Troubleshootin!!! My amp has perfect 12volt and secure ground, but when remote is powered up, amp doesn't kick on (remote has full 12 volt)

It sounds like you have constant 12volts applied to your remote turn on lead. The amplifier will have 3 connections for power:

1. 12volt constant
2. chassis ground
3. 12volt switched power - this wire should come directly from your head unit. It only sends 12 volts when the radio is on allowing to amp to power up only when the radio is on.

No. The LED should be off when the radio is off (amp turns off as well)

It sounds like you have constant 12volts applied to your remote turn on lead. The amplifier will have 3 connections for power:

1. 12volt constant
2. chassis ground
3. 12volt switched power - this wire should come directly from your head unit. It only sends 12 volts when the radio is on allowing to amp to power up only when the radio is on.

well this is what you do to check it to see if you bought a blown amp.
wire it into your car and then take a digital volt meter check to see if you have power and ground and remote turn on .


take the red lead and put it on the battery wire at amp and the black lead to the ground then see if you get 12volt to 14.4 use the amps ground for the black test lead if nothing you may have blown fuse or bad ground.

check the remote wire same way as about if you get 12 to 14.4 volt it works if not could be blown from radio or bad ground

checking the ground put the black meter lead on ground wire and the red lead on 12 volt power source if nothing a bad ground.

if your get voltage on the remote wire and battery wire and have good ground then you need to call the seller and get your money back ..

for a remote turn on you can use the acc off of the ing ( test 12volt when car is on befor crank goes to 0 during crank then comes back to 12 voltswhen car is running 12 volts also goes to 0 when ing is turned off and key is in off positon. 12 volts from the battery fused 12 inches from connection and ground. also are you using some sortof high level adapter for an audio signal( this would tap into left and right spks either front or rears and provde you with rcas for your amp

The Kicker 1000x1 Amplifier does not turn off if their is an Open Line (blown sub) on the Speaker Terminals.

1. Remove all Speaker Wiring from the Amplifier, leaving the Power, Ground, Remote, and RCA wires plugged in.
2. If the Amplifier fails to turn on, check your Remote wire for power.
3. If the Remote wire is powering up with the Head Unit (should be anywhere from 5-12 Volts), check your Power wire for +12 Volts, and check your Ground wire.
4. If you are getting +12 Volts Power and your Remote wire is putting out 5-12 Volts but your Amplifier still won't turn on, it will need to be serviced.
   

Checking wires doesn"t help unless you are checking them with a multi-meter. Amp needs 4 things to turn on. 1) 12volt power from battery, 2) 12 volt power from radio (remote turn on), 3) ground (solid ground to the chassis or the car free from paint or rust), 4) fuses on side of amp need to be good. If any of these 4 things don't measure up then fix them so they do. If all 4 are verified with the meter and still no lights then you might have a dead amp. If the lights are on but no sound, then there are many other things that needs to be checked.

Those electric seats have relays(for movement & heater element) and a sophisticated DPDT switch. Hooking up a 12volt supply won't work,,,not to mention 20amp 12volt power supply

12 VOLT FROM THE BATTERY SOURCE GOES TO 12VOLT BATT CONNECTION.12 VOLT GROUND RETURN MUST BE FIXED TO THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE.SOME VEHICLES HAVE FACTORY GROUNDS UP HIGH ON THE SIDES OF MOST VEHICLES, U CAN USE THIS GROUND LOCATION. IF CONNECT REMOTE WIRE FROM THE RADIOS REMOTE TURN ON LEAD WHICH IS A BLUE/WHITE WIRE OR A STANDARD BLUE IF ITS JUST ONE BLUE WIRE. CONNECT THIS LEAD TO THE REMOTE TURN ON CONNECTION ON THE AMP , SOME KENWOODS HAVE TWO ,INPUT AND OUTPUT LEADS.U ALSO NEED A TEST LIGHT, OR U CAN USE A SPEAKER TO TEST FOR POWER AT UR CONNECTION.IF U USE A TEST LIGHT , CLAMP THE END U WOULD GROUND TO THE VEHICLE, TO THE AMPS GROUND, THEN TOUCH THE PROBE END OF THE TEST LIGHT TO UR WIRED CONNECTION TO VERIFY U HAVE POWER AND GROUND TO YOUR CONNECTION.IF TEST LIGHT DOESN'T WORK ,CHECK UR FUSE AND REMOTE TURN OR LEADS.

Sounds like maybe you are not getting enough power to your amp. It sounds like you have a pretty powerful amp and it could be you don't have a large enough cable going back to your amp. If you have access to a volt meter then you could take a reading of your "12volt" power connection at the amp while stopped and amp running to see if you do indeed have 12 volts or better. If it is getting down to 11 or 11.5 volts then you will need to improve that. I have a saying that when you have a huge amp you must wire it as if you are trying to power your cars starter motor from the trunk and wire accordingly. And that means your ground connection too. Don't forget the ground connection from the battery to the car's chassis. Maybe this will help. Good luck.

Have you connected the remote wire from the stereo to the amp? assuming it has one.
If the stereo has not got a remote wire you can link it from the positive 12 volt on the amp to the remote connection on the amp, usually it's in between the ground connector and the 12volt.