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Ide issues hard drive wont boot with cables connected but when i remove ide cable the hard drive kicks into life. have changed cable , replaced power supply and tried another hard drive but no change also reset cmos . no help. please help .

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  • speed1 Mar 07, 2008

    cant access hard drive or cd rom with data cables attached . only goes when i remove cable.cant access bios either . wont do anything except cpu fan spins .

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Create partiion and format hard drive.

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

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IBM thinkcenter says no os after installing DVD writer


Did you install a SATA or an PATA (IDE) drive?

First check that the data cables are connected to both the hard drive and the motherboard. (I know that I've frequently had the cables come loose from the motherboard on my ThinkCentre 8433 when I work in the case.) Also check that the power cables are firmly connected.

Next make sure that you have no disc in the DVD writer. (Or enter the BIOS by pressing F1 (IIRC) repeatedly on start up. Make sure that the hard drive is the boot disc.) While in the BIOS, you can check if the hard drive is recognized by the motherboard. If you don't see the disc listed, recheck the data and power cables.

If the hard drive was working before you replaced the dvd drive, you may have changed the master/slave assignment on the drives (if they are both IDE). Remove the drives from the computer and check the jumpers. (These will depend on the manufacturer. Use either cable select or master/slave as needed) The boot drive should have the jumper set to master or cable select. In the case of cable select, the boot hard drive should be connected to the black connector. The slave drive goes to the grey connector.

If you connected a SATA drive, try swapping the SATA ports (SATA 0 or SATA1) that has the optical drive connected to it.

The next thing to try requires either the Windows install or upgrade disc for your version of the OS (including the Service Pack) or a third party partition manager/repair utility disc. You'll need to reset the boot order to boot from the optical drive (or press F12 on starting the computer). Use the Recovery Console (for the Windows disc) to find any existing OS installs on your hard drive and attempt to repair the master boot record or boot sector if it still exists on the drive. Please add a comment with your OS for specifics on using the Recovery Console. (I replaced my WinXP with Win7 and the methods are different.)

You may have been unlucky and had the hard drive fail while you were working in the computer. See if the recovery partition (F10 on boot) still works or use your system image (Rescue and Recovery DVDs) will restore your computer to the last backup. Try doing the restore to a new hard drive if the recovery discs don't work.

I hope this helps. Please add a comment with any comments that will help me give more specific assistance for your missing OS.

Cindy Wells

Aug 09, 2012 | IBM PC Desktops

Tip

How to replace a hard disk drive.


Step 1: Back up and scout around
First, back up your critical files (don't forget your Outlook .PST archive) to optical discs, an external drive, or online storage. Then check whether a CD comes with the drive, providing drive-specific information and general upgrade assistance. It may also later help you copy the contents of one drive to another. Install this software first. Then, power down your PC, unplug all cables, and open the case. Next, ground yourself by touching a metal portion of the chassis.
Look inside—your first task is to determine where your new drive will go. Bays for internal drives are usually located below the wider, front-accessible bays that house CD or DVD drives. If you plan to replace your boot drive with the new drive and don't have an empty bay, your upgrade will involve more steps than we can cover here. But if you're replacing your boot drive and you have an empty bay, follow our steps for adding a second drive. After formatting it, use Norton Ghost (or a similar program) to clone your boot drive's contents to the new drive. Then, revisit steps 3 and 4 to direct your PC to boot from the new drive.
We'll be installing a SATA drive, but the process is similar for the other common drive type, IDE. SATA drives use a thin, seven-pin data cable; IDE drives use a 40-pin ribbon cable that's usually gray. If you're unsure which drive type your PC already has, check its documentation or label. Most PCs more than a year or two old employ IDE hard and optical drives, and don't support SATA unless they have a SATA PCI card installed. More-recent desktops may use (or just support) SATA drives but should support IDE, too.
Tip: If you transfer Windows XP from one drive to another, you may have to reauthorize Windows. Step 2: Examine data and power connections
Most hard drive kits include a data cable (SATA or IDE, depending on the drive), a power adapter cable (with some SATA drives), and screws. If yours doesn't include cables, you can purchase them separately.
First, the data connection. If you're installing a SATA drive as secondary storage, follow the data cable from your current drive (assuming it's SATA, too) to the other end. See if an unused SATA port lies nearby on the motherboard or an interface card. If you can't find one, consult your PC's documentation.
If you're adding an IDE drive as a second drive, you may be able to connect it to the same data cable as your primary IDE drive, or along with an IDE optical drive. Look for a third, free connector in the middle of the cable that connects your currently installed IDE drive to the motherboard. Note that some older PCs use 40-conductor IDE cables, not the 80-conductor ones current drives require. (Compare your kit cable to the one installed—the 80-conductor variety has much thinner wires.) 80-conductor cables are backward-compatible (both types use the same 40-pin connector), so you can swap out a 40-conductor cable for your kit's 80 if need be. (The "master" drive goes at the end—see step 3.)
Next, consider the power connection. Our SATA drive has a 15-pin SATA power connector. If you already have a SATA drive installed, follow its power cable (the wider of the two connectors) to see if an unused power-supply lead with the same connector is nearby. If so, earmark that lead for your new drive. If it can't reach the empty bay, see if any bundled adapters help.
Some SATA drives also support familiar legacy Molex four-pin power connectors—you can use a Molex or SATA connector. If so, hunt for a free Molex-style lead. Still no match? Then you'll need an adapter, such as a Molex-to-SATA adapter (some kits bundle one), or a Y-adapter that splits a lead in two.
IDE drives are simpler: They always use Molex connectors. You just need a free Molex-style lead (or a Y-splitter). Step 3: Mount and connect the drive
When installing SATA drives, jumper settings usually aren't an issue. That's not true of IDE, where a jumper indicates whether a drive is a primary ("master") or secondary ("slave") drive. Check its documentation for the proper setting. If your PC has only one IDE hard drive, it's probably set to "master." Assuming you chain another IDE drive off its cable, the new drive should be set to "slave." (You'll later have to change the jumper to "master"—and attach the drive to the cable's end—if you remove the original boot drive and make the new drive the boot drive.) Another option: Set both IDE drives on an 80-conductor cable to the Cable Select (CSEL) jumper setting. The PC will determine master/slave status according to the drives' placement on the cable ("master" at the end, "slave" in the middle).
Next, look at your current hard drive to see if mounting rails are attached to its sides. If so, screw a set onto the new drive (look inside the case for spares), then slide the drive into its bay. Otherwise, screw it directly into the bay. Four screws are sufficient. Usually, the label side points up; mimic the boot drive.
Attach one end of the SATA data cable (which is keyed for correct insertion) to a SATA port on the motherboard or interface card, the other to the drive. IDE data cables, also keyed, usually have a red stripe that lines up with the "pin 1" marking on the drive.
Next, plug the power-supply lead (keyed, too) that you scouted out in step 2 into the drive, including any necessary extender or adapter. Then close the case. Step 4: Configure the BIOS
Next, boot into your PC's BIOS-setup utility to verify that it recognizes the new drive and positions it correctly in the drive hierarchy. (Check your PC's startup screen to determine which key launches the utility.) Once there, also check that "auto-detect" is selected for the drives, if an option. If the utility lets you select the boot order, give your intended boot drive priority over any other hard drive. This information may be under Boot Options, Boot Order, or Boot Sequence.
Save changes and exit the utility. Your PC will reboot.
Tip: Using a SATA PCI interface card? It may have its own BIOS to check. Step 5: Partition and format your hard drive
Our PC runs Windows XP, which lets you partition and format drives within Windows. Older Windows versions, such as 98 and Me, make you do this from DOS.
With XP and 2000, though, use Windows' Disk Management utility. Click Start > Control Panel > Administrative Tools > Computer Management, and choose Disk Management from the tree at left. Your new drive should appear, with a black bar indicating it isn't partitioned. Right-click the bar, and choose New Partition to launch the New Partition wizard.
Click Next, and check that Primary Partition is selected; click Next again, to the Specify Partition Size screen (don't change the partition size in the "Partition size in MB" field); and click Next to advance to another screen, on which "Assign the following drive letter" should be selected. Click Next yet again (to the Format Partition screen), and ensure that "Format this partition with the following settings" is selected and that the "File system" drop-down reads "NTFS." Click Next a final time, hit Finish, and formatting begins.
Formatting could take an hour or more, depending on drive capacity. But don't be surprised if your formatted drive has less capacity than the package claims. A 320GB drive, for instance, formats to about 300GB. Drive manufacturers advertise preformatted size, but a portion of the drive is inaccessible.

on Jul 21, 2010 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

Primary slave drive fails


Go into the BIOS and make sure you are trying to boot from the Primary Master Drive first. If not, move the Master Drive to the 1st boot position.

If the above fails, you could just remove the power cord, remove the case and notice how the two drives are connected and remember it. There will be one cable that provides power to the drive from the power supply on each drive. Also, there might be one cable that connects both drive, or there might be one in each drive, etc. I would disconnect the power and cable on one of the drives and try rebooting. If it fails and you have one cable that connects both drives, try the other cable connection and reboot. If it still fails, then I would try doing the same thing with the other drive.

If all the above fails and your system has the IDE (whereas the cable has about a 2 inch end with about 20 holes that plug into the 20 pins on the hard drive) interface, remove the drive to check and see if the little pin on there along is set to Primary, Master or Cable Select. Normally on a two drive system they will be set to CS for Cable Select and the IDE Cable based on how it is plugged into the drives determines which is Master and Slave, but older systems might have the Master and Slave setup.

Apr 09, 2012 | Sony VAIO Digital Studio PCV-RS410 PC...

2 Answers

Trying to change out power supply on a Gateway DX4822-01. Can hear hard drive spinning, but not getting anything on screen. Unplugged it yesterday. Now wondering if one of the 4-pin needs top be...


Trying the easiest solution first - It sounds as if the power is getting to the hard drive, but the information is not getting to the computer.

Is the IDE/SATA cable attached to the hard drive AND the motherboard?

Are the connections tight?

Is one end of the cable reversed - does pin 1 on the hard drive correspond to pin 1 on the motherboard?

Are the jumper settings on the hard drive set properly - Master/Slave/Cable select?

Are you replacing an IDE hard drive (uses a wide thin ribbon cable) with a SATA drive (uses a narrow, fatter cable). Can your motherboard handle a SATA drive? Perhaps you are trying to install the incorrect hard drive?

Dec 24, 2010 | Gateway GT5220 PC Desktop

1 Answer

How do I add more memory to my dell dimension 3000 computer thatn has a 34 GB Harddrive?


Go buy an IDE hard drive of whichever size you want, and connect it to the IDE cable that your current drive is connected to inside the computer. If you don't want to reinstall windows, you'll have to either purchase a separate IDE cable and connect the new drive to another IDE port on your motherboard (IDE cables are the thin, flattned cables that are fairly wide) If your current IDE cable has a freed up connection, ensure that your drives are jumpered properly with the master/slave options that should be printed on the drive itself, with a diagram. Your main drive (34GB) should be the master, the new one set to slave - this will keep the computer booting off of your current hard drive. It may seem intimidating, but installing a new hard drive is easy once you open up the computer and start comparing parts, looking for your hard drive ports and power supply cables. Just make sure the IDE cable and the power supply cable are firmly attached to the new hard drive when you install it.(power supply cable usually has a white tip, with four loosely bound wires leading to it) I hope this helps!

Nov 18, 2010 | Dell Dimension 3000 PC Desktop

1 Answer

When started system says invald disk replace the disk,and then press any key


First of all check whether there is any CD in the Drive. If your system is configured with CD as first boot device, instead of Hard disk and there is non bootable disk in the CD tray this could happen. If you find a CD in the tray and removing it gets your computer to boot normaly, then change the first boot device to Hard disk in the BIOS. If this is not the case, check the power and IDE cable into the hard disk for any loose connection. Check the IDE cable at the hard disk end as well as the mother board side. If this also alright, you may want to check the hard disk for probable fault or corrupted operating system.

Feb 08, 2010 | HP Compaq Presario SR1110NX PC Desktop

1 Answer

Installation of a 2nd hard drive steps & tips


Step 1: Back up and scout around

First, back up your critical files (don't forget your Outlook .PST archive) to optical discs, an external drive, or online storage. Then check whether a CD comes with the drive, providing drive-specific information and general upgrade assistance. It may also later help you copy the contents of one drive to another. Install this software first. Then, power down your PC, unplug all cables, and open the case. Next, ground yourself by touching a metal portion of the chassis.

Look inside—your first task is to determine where your new drive will go. Bays for internal drives are usually located below the wider, front-accessible bays that house CD or DVD drives. If you plan to replace your boot drive with the new drive and don't have an empty bay, your upgrade will involve more steps than we can cover here. But if you're replacing your boot drive and you have an empty bay, follow our steps for adding a second drive. After formatting it, use Norton Ghost (or a similar program) to clone your boot drive's contents to the new drive. Then, revisit steps 3 and 4 to direct your PC to boot from the new drive.

We'll be installing a SATA drive, but the process is similar for the other common drive type, IDE. SATA drives use a thin, seven-pin data cable; IDE drives use a 40-pin ribbon cable that's usually gray. If you're unsure which drive type your PC already has, check its documentation or label. Most PCs more than a year or two old employ IDE hard and optical drives, and don't support SATA unless they have a SATA PCI card installed. More-recent desktops may use (or just support) SATA drives but should support IDE, too.

Tip: If you transfer Windows XP from one drive to another, you may have to reauthorize Windows.

Step 2: Examine data and power connections


Most hard drive kits include a data cable (SATA or IDE, depending on the drive), a power adapter cable (with some SATA drives), and screws. If yours doesn't include cables, you can purchase them separately.

First, the data connection. If you're installing a SATA drive as secondary storage, follow the data cable from your current drive (assuming it's SATA, too) to the other end. See if an unused SATA port lies nearby on the motherboard or an interface card. If you can't find one, consult your PC's documentation.

If you're adding an IDE drive as a second drive, you may be able to connect it to the same data cable as your primary IDE drive, or along with an IDE optical drive. Look for a third, free connector in the middle of the cable that connects your currently installed IDE drive to the motherboard. Note that some older PCs use 40-conductor IDE cables, not the 80-conductor ones current drives require. (Compare your kit cable to the one installed—the 80-conductor variety has much thinner wires.) 80-conductor cables are backward-compatible (both types use the same 40-pin connector), so you can swap out a 40-conductor cable for your kit's 80 if need be. (The "master" drive goes at the end—see step 3.)

Next, consider the power connection. Our SATA drive has a 15-pin SATA power connector. If you already have a SATA drive installed, follow its power cable (the wider of the two connectors) to see if an unused power-supply lead with the same connector is nearby. If so, earmark that lead for your new drive. If it can't reach the empty bay, see if any bundled adapters help.

Some SATA drives also support familiar legacy Molex four-pin power connectors—you can use a Molex or SATA connector. If so, hunt for a free Molex-style lead. Still no match? Then you'll need an adapter, such as a Molex-to-SATA adapter (some kits bundle one), or a Y-adapter that splits a lead in two.

IDE drives are simpler: They always use Molex connectors. You just need a free Molex-style lead (or a Y-splitter).

Step 3: Mount and connect the drive



When installing SATA drives, jumper settings usually aren't an issue. That's not true of IDE, where a jumper indicates whether a drive is a primary ("master") or secondary ("slave") drive. Check its documentation for the proper setting. If your PC has only one IDE hard drive, it's probably set to "master." Assuming you chain another IDE drive off its cable, the new drive should be set to "slave." (You'll later have to change the jumper to "master"—and attach the drive to the cable's end—if you remove the original boot drive and make the new drive the boot drive.) Another option: Set both IDE drives on an 80-conductor cable to the Cable Select (CSEL) jumper setting. The PC will determine master/slave status according to the drives' placement on the cable ("master" at the end, "slave" in the middle).

Next, look at your current hard drive to see if mounting rails are attached to its sides. If so, screw a set onto the new drive (look inside the case for spares), then slide the drive into its bay. Otherwise, screw it directly into the bay. Four screws are sufficient. Usually, the label side points up; mimic the boot drive.

Attach one end of the SATA data cable (which is keyed for correct insertion) to a SATA port on the motherboard or interface card, the other to the drive. IDE data cables, also keyed, usually have a red stripe that lines up with the "pin 1" marking on the drive.

Next, plug the power-supply lead (keyed, too) that you scouted out in step 2 into the drive, including any necessary extender or adapter. Then close the case.

Step 4: Configure the BIOS

Next, boot into your PC's BIOS-setup utility to verify that it recognizes the new drive and positions it correctly in the drive hierarchy. (Check your PC's startup screen to determine which key launches the utility.) Once there, also check that "auto-detect" is selected for the drives, if an option. If the utility lets you select the boot order, give your intended boot drive priority over any other hard drive. This information may be under Boot Options, Boot Order, or Boot Sequence.

Save changes and exit the utility. Your PC will reboot.

Tip: Using a SATA PCI interface card? It may have its own BIOS to check.

Step 5: Partition and format your hard drive


Our PC runs Windows XP, which lets you partition and format drives within Windows. Older Windows versions, such as 98 and Me, make you do this from DOS.

With XP and 2000, though, use Windows' Disk Management utility. Click Start > Control Panel > Administrative Tools > Computer Management, and choose Disk Management from the tree at left. Your new drive should appear, with a black bar indicating it isn't partitioned. Right-click the bar, and choose New Partition to launch the New Partition wizard.



Click Next, and check that Primary Partition is selected; click Next again, to the Specify Partition Size screen (don't change the partition size in the "Partition size in MB" field); and click Next to advance to another screen, on which "Assign the following drive letter" should be selected. Click Next yet again (to the Format Partition screen), and ensure that "Format this partition with the following settings" is selected and that the "File system" drop-down reads "NTFS." Click Next a final time, hit Finish, and formatting begins.

Formatting could take an hour or more, depending on drive capacity. But don't be surprised if your formatted drive has less capacity than the package claims. A 320GB drive, for instance, formats to about 300GB. Drive manufacturers advertise preformatted size, but a portion of the drive is inaccessible.

Dec 27, 2009 | HP Pavilion a1410n (ER890AA) PC Desktop

1 Answer

Hard drive problem


Although I covered most of the ways to speed up Windows boot time in another article, I encountered a unique roadblock recently that made me write this article. 
During the last week I was asked by a customer to upgrade one of their office computers from Windows 98SE to Windows XP. Normally this is pretty standard, however because their current hard drive was only a 20GB with a gig or so remaining I wanted to upgrade their hard drive as well. 

I proceeded to ghost the drive to a larger hard drive and then installed an upgrade version of Windows XP on top of Windows 98 to preserve all of their settings and programs.

Everything went flawlessly, until I was finished...

  


After I completed the Windows XP upgrade, I shut down the computer completely and restarted it. The computer took FOREVER to boot into Windows XP. It was literally 2 minutes before I saw the Windows XP logo screen and another 30 seconds more before the desktop appeared. This was definitely a problem. 

After checking multiple settings in the BIOS, I compared the old and new hard drives. Everything seemed to be normal, except one. The old hard drive was setup to Cable Select and as my normal routine I had set the new hard drive as a Master drive. I changed the new hard drive to Cable Select, rebooted the computer, and the Windows logo screen came on seconds after the POST screen as before. Therefore, I have to add one more item to my list of ways to make Windows boot faster. Try changing the hard drive from Master to Cable Select, check the boot up speed and switch back to Master if you don't see a change.

Master/Slave Settings

Now for a refresher course on hard drive connections. When connecting more than one hard drive to a computer on the same IDE controller, you generally have to assign one as the primary (master) and one as the secondary (slave). You do this by changing the jumpers on the hard drive next to the power connector. Normally, the drive will have a diagram to let you know which jumper should be set for a master drive and which to set for a slave drive. You'll notice in the picture below the jumpers are circled on the end of the drive and the top of the drive shows the diagram to follow.



After changing the jumpers, connect the hard drive cable from the motherboard to the hard drives. Under normal circumstances, the end of the drive cable attaches to the Master hard drive, while the inside connector on the cable connects to the Slave drive. 

What About Cable Select?

Cable Select (CS) settings were designed to make it easier to connect hard drives because you didn't need to bother with setting the Master/Slave jumpers. You just connect the drives and depending on where you connected them to the cable the computer would know which is Master and which is Slave...in theory. Now comes the confusing part.

With cable select, you first needed a special 40 conductor IDE cable that would determine master/slave connections. This was different from the normal IDE cables at the time. Also, the Master connector on CS cables was the inside connector not the end connector. This made for a very confusing switch from everyday master/slave configurations.

80 conductor Ultra DMA cables WILL determine the Master/Slave settings through Cable Select however. So as technology advances, Cable Select as a concept may still catch on. With the newer Ultra DMA cables, you can set both drives to Cable Select (CS), connect them and they will work. Another change with the 80 conductor cables, the Master connector is on the end of the cable where it should be. In situations where you are using a newer Ultra DMA drive and cable, you can use Cable Select or standard Master/Slave jumper settings and the drive will boot properly.

In my scenario to start this article, the change from Master/Slave to Cable Select for this particular computer reduced the Windows boot time by more than 2 minutes.

For more information on Master/Slave settings versus Cable Select visit the following pages:

Mike's Hardware: How to Connect IDE Hard Drives

Configuration using Cable Select

UnixWiz.Net: Using IDE Cable Select

Oct 18, 2008 | PC Desktops

1 Answer

Boot sevice


Did you mess around with the settings in your BIOS? If you did, make sure the boot settings are such that your computer tries to boot from your hard drive as the first or second option. It seems you might have changed the setting so your computer tries to boot from the network instead.

If that's not the issue, is your hard drive currently being recognized when the computer is started? What Realtek products do you have? I assumed the Realtek product is your Network Interface Card (the one that you connect an ethernet cable (one that looks like a phone cable except bigger) to, also called an NIC).

Make sure you didn't disconnect any cables that were previously connected when you installed the video card. Specifically check the IDE or SATA data cables that connect your hard drive to the motherboard, and the power cable that's connected to your hard drive.

Jan 09, 2008 | PC Desktops

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