Question about Dryers
I have installed a 220 dryer plug and when i test the back of the dryer i get only the 2 outside connectors that has power coming to the dryer cause i can put the tester to the middle wire and to the outside wire and i do not get any power . so what is the problem
W to red be 120 volts w to b 120 volts red to black 240 volts if thats not there your breakers in the box are probley on the same leg are you are missing the common which is the white wire it should be on cord red to one side white in the middle red to the ather side if a 4th wire green is there needs to go to the green chasie ground
Posted on Mar 06, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Apr 02, 2015 | GE Dryers
Jan 19, 2011 | Whirlpool WED5300S Electric Dryer
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1) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
2) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
3) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint build-up. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
4) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which 220 needs will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
5) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals; the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter its temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.
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