Question about Standard (CRT) Televisions

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Mitsubishi TV hand me down

Got a Mitsubishi CS-27XM1 TV from a friend who recently upgraded. First off, the remote does not work. Batteries were replaced and checked internals for bad contacts etc. Not sure how to check if IR is bad. Got a universal Remote. It will power on off and enter some setup functions which are visible on the screen. I only have an coax antenna for reception and it works fine with my other TV. I can get the audio, switch channels but I have no picture. Mostly black but occasionally odd shaped blue things that buzz across the screen. I get no static at all when the coax cable is disconnected. I have no manual and worse, no money to buy one. Lastly, the product sticker on the back says it's a CS-27XM1. I peeled it off and underneath the TV casing was stamped with CS-2723R. Things that make you go hmmm. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

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  • Holden94 Mar 07, 2008

    bobbyJ,

    Is this an easy fix for someone with your experience? Not having Diagnostic tools needed for #1 is #2 reasonably straight forward if I had a schematic? Could you point to schematic for this? Thanks for your quick reply.

  • Edward
    Edward May 11, 2010

    Anyone have a broken PIP board they want to sell?


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  • 395 Answers

The problem you have is the video goes thru the pip board first and the pip board has a problem this is a known problem. the pip board has some capacitors that leak on the board. the model you mention is CS-27MX1 not XM1 but anyway the back casing was made for several sets of that size. so the pip is the problem and the bulletin is as follows;
1. NO MAIN VIDEO,THERE IS VIDEO IN PIP ON EXT1 AND EXT2:-CHECK FOR 1VPP OF LUMINANCE ON PIN 1 OF IC7000, IF MISSING OR LOW CHECK THE VALUE OF C7001 (4.7UF 35V), LOCATED ON THE PIP-PCB.THIS CAP MAY LEAK ELECTROLYTE ONTO THE BOARD AND OPENED A FEED THROUGH IN THE PATH BETWEEN C7001 POSITIVE LEAD AND THE EMITTER OF Q7003 OR CAUSE INTERMITTENT COLOR. PT#181P504090. 2. NO MAIN OR PIP VIDEO, CHECK CHECK C7014, 47 UFD 35V ON THE PIP PCB. PART # 181P502060 3. CHECK FOR 7.2V DC ON THE BASE OF Q7003,IF LOW OR MISSING.CHECK THE VALUE OF R7002 (150 OHM 1/10W).LOCATED ON THE PIP-PWB. PT#103P401050 you can by pass this by removing the pip board and jumping the VP connector pins 7 to 9 and 5 to 11

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

  • Robert Johnson Mar 07, 2008

    the repair of the pip board is not that easy. in most cases the electrolitic fluid corrodes the foil lands of the board so then it requires jumpers to fix the lands as well as replacing SMT type components. the easy way out is to bypass the pip board all together. this just means that the pip function no longer works. this set is rather old and new parts are no longer available. mitsubishi stoped making tube sets in 1999. the pip board is the board that is standing up and is connected to the main board by two connectors the VP conector and the VS connector. remove the board then cut the ground lead on the sheild of the pip board. on the foil side of the main board use a sheilded jumper and solder pins 7 to 9 and another wire to jumper pins 11 to 5 and your done. this is the easy way out.

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