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I've replaced the computer on my kitchenaid kems378gss3 oven/microwave combo. I need the "codes" to key in on the keypad - to make the microwave actually "cook: things. Everything else works fine except the "timer set-start" key. (Brand new keypad.) The microwave worked perfectly before the comuter failed. Kitchenaid will not give me this information Thanks

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  • laurelton Mar 07, 2008

    Dear Microwave service, Thank you for your generous help. I've just taken the microwave section out of the oven/microwave combo housing to recheck the interlock switches.

    Re: my comment on PROGRAMMING: I was led to believe that you had to program the computer (via the keypad panel) to enable the magnetron. THAT'S what I was referring to. Am I wrong? Should I just be able to connect the new computer and it should work? I think I mentioned that EVERY function on the oven and microwave works - except the microwave doesn't cook.

    Also is there a way to tell whether the magnetron is bad? Do they just die or like US, do they just get weaker and weaker! ; )

  • laurelton Mar 07, 2008

    Triple checked door switches : ALL O.K. Diode high resistance one way, infinity the other, Magnetron Filament good -i.e. very low resistance (service lit stored in oven says THAT'S the way it should be) Fuses all O.K. ASll else that's left is the Magnetron OR some necessary programming that may be peculiar to Kitchenaid. Any last thoughts?

  • laurelton Mar 09, 2008

    Dear MicrowaveSrv and everyone. FIRST OF ALL.... thank you for your generosity in trying to help. Curiously the problem I was having was caused by by 2 IDENTICAL 4 pin plugs - with identical keyways - that I interchanged when re-assembling the unit. Since they LOOK identical it was an easy mistake. It is curious that Kitchenaid would do this. As I was checking and rechecking (with an ohmmeter) I discovered a number of "illogical" conditions which could ONLY be caused by wiring mistakes. Since I did **t alter any of the connections, this made ** sense. I **ticed that the color coding of the wires going to these identical plugs was arranged differently. (The color coding was in the diagram inside the microwave.) Putting the plugs back correctly solved the problem. (Replacement of the keppad and computer was still necessary, though I'm lucky the mixing these plugs didn't blow anything up! Thanks again. So I didn't need any codes afterall. Halellujah!



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If you don't have the owner's manual you can download it here:

Some units will not allow time programming if the door is open - or if the microwave thinks it is due to a bad door switch or door switch mount, etc.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

  • William Miller
    William Miller Mar 07, 2008

    > program the computer (via the keypad panel) to enable the magnetron

    There is a "control lock" function mentioned in the manual if the lock symbol is in the display. You hold the 3 / CONTROL LOCK key for 5 seconds to lock or unlock it.

    Other than that, you should be able to cook by even just pressing the EasyMinute / Start key with the door closed.

    Sorry that manual link didn;t show up right. Try here.

    Here's my stock answer for "no heat" conditions:

    Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

    - bad door switches or door switch mounts
    - loose connection at the magnetron
    - problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
    - bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

    If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:

    You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:

    Here are some good links for part testing:

    You must read & heed the safety warnings. Microwaves utilize and produce deadly voltages!

    We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.



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Litchenaid KEMC377KSS05 says DOOR and microwave wont start

follow the next step and use the common sense: God bless you
a stuck key or non-responsive key, most of the time you will have to replace the keypad for this microwave oven repair. If your keypad is connected to your control board by a flat ribbon wire, try disconnecting it and clean the silver contacts with an ordinary pencil eraser. After cleaning, plug it back in and try it. If it doesn't fix it, replace the keypad unit. Some units actually have keypad tests to confirm your diagnosis of a bad key.If your keypad and control is the same unit, replace that unit. Another note, unlike stove/oven keypads and controls, most microwaves do not have error codes or tests to distinguish whether it is truely the keypad or control. Most of the time, it is the keypad that needs replacing, but a small percentage of the time it can be the control. Check the tech sheet if they can point you to the right part.


Aug 03, 2012 | KitchenAid KBMC140HSS Convection/Microwave...


Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes

Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.

4 Digit Failure Codes

F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective

Two digit codes:

F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure

Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:

F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction

F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error

F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.

If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.


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Error code F2

The error code "F2" that appears on your KitchenAid microwave refers to a keyboard failure/short on the front button panel or loose keypad connector

Attempt the following to clear error:
Check keypad connector for firm connection.
Press "Cancel" after the error code is noted, if error code returns after 60 seconds, replace keypad ( also called touch pad or membrane switch ).

Best of Luck with the microwave.

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Kitchenaid microwave model KHMS155L, starts randomly for 3 minutes with "PAN" flashing on display screen, than locks up with "F-2" message on display screen

"F2" means you have a shorting membrane keypad. The "Pan Heat" key is shorting.

On these models, the membrane keypad is not available as a separate part, so you would have to order the control panel frame assembly which comes with a new keypad.

In this case, you simply move your circuit board into the new frame. That is a simple do-it-yourself job.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number* from the tag on the oven here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Then you unplug the keypad (as per the photo below) and move the circuit board into your frame.


Some connectors may have a lock:

* The exact part number you need will depend on your exact model number. Models in that series are shown below:


We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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I'm guessing the model number would be KEMS308GSS0.

In some cases, this is a glitch that can be cured by unplugging it for 1 minutes, then resetting the clock.

In other case, it may be a bad keypad (membrane switch) or control board.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET

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I started having the same problem with my KBMC140HSSO. You cannot see the error codes without disassembling the control panel (the codes are on another display that covered by the front panel). After doing so I found the error code to be F2, E3 which is "Key held down too long, or key shorted". I am ordering a replacement keypad and will report back if this fixes the problem.

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I've replaced the keypad and computer on my kems378gss3 Kitchenaid microwave oven/oven combo. Everything works EXCEPT that the microwave doesn't actually cook, and the timer set-start button doesn't work....

I would suggest to check all the connections from the new installed parts and double check your switches.
Have you followed the user guide from page 35 to try to unlock that key?
If still does not work, there may be two possibilties that the new keypad(timer set-start button) may not work or the magnetron is defective.
Check this link as well for some additional info.

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