My Kenmore 400 turns on, tumbles but does not heat up. What could be the problem
I am assuming this is an electric only (not gas) dryer, as I cannot find any tech data on your specific model. This is a general troubleshooting guide for heat issues with electric dryers, going from the most common to least common solutions:
**Standard disclaimer--voltages in a dryer (or any AC connected appliance) are high enough to kill you. If you don't know what you are doing, or have any difficulty understanding what I am saying....STOP and call a professional.
With that being said....
1. Test the power supply feeding the dryer and make sure that both 120 volt legs are getting power in reference to the neutral wire. Check between them (red wire to black wire) and check for 240 volt power. A bad breaker or partially failed 240 volt circuit may still provide power for the motor (which only uses one 120 volt leg) but not the heating element, which uses both 120 volt legs to make 240 volts for the heating element. Be sure to check both the receptacle and the terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer.
2. With the dryer unplugged, and the heating element disconnected, check for continuity between the heating element terminals. You may also be able to visualize the heating element coils if you remove it from the dryer. Most elements are held in place by one small sheet metal type screw, in case you need to remove it.
3. Check for continuity on the thermostat and thermal cutoff switch on the dryer. These parts usually are about 1.5" across and are screwed into the metal housing for the heating element. When the dryer is cool, both of these parts should have continuity. Remember to remove the wires from at least one of the terminals before checking continuity. These parts may look similar. If you have a defective one, google the part number stamped into the side of the part to determine which one is which. They are NOT interchangeable.
4. If all of this checks out ok, you will need to check for power coming from the timer to the heating assembly with the power on. The thermostat, thermal cutoff and heating element are typically wired in series. The two wires coming from the timer area down to the heater assembly should have 240 volts between them when the dryer is powered on and in a heating cycle. Once again BE CAREFUL IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. IF IN DOUBT, READ THE WARNING ABOVE.
Your dryer may also have a switch to control the heat intensity, independent of the timer. If it does, check that as well.
Good luck, and I hope this helps!
Feb 21, 2012 |
Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer