Question about Maytag MGR6772 Gemini Gas Kitchen Range
You didn't say if the problem is ignition or lack of gas flow. If ignition, it could be the pilot..if you have one..or the spark unit or its switch. If it is a gas flow problem, get a service person.
Posted on Mar 09, 2008
SOURCE: Gemini Range Dual Burner
Unfortunately, you cannot repair one element of a dual burner. It all comes as one unit. When one portion of a dual or triple element goes bad, you must replace the whole element. I believe the part number is 1032746 and runs about $70. You will have to lift the glass top to access the burner elements. If you decide to pursue this on your own follow these steps: 1. Unplug range and/or turn off main breaker. 2. Open oven door to access screws under front edge of cooktop. Remove two screws and the top should tilt up. 3. The top will not stay up on it's own, so you will need some assistance holding it up. Some ranges have a couple of disconnect plugs that you can unplug, so you remove the entire top and lay it somewhere to work on. If this is the case with yours (as I suspect it is), lay some soft towels down on the kitchen table or counter top and lay the cooktop upside down. This will make it much easier to work on. 4. Remove affected element by disconnecting the wires first. You may want to write down how they came off, so you can be sure to reconnect them in the right order. 5. Remove mounting brackets holding element in place. Pay particular attention to the numbering scheme on the bottom of the element and where the brackets are mounted. The new element usually doesn't come with new brackets which means you have to take the brackets off the old element and put them on the new element. Make sure you install them in the same numbered holes as they were located before. 6. Reconnect wires and reinstall cooktop, making sure you reconnect the disconnect plugs if equipped. Now, be careful when working on the cooktop while it is upside down. Make sure you don't apply too much pressure on the glass or you could crack it. Also, use extreme care NOT to touch the element surface as the oils from you hands can cause hot spots and effectively ruin it. The bake light material in which the element is mounted is also very fragile. DO NOT put to much pressure on it or it may crack and break. Once you get the cooktop reinstalled and power reapplied, op test it to make sure BOTH elements are working. It is normal to see a little bit of sparking at first with new elements and/or an odor. Test the entire range of the element and make sure it regulates like it should. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 04, 2007
Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though
Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Posted on May 23, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
We had an ugly spill of hot grease/water from a roast, and lots of it ran right into the vent holes on our oven door, covering various layers of glass and other parts inside the door. Yuck. Thankfully we found this site!
"fixetheoven" was certainly on the right track, but missed a key step that makes this job much, much easier. (Maybe they had a few too many sips of wine during the process?! :-)
Anyway, the key to make the job easy, and do-able by one person, is to pull the door off the hinges before starting to remove any screws! Here's how we did it:
1. Open the door about four inches or so, it will stay in place. Hold the door at the sides and lift it up, sliding it right off of the hinges! Now lay it carefully face up on a table so you have easy access to the screws, and no danger of the glass dropping out of the bottom of the door (as apparently happened to "fixedtheoven".)
2. Remove the two screws that hold the panel on one side of the door. (One screw is halfway up the side panel, the other is on the bottom edge of the door.)
3. Slide the panel off, paying close attention to how it fits into place so you can return it to its original position later!
4. Remove the two screws that hold the panel on the other side of the door, and slide that panel out as well.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the panel across the bottom edge of the door, and remove that panel.
6. Now you can slide the front glass out from under the top edge of the door.
7. Clean the front glass, the side panels, and the bottom panel, as needed.
8. There will be another layer of glass inside the door. If it needs cleaning on the underside, remove the screws from one of the metal brackets that hold the glass in place. You can then slide this piece of glass out from the metal bracket at the other side.
9. After cleaning everything, reassemble the door by reversing the above steps.
10. Lift the door by the sides and carefully slide it back into place on the hinges. Be sure it is properly in place and being held there before you let go!!
11. Now go pour that glass of wine and sip to your heart's content, while admiring how clean your oven door is!
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
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