Re: Refrigator run for awhile than Overloads breaker
UNPLUG!! CHECK THE RELAY THATS is in the back conected to the compresor if it has a white relay then its proably bad . you can take it off shake it and if it sounds like a salt or pepper shaker .then replace that. but if the compresor keeps on clicking the you have a bad compresor . and it exceeds the cost of the fridge
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Most refrigerators draw up to 12 amps on a lock-rotor.. meaning it reached temperature, and turned "off" there needs to be 5 or 10 mins, before the compressor can restart due to hi-pressure inside the condenser . usually you will hear the fan(s) come on, it makes a "click" sound trying to start- that's called a Lock rotor. when People seem to have problems asking about how many Amps. it's because they trip their house breaker. I will assume and respond under that pretext - 1) 15 amps minimum on a dedicated line, means only that item. 2) house breakers weaken over time and will trip - here's how you can tell the difference If your breaker trips the instant you plug in your refrigerator.. 90% probable problem with refrigerator, a short somewhere is causing the breaker to open the circuit . if you plug in, and Refrigs runs for any length of time, and then the breaker trips. The refrigerator is combing it's consumption of Amps, contributing them with something else so together they exceed the rated voltage or you need a new breaker.
Yews you have a short that is causing the tripped breaker. Is this fridge older than 10-12 years old. Is so, you may want tol look at replacing it. It is possible you got water inside the wiring when washing it .
Usually refrigerators use the condenser plumbing to create heat around the door gaskets. If your getting heat on the door gaskets that means that the condenser fan in the back is either not running or.... the condenser coils are clogged with lint. The fan should be running anytime the compressor is running. Since you said it is starting to trip the breaker.. I am assuming there may be a problem with the condenser fan being stuck or the windings have failed. Without a model number I can not pass you replacement fan parts information. I will say that the average person can change the condenser fan if they just take their time and pay attention to how it is mounted.
Remove the rear lower fiberboard cover:
Check the condenser fan... clean the condenser coils in the bottom rear of the unit. You can..... use and external fan directed into the back of the refrigerator while your awaiting parts to keep the unit going. All your doing is getting rid of the heat that the condenser fan would have done if it was working properly.
If directing a fan at the back of unit does not cause ther temperature around the door gaskets to drop your original assumption of having heating elements between the doors may be correct. Usually units that have actual heaters have an enrgery saver switch in the fresh food compartment that will turn off the heaters.
replace the ptc overload relay on the compressor,it merely unplugs,it supplies start and run power to the compressor and if its bad it will allow the compressor to operate on the start windings too,and draw a lot of current
Unless there is a dedicated circuit of 20 amps to the refrigerator this will continue to happen When your refrigerator goes into defrost and other things like lights fans air conditioners are on the same circuit it will have no choice to not trip the breaker. Try this turn the breaker off and how may thing in your house stop working? You need a 20 AMP circuit or this will possibly damage the compressor or weaken the breaker because it has tripped so many time. Thanks, Please rate my solution, I have done this work for 30 years. Thanks, Sea Breeze If you have more questions or need help feel free to let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze email@example.com
When the compressor is running, if the fan by the compressor and the fan inside the freezer are both running, and there is no frost on the back wall of the freezer (if there was frost would indicate a defrost issue) then check the air dampener. It is located at the very top left back side of the fresh food section. If it is not opening up, no air will flow from the freezer compartment (where all the cooling takes place) into the refrigerator section.
a full size refrige has to be on a 20 amp circuit, a 15 amp is just not big enough.. you should also know that this circuit has to be on a 12-2 gauge wire.. I also highly recommend installing a 20 amp HD receptacle
Michael, couple of things to check. Is the compressor running? If not remove the back panel and check the overload and relay. It should be a white box on the side of the compressor. Unplug the cord and remove it. Shake it, does it rattle? If so, there's your problem. If that's not the case look for a frost up on the back of the freezer on the panel. If it is all frosted up, you have a defrost issue. Catriver...post back.