubber hose and the switch nozzle. Excess of detergent may clog the switch, causing malfunction that often affect the drain and spin part of the cycle. The switch is not an expensive part and it is difficult to test. The switch is tested reading Ohms ( or Volts) at its terminals with tub full and empty. Testing must be done by a trained technician. If cleaning the rubber hose does not do the job I suggest replacing the switch.

If the drain system and pressure switch are fine the next step usually consists in replacing the control module. Before replacement the module should be test reading volts during cycle, checking test points in service manual or at least performing a diagnostic cycle. Instructions on how to run a diagnostic cycle are detailed in the tech sheet. Unless previously removed the tech sheet is usually tucked inside the washer, often inside the control assembly (Maytag, Whirlpool and more).

If the machine is installed in a vehicle, then it is a built in model. To be serviced the appliance must be moved out from its housing. The options for the user are either DIY or calling the number listed on the owners manual to get professional support. Depending on the model the instruction to mount or remove machine from housing are illustrated either in the owners manual or in the installation manual provided with the owners manual.

Regards.

Ginko

Jan 04, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water keeps clicking of after 5 sec same with draining water and drum wont sprin


Hi Robert.

If the machine fills with water and cycle starts but it does not spin and drain, then possible problems are drain hose, drain filter, pressure switch and less frequently pump.

Before advancing to spin the timer board performs a test on drain part of the cycle, stops the drain and checks the door lock. Drain system, pressure switch and lid switch are all parts that if defective may cause no spin.

The first part to be tested is the drain system. This must be checked regardless of the fact that the pump is working. If there is blockage, residual water in the drain system or water flowing back from drain hose may cause the washer not detecting that drain is complete, and not advancing to spin.

Disconnect power and check the drain system, accessing drain filter and hose connected to the drain pump.
In most front loaders this is accessed removing the trim at the base of the front side of the appliance (under the door), and rotating the filter cap counterclockwise. The filter should be located behind the trim at the base of the washer.
Top loader usually offer access to pump either from back or from the bottom of the appliance. In some case (eg.Kenmore top load) you have to lean the machine forware to gain access to the bottom part of the unit, where the pump is located.

After opening the pump hose cover be prepared to collect a good amount of water. Keep a container at hand. Ensure that power is not connected before starting.

Also double check drain hose at the back of the appliance, and check that the elbow height is as prescribed in manual. Incorrect drain hose settings may result in syphoning, that means water is flowing back from drain hose into the washer tube. This may result in no spin.

After performing the check on the drain system test washer again. Sometimes removing eventual blockage in drain pump may fix this kind of problem.

If the pump is draining, but drain doesn't complete, and if there is no blockage in drain lines, a parts that may be causing the no-spin problem are pressure switch and door latch switch.

The door latch switch is checked by electronic control before advancing to spin. The door switch is tested running a cycle with the door switch contacts jumped. If the model has a lock motor more testing is needed. In that case the switch is tested ensuring that the lock motor impedance reads according to specifications and energizing the lock motor.

If the drain stops always at same point and cycle does not advance replace also the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when drain is over and when to advance to spin. This part is difficult to test in full, the part is not expensive and it is usually replaced without testing. Pressure switch is a common failure causing no spin. If drain is OK, then either pressure switch or lid switch/lock system is usually responsible.

If the above is OK , with top loaders you need to add to the list the problems related to motor and transmission. In front loaders, check problems related to motor and motor control unit. Such problems will be near to the end of the troubleshooting list. Check them before deciding to replace the electronic control.

Always disconnect power cord or trip the circuit breaker before performing maintainance operations.

If you need to contact a qualified technician, call the phone number listed on the owners manual.

To find parts give me the model number or click on the link below, select distributor and enter your model number.

Parts and diagrams

Regards.

Ginko

Dec 04, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer has just started to leave about an inch of water in the bottom of the tub after the cycle is complete, leaving my clothes soaking wet. How do I get the water out?


Hi.

The problem is either caused by a drain system fault or by a defective pressure switch.

Check that height and setting of drain hose at the back are correct. If the hose is not set correctly (check manual), then water will flow back inside the appliance. The problem is called siphoning.

Make sure there is no drain system blockage. Inefficient drain because of blockage results in soaked water. Check hose connected to pump located at the base of the washer.

Check and eventually replace the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when to stop the spin part of the cycle. The pressure switch is located in control assembly, near to control module. Clean the long rubber hose connected to the switch.

Inside the control assembly look also for an envelope containing the tech sheet. The document will contain the instructions to run diagnostic cycle in this model. Run a diagnostic cycle.

Regards.

Ginko

Aug 29, 2011 | Maytag Centennial 3.2 cu. ft. SuperSize...

1 Answer

My front load washer will not complete a cycle, when it is near the end of the load is doest spin or empty completly


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!

Good luck!
John C
If this is the solution please score it accordingly- thanks!

Apr 10, 2011 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My Kenmore washing machine is agitating and spinnig on wash cycle. When it gets to the spin cycle, the agitator does not spin. The coupler is fine, what can be the problem?


Hi.

When machine does not advance to Spin, the problem is either related to motor and motor control faults, to drain problems, or to agitator itself.

The first step in troubleshooting is checking if the machine is draining or not.

If the machine does not complete drain cycle before advancing to spin, then it is a drain related problem.
  • If the problem is drain related, inspect the drain hose at the back of the machine as a first thing.
  • Access the drain pump, and undo hose from the drain pump. Check filter if present, and remove eventual blockage in there. This procedure is usually illustrated in the user manual. Before accessing the pump disconnect power.
  • Test the drain pump itself (try to understand if it running or not).
  • If pump and lines are good, then the pressure switch that determines water level must be tested and eventually replaced.

If there is no problem with drain system the rest must be tested.

The variable speed motor and the motor control unit (internal module connected to motor and to main control) must be tested. Main control unit must also be tested at last.
This parts are more difficult to test. Part of the testing is done reading Volts and working with live power, or jumping devices to understand if they were causing the problem. this part of the testing must be done by a technician.
If motor, MCU, and electronic control (CCU) are fine, then the problem may be mechanical.
In your case you stated that you have a motor coupler, and that motor and coupler are fine.
The first part to test is the drain system, the ultimate test will be bypassing the pressure switch to check if that was causing the problem. As said this kinds of test must be done by a technician (I have to mention this).

As you will probably know , parts and diagrams are available at Sears Parts & Accessories Website .

Best regards.

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer won't drain near end of cycle. Motor


Hi,
The problem will be on the main board or the power supply board of the machine might have some problem kindly the check the wire lines as well

i do not think that drain pump is having any problem

Dec 30, 2009 | Kenmore 42822 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Won't drain completely after a cycle is completed


HI. check the following areas for faults.

1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer/control
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

Aug 31, 2009 | Whirlpool Dishwashers

1 Answer

Washing machine will not complete spin cycle


OK, what you are experiencing is a timer mechanism fault. the timer motor is malfunctioning. anytime you have to manually advance the timer knob, this will signal a fault within the control mech. this is easily fixed by, replacing the timer control module. i will place a link to the actual part needed to fix this issue. you can also purchase this timer on line at this site if you wish.

CLICK HERE

Jun 18, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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