Question about Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Green light constantly blinking. No image on the monitor. Burnt spot on circuit board by the heat sink. Need schematic to identify resistor to get replacement

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

  • Expert
  • 290 Answers

Unfortunately, most consumer devices to not have freely available schematics. Plus, the chances of the resistor in question being the only faulty part is low, as something must have caused the resistor to be overpowered.

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I fried the labelled R12 resistor beyond identification on the console circuit board of my York 360 HRC elliptical cross trainer. York service is no help. Need schematics on the circuit board or something...


you should be able to get a new R12 resistor at radio shack. be VERY careful when heating the solder up to remove/replace the resistor. Hope this helps!

Nov 16, 2013 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

For well over a year now the Blue color in my Hitachi 43UWX10B set has been skewed horizontally and now no picture at all, just clicking. I do believe my convergence IC is defective which has caused my set...


See attached photos of the board used in YOUR set---look to see if any of the resistors marked are discolored or burnt in the middle---color bands on them indicate value and if burnt it means they are gone---

Chips used are on the right side of the large metal heat sink with fins and the number will be printed on them in white as in the photo.

If you find one or more burnt you are going to have to replace both chips and any burnt resistors---total parts cost on EBAY would be well under 25 dollars.

There are two versions of the model you have---one as the pictures show has a narrow board on the far right (as you look from the back) that can easily be removed.

The second does not and the entire chassis has to be freed and lifted up so the bottom is facing the back of the set for replacement.

I hope you have the one with the smaller board as in the photo---5 minutes with the back off to get it out.

If this has helped you rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free and if you need any help respond to this posting here and I will assist you. Regards, SD TECH


adac5e6.jpg



06d55e5.jpg




b4586b6.jpg





fab27a9.jpg

Aug 12, 2010 | Hitachi 43UWX10B 43" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

System was up an running then, Then shut down


It sounds to me like it overheated and something burnt out, but I could be wrong. The main pieces in a desktop computer are: power supply, motherboard, cpu, ram, and video card (which is on the motherboard for lower end systems.)
Each one will need to be properly tested to find out which part(s) is(/are) failing, and the failing part(s) will need to be replaced.

Apr 19, 2010 | HP Compaq Presario SR1110NX PC Desktop

1 Answer

The screen seems to have two of the same image, green and red.


Yes.
The fix is to replace the two Convergence IC's( STK392-110's) with STK392-150's. They are located to the right side of the chassis and mounted to large heat sinks. Be also on the look out for some burnt resisters and or discolored resistors that failed becuase of the IC's failing. These would be located just to the left of the heat sinks. If they are burnt or severly discolored, you will need to replace them with the exact valued resistors. In this high current circuit it is a must.
I hope this helps,
Skyassoc

Jan 07, 2010 | Hitachi 60FX32B 60" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Picture shaped like a bowtie, (shrinking)


Hello, This is your classic convergence Amplifier IC problem. Here is a way to deal with it. These are generic instrustions: 1) Get the schematic/service manual for this TV (You will need it because it contains the part numbers and component values you will need for replacement) 2) On the schematic/service manual locate the convergence amplifiers (STK392-110, 120, 150) and the biasing resistors (Write the resistor values down from the schematic) 3) Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover to expose the electronic circuitry. 4) Using the schematic/service manual find the physical location of the two convergence amplifiers (Usually attached to a big metal silver in color heat sink) (Basically it will look like two big black six sided flat modules with a lot of pins on the bottom (18-22 to be exact)). 5) After finding the heat sink and amplifiers remove the screws or the tension bar holding the amplifiers in place. 6) Using a soldering iron and a de-soldering device (either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering wick) remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and biasing resistors that protrude from the solder side of the circuit board. (Take into mind that you may have to remove the board in order to do this, use the instructions in the schematic/service manual to do this, and make sure you mark everything you remove to make sure you have a guide as to how to put it back) 7) After removing the solder from the pins off the amplifiers and the biasing resistors, remove the resistors making a list of the value, part number, and location on the board (all of this should be in the schematic/service manual). Then remove the two convergence amplifier modules taking care so as not to damage the circuit board. NOTE: The heat sink compound (the white goopy stuff) may have hardened and caused the module to stick to the heat sink, you will have to gently pry the module away from the heat sink, I have used a light application of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the heat sink paste. 8) Once the modules are loose from the heat sink, you can gradually remove them from the circuit board. 9) Clean the heat sink off by using the alcohol and a heavy paper towel (remove all of the heat sink paste, and yes this is messy) At this point you have removed the two convergence amplifier modules and the biasing resistors and cleaned the heat sink. Now you will have to use your schematic/service manual to find the part locations, values and numbers you will need to replace the old parts I suggest replacing the biasing resistors first. 1) Sort out the resistors you will need and as stated in the schematic/service manual and replace them according to the schematic/service manual locations and part numbers. 2) Solder the components (resistors) in place making sure not to short out anything in the process. 3) Apply heat sink paste to the metal side of the modules one at a time and the put the modules into the circuit board lining up the screw holes of the modules with the screw holes in the heat sink, use the removed screws or tension bar to hold the modules down once in place in the circuit board and on the heat sink. 4) Solder the pins of both amplifier modules to the circuit board, taking care not to short out anything. 5) Reinstall the board to the TV, reconnect all cables removed (DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING) If all went well the convergence amps should be working, and you will need to realign the convergence of your TV, I suggest using the AUTO Convergence feature of your TV (Use the instructions in the schematic/service manual). All should be good now. Now these instructions are generic in nature but can be use for a number of Models of Projection TVs. In addition to this also make sure your Yoke transformers on your CRTs are functioning as they should, check the voltages applied to them. I hope this helps, Thank you, Shuttle83 http://www.electron-age-technologies-llc.com

Jun 10, 2009 | JVC AV-56WP30 56" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Resistor burnt up, inable to identify due to skorched bands


I have the same exact problem in a 12 volt Lincoln battery charger. Burned resistor in R5.

May 07, 2009 | Lincoln 14.4 Volt Cordless Grease Gun,...

2 Answers

My monitor turns yellow


Computer monitors get separate red, green and blue video signals from the computer, and if you lose the blue the result is a yellow picture. This can be caused by video card failure in the computer (very unlikely), a bad cable (fairly common), or trouble in the monitor (which is most likely what you have).

The usual problem with monitors is bad solder connections to the red, green and blue output devices. These are usually three separate transistors, but sometimes an integrated circuit that puts all three in one package is used. These outputs get pretty hot, and the heat can cause the connections on the circuit board to crack. Resoldering them usually fixes the trouble. (Sometimes the part actually fails, but bad connections are more common.)

The parts are normally in one of two places. Most commonly they are on the small circuit board you'll find right at the neck of the picture tube. Some monitors have them on the main circuit board. They may be mounted to metal heat sinks to help keep them cool. If you can identify them and resolder the connections, you'll probably get your normal picture back.

Sep 22, 2008 | HP mx705 17" CRT Monitor

2 Answers

Convergence problem


Hello nursecmp,

You have a convergence amplifier problem. Now you have two choices: 1) fix it yourself or 2) Get it fix by a qualified TV repair person. Granted if you choose the latter, you will spend about $200-$500 depending on the shop. So as you stated you would want to do this yourself. OK, I will not get into the problems with this, rather I'll give you the basic procedure and the you can search fixya for a more in depth solution (I'll show you how to do this after the basic instruction on how to replace the Convergence Amplifiers (I rarely give these instructions) Here goes:

1) Get the schematic/service manual for this TV (You will need it because it contains the part numbers and component values you will need for replacement)

2) On the schematic/service manual locate the convergence amplifiers (STK392-110, 120, 150) and the biasing resistors (Write the resistor values down from the schematic)

3) Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover to expose the electronic circuitry.

4) Using the schematic/service manual find the physical location of the two convergence amplifiers (Usually attached to a big metal silver in color heat sink) (Basically it will look like two big black six sided flat modules with a lot of pins on the bottom (18-22 to be exact)).

5) After finding the heat sink and amplifiers remove the screws or the tension bar holding the amplifiers in place.

6) Using a soldering iron and a de-soldering device (either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering wick) remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and biasing resistors that protrude from the solder side of the circuit board. (Take into mind that you may have to remove the board in order to do this, use the instructions in the schematic/service manual to do this, and make sure you mark everything you remove to make sure you have a guide as to how to put it back)

7) After removing the solder from the pins off the amplifiers and the biasing resistors, remove the resistors making a list of the value, part number, and location on the board (all of this should be in the schematic/service manual). Then remove the two convergence amplifier modules taking care so as not to damage the circuit board. NOTE: The heat sink compound (the white goopy stuff) may have hardened and caused the module to stick to the heat sink, you will have to gently pry the module away from the heat sink, I have used a light application of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the heat sink paste.

8) Once the modules are loose from the heat sink, you can gradually remove them from the circuit board.

9) Clean the heat sink off by using the alcohol and a heavy paper towel (remove all of the heat sink paste, and yes this is messy)

At this point you have removed the two convergence amplifier modules and the biasing resistors and cleaned the heat sink.

Now you will have to use your schematic/service manual to find the part locations, values and numbers you will need to replace the old parts I suggest replacing the biasing resistors first.

1) Sort out the resistors you will need and as stated in the schematic/service manual and replace them according to the schematic/service manual locations and part numbers.

2) Solder the components (resistors) in place making sure not to short out anything in the process.

3) Apply heat sink paste to the metal side of the modules one at a time and the put the modules into the circuit board lining up the screw holes of the modules with the screw holes in the heat sink, use the removed screws or tension bar to hold the modules down once in place in the circuit board and on the heat sink.

4) Solder the pins of both amplifier modules to the circuit board, taking care not to short out anything.

5) Reinstall the board to the TV, reconnect all cables removed (DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING)


If all went well the convergence amps should be working, and you will need to realign the convergence of your TV, I suggest using the AUTO Convergence feature of your TV (Use the instructions in the schematic/service manual).

All should be good now.

Now these instructions are generic in nature but can be use for a number of Models of Projection TVs.

Jul 18, 2008 | Philips Magnavox 51MP392H Rear Projection...

4 Answers

Phillips 42FD9954 plasma will not turn ON


I have a Phillips 42FD9954/17S and every time I try to turn it on I also get the power red light blinking and sometimes it will try to turn on with a bunch of clicking noises and it will be green for a while then turn red. What I do and its very weird but works, put a blow dryer on hot and blow it under the tv on the side of the power button for about 10 minutes and it will turn on. I took it apart and there is a heat sink that if i put the blow dryer directly onto it on heat it turns on in less than a minute. Can someone tell me how I can fix this heat sink? I cant take it off. I want to put some thermal compound to see if that works. Give it a try I promise it will work. The Red Light has to be on put the heat on it and then press the power button, if you hear it clicking and green then back to red you are almost there. Keep putting heat on it and it will turn on.

Oct 24, 2007 | Philips 42PF7320A 42 in. Plasma HDTV

1 Answer

PT-53WX42 IC replacement


The two convergence IC's are generic part# STK392-110 and Panasonic part# C5AA00000203. Also check for burnt or discolored resistors nearby. Since this is such an easy repair,a schematic is not necessary....The hardest part is identifying the burnt resistors and aligning the green convergence in the service menu.

Sep 18, 2007 | Panasonic PT-47WX49 47" Rear Projection...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Computers & Internet Logo

Related Topics:

225 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Computers & Internet Experts

Les Dickinson
Les Dickinson

Level 3 Expert

18385 Answers

kakima

Level 3 Expert

102366 Answers

David Payne
David Payne

Level 3 Expert

14161 Answers

Are you a Computer and Internet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...