Ii have a mtx thunder 6000 12 inch subwoofer 4ohm,and a sonty 1000 watt 2/1 ch amp,i wired the sub in bridge mode,it plays for a minute when volume is turned up,then blows fuses in amp, why would this happen?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I would be more worried about the amp than the speakers, those subs should handle the watts with no problem. The problem will be in the amps ability to remain working with a bridged 2 ohm load. It may not even stay on without going into protect mode with a 2 ohm load. If it does stay on then it may get really hot and shut off from the heat off of the Mosfett Transistors, or it could burn the Mosfetts from driving them too hard. Basically it's your choice, run your amp hard and gain more volume or run it with slightly less sound and have a cleaner sounding more stable amp that will stay on and have less chance of being damaged. If it's not loud enough the best thing to do is buy a different amp that better suits your needs and fits the application. In your case a 2 ohm stable Mono amp is going to be your best bet or a 4 channel amp bridged into 2 channels and run with 4 ohms on each channel. Or another exact matching amp like your 2 channel amp bridge them both and have each powering 1 of your 4 ohm subs. I used two VR mono amps to power my two 12" 4 ohm subs for a few years
Could you elaborate on how the speaker is bridged?
I think you want to hook up a single speaker to a stereo speaker output.
In this case, you would strap (bridge?) the right and left speaker terminals by running a short wire from A right negative to A left negative. Then strap A right positive to A left positive -- this will give you mono output on either of the right or left speaker terminals -- connect your speaker to either one of these.
Do you know what the ohm rating is for the speaker outs on the amp and also the speaker itself?
From what I am able to determine, the Orion HCCA250 is a bridgeable 2-channel amp that is stable to 1ohm when bridged and outputs 800 watts RMS into that load.
The JL W6's in both 10" and 12" versions are dual voice coil with 4ohm coils so they can be wired to present either an 8ohm load (series) or a 2ohm load (parallel). They can handle 600 watts RMS.
With this combination, the best configuration would be to wire the sub voice coils in parallel for a 2ohm load and then parallel both subs to the amp bridged terminals for a final impedance of 1ohm. The subs will each be getting 400 watts.
In any event, I would not recommend running subs in series. There is some evidence for distortion being caused by something termed "back EMF".
The amp outputs 500 watts RMS into 4ohms, 750 watts RMS into 2ohms and 1000 RMS into 1ohm.
The L7 can handle 750 watts RMS (375 watts per each coil). If your L7 is the 2ohm version, you should wire the voice coils in series, the positive marked coil to the negative unmarked coil. Then connect the remaining positive and negative to the amp terminals. This gives you a 4ohm load (500 watts). If your L7 is the 4ohm version, wire the voice coils in parallel, both marked and unmarked positives together, likewise both negatives and then to the amp terminals. This gives a 2ohm load (750 watts).
Paralleling the 2ohm sub will result in a 1ohm load (1000 watts) and that is too much for the L7.
Max 200 W. You could bridge 2 channels of a 4 channel amp (or get a 2 ch amp and bridge it) and connect the sub. Bridging = connect + of sub to + of one channel, and connect - of sub to - of *other* channel. Check amp manual for instructions.
Don't get a mono - most are 300W or more - might burn the coil during loud passages.
The 2 ohm stable rating on the amp is PER channel meaning that you could effectively hook up a 2 ohm speaker or a 2 ohm load to each channel without the amp getting f"d up-butin bridged mode it will only be 4 ohm stable. to achieve a 4 ohm load with your sub the type x wire the coils in series that will get you at 4 ohms to run in bridged mono .But you will get the exact same amount of power if you wire each coil to one channel of the amp as bridged mono sees the sum of your 2 ohm channels combined-Hope that helps.
Your Directed D2400 amp is CEA2006 Compliant. It is stable at 1ohm and will produce 1,200 watts into that load. So you want your subs wired as close to 1 ohm as possible.
The only 3500 watt Pioneer Premier series subs I could find were the models number TS-W3002D2 and TS-W3002D4 with dual 2ohm and dual 4ohm voice coils respectively. The wiring options for the D2's result in 0.5ohm (too low), 2 ohms, and 8ohms. Your best option would be the 2ohm configuration which would be voice coils in series and subs in parallel. Options for the D4's result in a 1ohm load and a 4ohm load. Your best option would be the 1ohm configuration which would be voice coils and subs parallel.
To see the wiring options, try Rockford-Fosgate's "wiring wizard".
Select 2 woofers and the appropriate voice coil impedance and quantity and click "search". It'll bring up all of the possible wiring configurations along with the final impedance load.