Question about GE Refrigerators
Wr49x391 (ge replacement for original part #wr51x231) defrost heaters needs to be modified for shredded fin evaporators with reflector shields already attached to the freezer liner-behind heater location (ge refridge model tff22dvd). instructions with wr49x391 part specifically says do not use this part as is , it says remove reflector shield and use the flanged top shield (furnished) note: not enclosed,it isn't furnished anymore and modification part no longer available. would use the bracket assembly from my freezer but one of the heaters aluminum part that shields the heater glass tube melted.
I have a GSH 22JSTC SS that has a frosting problem. After a series of hairdrier sessions and conversations with the know-nothings at GE service help, I took out the defrost heater and noticed it had burned out. I bought another one and after a few days, that too burned out. (all black like a bad light bulb). What is my next step? Testing the Thermostat? Could this be a timer issue? Where is the timer located? Any imput is greatly appreciated. I am one frustrated GE owner. Thanks
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
The next step would be to unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear panel and defrost so that you can unplug the defrost heater on one end and check the continuity. 305175 Defrost Heater and defrost thermostat Part number 3489. If you change the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Let me know the results. Remember above 60 degrees the defrost thermostat will show open with your OHM meter. Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
I ended up having to remove things in this order: all shelves, ice maker insert, ice maker top ice tray, ice maker lower motor housing, shelving support rails (2), rear evaporator coil cover. This exposed the evaporator coils (which were already dry since the fridge had been off for two days) and most importantly, the defrost heater element below the coils. The heater element was easily unplugged from it's two connectors. I tested the unit with an ohm meter and it indicated it was open (infinity resistance). I then knew it was bad. I replaced it with a new unit and put everything back together in reverse order taking care to use the same screws. The fridge appears to be back in working order.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
the defrost thermistor is your problem: it is going low (turning off) the defrost circuit far too quickly; it is a solid state version of a gas filled cold control sensor.
It "tells" the adaptive defrost controller circuit board the condition: (frost level) of the evaporator and, intitiates the defrost mullion heater timer. if it turns off to soon defrost
mullion heaters turn off and, icing occurs. I do not know; right off hand: which boards you are alluding to; however I believe you are referring to the power supply board for the
Posted on Jul 20, 2010
Testimonial: "I will let you know after replacing the part if it fixed the problem. I tested the thermister at 32F and it shows no continuity(infinity). Many thanks"
You have to strap the two tubes together with a proper size / type wire / spade connector and then plug your existing wires to one of the tubes on each end.
This will send current through both tubes (in parallel), and "out the other end", so to speak.
This is not all that simple. You could take the new heater to an appliance repair shop and they can rig it for you to use one wire on each end.
Posted on Jan 08, 2011
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