Washer is about five years old and will not aggitate or spin clothes out but punps water out. I noticed that the spin cycle was leaving the fabric softener in the container first and now the clothes are not spinning out but the water is.
Crokjcc: If your washer fills up and pumps waterout properly, but doesn't spin, it is most likely the "Motor Coupler". This is a plastic and rubber piece that links the motor to the transmission. It is inexpensive to replace, and a fairly easy repair.
A google for "Maytag motor coupler" might get you some more verbose instructions, but here goes.
First, unplug the washer. Getting electrocuted, while entertaining for others, is unpleasant. Next, Remove the washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the base of the control panel, tilting the control panel up, and unclipping the 2 bronze-gold-looking spring clips. The metal cabinet should be free to pivot towards you and be moved out of the way.
Near the floor at the front of the washer you will see the motor. It is in a "sandwich" with the motor between the transmission and the pump. A number of flat spring clips and a bolt or two hold the sandwich together. Snap the clips off and remove the pump. Another couple of snaps and you should be able to slide the motor out. The broken triangle thing is part of the coupler, and the rest is still stuck on the front shaft of the transmission.
Here is a picture of a coupler. This may or may not be the one for your model, I didn't check.
J_carey, this is probably NOT your issue, since this_usually_ causes it not to spin or agitate. Yours sounds more expensive to fix.. :(
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Possible that the belt is slipping and also there is some issue with the agitator as the gaps within seems to bring up the dirt or grease mix to the clothes. So it is important to remove the panel and check the play on the belt, replace if the play is high and check if the agitator bearings are worn out. If so the agitator assembly must be taken out and checked.
if it's a top-loader, then the water level sensor is probably failed! if an older machine- there's a plastic tube (which you can't see from the outside) that measures the column of water in the tub of your machine, and triggers the agitate and spin, and rinse cycles of your machine. when it's in wash cycle the water level is lower, then it spins and drains and the rinse cycle pumps in more water (makes sense!), then drains & spins, then re-rinses at the same water level. your water level sensor is defective, probably. allowing it to over-fill. it detects the water level as 'spin' and doesn't agitate! my theory- no guaranty! if it's old get a new washer or a good used one! this is not a problem i've encountered, just a guess. good luck!
without knowing more details, and considering it's age , my guess is that you have a disconnection (or a loose wire) to the solenoids under the tub. these solenoids activate the clutch system that pulls it into agitate and spin modes. it might be the solenoids, but rarely do both go out at the same time. it might be the timer contacts or connections behind the control panel. or, it might be the timer its self.
try unplugging the unit and check all the connections.
hope this helps jay
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.