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From having a Hotpoint myself, I can think of 2 possibilities.
Obvious answer would be electrical problem. If it trips the breaker you probably have a loose wire or a bad plugin socket. Did you buy a new "pigtail" plugin socket or did you use an old one when you got the stove? They say to buy a new one each time. If this is your first problem with this then your circuit can probably handle the load but see if the circuit that tripped says 30 or 40 amps. Also check to see if anything else is on that circuit besides your stove. There shouldn't be anything else on circuit. You may even have a bad circuit breaker but that seems less likely.
Second possibility is a bad baking element at the bottom of stove or bad heating element on top. When mine went bad, it made loud popping noises and sparks were flying. After that, the rest of the stove worked but not the baking element. I had to replace it for about $50.
My bet is on a loose wire. Be careful and unplug everything before you check! See if it's not fully plugged into the socket and see if the 3 or 4 wires coming from the thick plug wire are all tightly connected to your stove.
Hi Ron - From what you have described if neither the burners nor oven turns on make sure the electrical connecting is 240V. The oven light and clock portions only required 115V. The clock and oven light working may indicate an electrical circuit breaker supplying the range is tripped or a fuse is blown. Confirm household circuit is correct and the range cord is properly wired to the terminal block.
If it is only the oven that is electric and not the entire stove, the required wire size is 10/3 with ground and a 30AMP circuit breaker. If it is the entire stove then you need 50AMP range cable and a 50AMP breaker. If your doing your microwave also, you need a 20AMP breaker and the wire you need is 12/2 with ground.. If the current breaker you were running was 30AMP I would keep that for your oven and run new wire for your microwave.
Is the stove directly wired? The code says the wire coming from the breaker box should be connected to a four prong 50amp range receptacle. Then a 50amp four prong range cord from the receptacle to the range. There's a clip on the back of the stove that connects the neutral wire to the frame of the stove. It has to be removed and the green wire coming from the cord connected to a green screw on the stove to separate the neutral form the ground. Get a licensed electrician.
All of the items you mention that do work, are 120 volt items. All the items that do NOT work are 220 volt items. Sounds like you have a voltage problem, you will need to use a meter to check if you have 220 volts a/c to the outlet the stove plugs into. Take care when doing the following, you will be around live voltage and could get hurt. If you are uncomfortable working with a live circuit best to call someone in to do it for you. Check for 220v at the outlet for the stove (where the stove plugs into), if you have it there, go to where the cord attaches to the stove and check at that point. You should have either a 3 or 4 wire cord on the stove, On the rear of the stove there is a terminal block that the cord is fastened to. Between RED and BLACK you should have 220v, between RED and WHITE and BLACK and WHITE you should see 120v. Another thing to check is that the nuts holding the wires from the cord to the terminal block on the stove are turned down tight. A loose connection there will give you the same problem you have as well.
You should unscrew the small back panel, on the undercover should be a scetch of the wiring.
If not the three red are live, black is neutral and the g/y is earth, from number 5 to 1 connect as follows: 5 and 4-black,3,2,1 red and look for a screw type fitting or green wires to connect earth.
Its important to connect earth before operating the stove as it cuold lead to serious injury if not connected.
Hope this helps