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Dryer plug problem

I have installed a 220 dryer plug and when i test the back of the dryer i get only the 2 outside connectors that has power coming to the dryer cause i can put the tester to the middle wire and to the outside wire and i do not get any power . so what is the problem

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W to red be 120 volts w to b 120 volts red to black 240 volts if thats not there your breakers in the box are probley on the same leg are you are missing the common which is the white wire it should be on cord red to one side white in the middle red to the ather side if a 4th wire green is there needs to go to the green chasie ground

Posted on Mar 06, 2008

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1 Answer

How do I fix my dryer?


I suspect ur terminal block has a problem

Apr 12, 2015 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I flipped the breaker in my fuse box to my dryer off and back on while the dryer was running. now the dryer wont come back on. what could be the problem and is it easy to fix?


if the unit was working fine before you flipped the breaker off then i would say you have a bad breaker... it is possible for only half the breaker to fail and you would still have a light and possible even tumble on dryer but no heat.... turn breaker off again and snap back on may require a few trys and it may require replacement of breaker...obviously the correct way to test would be with a volt meter (ac current) and test at your dryer where it connects are you getting 220- 247 volts on the 2 outside terminal connections... if not your breaker or plug has failed.... good luck to you

Jan 19, 2011 | Whirlpool WED5300S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat,changed coils,plugged in and started,blew the breaker,reset breaker,the dryer runs but i still have no heat


Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.


1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.

2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.

3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.

4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.

5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.

6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.



Also check the bellow link related to your issue:-

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm


Please get back to us if you have any further query


Nov 30, 2010 | Estate EGD4300SQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My friend has dryer #LER4634JQ1,has had problems with power to the home,electician states one side of electric panel not getting current.Dryer has power,tumbles but won't heat,heating element tested OK....


Yes, an electric dryer requires 220VAC in order to heat.

I would recommend you begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). IMPORTANT: If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good at the terminal block with the dryer plugged in, you have an internal electrical problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. Replacement power cords can be purchased at any hardware store for about $20.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, which is tapped off the input voltage. The heating circuits require the full 220-240VAC in order to work. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will run, but won't heat.

Perform these steps and post back and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

Mar 11, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Changing 220 plugs need discription of positive and negitive to dryer


If you are installing a 3 prong cord , then the 2 outer wires , are the power lines , and the center is the neutral . On the dryer , the center wire connects to the white wire on the terminal block . The 2 outer cord wires . 1 connects to the black wire terminal on the block ( outside terminal ) , and the other outside wire , connects to the red ( outside terminal ) on the block . Its the same if you are installing a 4 wire cord , except the green , connects to the ground screw on the dryer itself .

Oct 25, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer model # 110.8483220. It has no power. We tested the plug and it tests for 110V of power, and the wire connection at the top of the dryer (on the outside) has power. But...


Your dryer is electric. This means it needs 2 electrical phases (hot wires) and one neutral to wor. If you measure 110v across 2 phases - one of them is out.
Unplug the dryer. Find the double breaker for your dryer on the breaker panel.
Pull breaker to the off position hard (do not overdo it,as you can pull the breaker out), and then back to on position.
Check voltage between the two phases, it should read 220-240v. Check the voltage between each phase and the neutral (middle prong), should read 110-120v. If you don't get these readings - call electrician.
If you get the proper voltage, plug the dryer back in. If it does not work - Dryer needs repair. Likely a thermal fuse is blown or problem with power wiring inside.

Oct 13, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8674 Dryer

3 Answers

Dryer want start


I am attaching the photos showing how the dryer cord for either a 3 or 4 prong outlet, since I don't know what type outlet you are using. Hope this helps and best wishes.

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Aug 04, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat


Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

Jul 30, 2009 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat and timer doesn't seem to turn


More than likely you have lost 1/2 of the 220 volts to your dryer. On the pigtail (thats the power connector) that plugs into the socket,Unplug it and check to see if the prongs are discolored, Clean them with steel wool, or a scouring pad. ( Don't use water) If that doesn't work check your fuse box, or breaker box. to make sure you have power to the socket. The power connector has 2 slits in it. One up and down, and 2 at angles. If you have a voltmeter, or a neighbor, check the voltage between the vertical slot and each of the slanted slots on the plug. You should have 120 volts ac on each. and 220v between the slanted slots. Unless you have a bad breaker, or one leg open by a bad fuse Your dryer uses one half the 220 or 110 for the motor, and the other half to run the timer, ect, and 220 for the drying element. with 1/2 of it gone only certain thing will work. If that doesn't work, you may have to turn off the power to the dryer outlet, clean or replace it. (Make sure the breaker is off, or fues are removed and check with a voltmeter that the circuit is dead before working on the outlet) , but I would almost bet that by wiggling and cleaning the plug will solve your problems for a while. Hope this helps.

Jul 25, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

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