Question about Panasonic PT L720E Multimedia Projector

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Panasonic PT L720E keeps going into standby

Hey people,
Ok I know it was a gamble but I just bought a
Panasonic PT L720E from a bootsale, it was 20 quid, so no harm done really. I couldnt believe it actually turned on when i got it home.However, it turns on, starts projecting it screen and then about 5-10 seconds later just switches itself off, no woarning on the screen or anything. The fans seem to be running fine which was my first thought.
So im hoping this maybe something fixable, as it does work, just only for about 10 seconds haha.

Perhaps a power supply fault? or maybe the fans are not sending a pulse back to the circuitry to inform that they are running correctly.. any ideas?

I havent gotten my screwdrivers out just yet!

Cheers
Brads

Posted by on

5 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Panasonic PT-L720E

Normal 0 Im not sure if you are still looking for thesolution to this - i may have some info to aid, but im afraid its not acomplete solution!

Basically it sounds to me (as i have the same problem with the same unit) thatone of the LCD polarisers has melted. inside the light engine, beneath the motherboardat the very centre of the unit there are three screens, Red green and blue,measuring 22.86 mm diagonal (type 0.9). (there is no known part number - buton mine are the letters printed " TEEC5079 >PC< "
They are mounted on small plastic arm brackets and screwed/aligned meticulouslyinto place. if one of them melts (i.e. the coloured surface attached to themmelts)then you get colour problems and blob like bleeds on the image projection.My display was showing a purplish/bluish bleed on the screen, and when i checkedout the RGBs i saw that the red had almost completely burned and melted. Theglass was intact, it was the red surface that had melted.

Unfortunately it is EXTREMLY difficult to get one of these parts. I have beenon the phone to Panasonic at least 12 times, and also been in my local store. Ihave found that they:
a) don’t know anything about the part in question
b) don’t know the part number
c) are unwilling to talk to a single consumer (as this is a business product)
d) will likely forward you to a 3rd party electronics company (who will referyou back to Panasonic arghh!!)
e) Will pass you from call centre to call centre, from Britain to India
f) will not reply to emails, as i have sent 3 over a month ago

The only solution i can think of, and am currently attempting is to use a red camerafilter on the screen. (do a search for “cokin” or “hoyle” filters on ebay alongwith colour required)I have carefully removed the burned remaining residue fromthe LCD screen, so its just a clear piece of glass now. there are no scrapes (iused my fingers/nails as opposed to a tool, which could scrape the surface) andi cleaned the glass with a micro fibre clothe (you can get these from anyoptician)

I went out and purchased some camera filters - in my instance it was red. redis generally used for people taking black and white pictures - to add depths tothe spectrum. anyway i now have a bunch of red filters, some are gel - meaningthey are like plastic sheets that you can attach, others are glass. its now ajob of trying to accurately attach the filter to the clear screen (bare in mindthis thing is 22.86 mm) then refitting.

problems are - how to accurately attach the filter without any defects on thesurface (high temp oven glue perhaps? up to 260 degrees c)
-temperature - inside the light engine it gets really hot, so it is possiblethe filter may burn instantly

I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions on this matter. I have tried toattain this part abroad as well as at home - its near impossible.

many thanks in advance.

Paolo A
Glasgow

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Panasonic PT-AX100U-EC

I just repaired mine with some oil for the iris assembly.
The problem is the iris is either slow to respond or doesn't respond to it's controller. The cam should snap back to it's resting point and move freely. It needs to be re-oiled. Mine would move but sluggishly like it was sticky. There are TWO pivot shafts to oil. One on top and one on the bottom. The bottom one can be accessed by removing the bulb. You can see the bottom cam while the bulb is installed. This is a good point to test the iris movement at.
You need to have some mechanical ability. If you don't think you can do this then don't.
First remove the bottom bulb cover. Now get a flashlight. Look in the area that bulb is pointing towards. In the left corner of the side towards the front of the unit where the lens is, you will see a brownish cam. It has a spring around it.
Take a small screwdriver and move it to it's extent like a wheel. Let go and it should quickly return to where it was. It virtually snaps back to it's resting point. Do this several times. 5-6 If at any time it returns sluggishly then it needs to be oiled. 3 in 1 oil works great.
This takes time. I used a small jewelers screw driver to deliver the oil. As you oil it move the cam back and forth to work the oil to the shaft. Standing the unit on edge after you put the oil in the gap helps the oil get to the shaft.
If it now starts to snap back put the bulb cover back on and try the unit. If after 5-6 movements it still does not snap back each time then the actual motor shaft needs to be oiled as well.

Take the top off. There are several screws and one on the back. All have an arrow marking them. The cover is caught around the lens assembly. You have to be a little bit violent to get it off. After the cover is removed, you have to really look for the upper iris cam. It is under the large multi pin connector with brown wires on the main main display board. There is a small perforated metal cover under this connector.
After bending the cover up you will see the linear motor that drives the iris. There is a small flex cable going to it. You need to oil it's shaft. Use the same procedure to oil it as the cam under the unit. After oiling this shaft the iris should now snap back to rest every time. That's it.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

Motobias
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Faulty Panasonic Projector

90% that this is a bad psu !

had mine fixed today with used psu from ebay.
try to find a faulty pt-ae900 for a exchange psu !

60€ faulty projector + 60€ psu = 120€ for pt-ae900

hooray :)

cheers,

tobias

Posted on May 04, 2009

electronios
  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Panasonic PT-LB10U do not work lamp ok ballast

You have to replace the transistor Q107 on the board ETXM519MBGB
this is pnp type but i can't find it on service manual.So if you don't like to make experiments replace the board.

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

Testimonial: "awesome tech and aset to fixya.com well done"

caroldon
  • 17129 Answers

SOURCE: Panasonic PT-AE4000 Shuts off

This is a serious issue and It seems as though you have got a defective peice. Either the PJ was damaged when in transit or it was a faulty piece. The PJ could have a defective lamp because if it is trying to trip off on loading , then the chances are that the Lamp is taking intoo much current and tripping off the circuit. Since your PJ is brand new, if it is under warranty , you must take the privilege of free replacement of the part, than to try any repairs. What could be done is to check again for power connections faulty voltage. If not since the trouble shooting was ably done there is not much to check than to take this decision. You must ask them to give you extended warranty and claim for damages if they seems unhelpful. Hope you decide with my advice. Good day

Posted on Jul 26, 2010

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90% that this is a bad psu !

had mine fixed today with used psu from ebay.
try to find a faulty pt-ae900 for a exchange psu !

60€ faulty projector + 60€ psu = 120€ for pt-ae900

hooray :)

cheers,

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Normal 0 Im not sure if you are still looking for thesolution to this - i may have some info to aid, but im afraid its not acomplete solution!

Basically it sounds to me (as i have the same problem with the same unit) thatone of the LCD polarisers has melted. inside the light engine, beneath the motherboardat the very centre of the unit there are three screens, Red green and blue,measuring 22.86 mm diagonal (type 0.9). (there is no known part number - buton mine are the letters printed " TEEC5079 >PC< "
They are mounted on small plastic arm brackets and screwed/aligned meticulouslyinto place. if one of them melts (i.e. the coloured surface attached to themmelts)then you get colour problems and blob like bleeds on the image projection.My display was showing a purplish/bluish bleed on the screen, and when i checkedout the RGBs i saw that the red had almost completely burned and melted. Theglass was intact, it was the red surface that had melted.

Unfortunately it is EXTREMLY difficult to get one of these parts. I have beenon the phone to Panasonic at least 12 times, and also been in my local store. Ihave found that they:
a) don’t know anything about the part in question
b) don’t know the part number
c) are unwilling to talk to a single consumer (as this is a business product)
d) will likely forward you to a 3rd party electronics company (who will referyou back to Panasonic arghh!!)
e) Will pass you from call centre to call centre, from Britain to India
f) will not reply to emails, as i have sent 3 over a month ago

The only solution i can think of, and am currently attempting is to use a red camerafilter on the screen. (do a search for “cokin” or “hoyle” filters on ebay alongwith colour required)I have carefully removed the burned remaining residue fromthe LCD screen, so its just a clear piece of glass now. there are no scrapes (iused my fingers/nails as opposed to a tool, which could scrape the surface) andi cleaned the glass with a micro fibre clothe (you can get these from anyoptician)

I went out and purchased some camera filters - in my instance it was red. redis generally used for people taking black and white pictures - to add depths tothe spectrum. anyway i now have a bunch of red filters, some are gel - meaningthey are like plastic sheets that you can attach, others are glass. its now ajob of trying to accurately attach the filter to the clear screen (bare in mindthis thing is 22.86 mm) then refitting.

problems are - how to accurately attach the filter without any defects on thesurface (high temp oven glue perhaps? up to 260 degrees c)
-temperature - inside the light engine it gets really hot, so it is possiblethe filter may burn instantly

I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions on this matter. I have tried toattain this part abroad as well as at home - its near impossible.

many thanks in advance.

Paolo A
Glasgow

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