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If you have a newer style programmable thermostat there are batteries in the thermostat that need replacing. Otherwise look at the thermostat wiring. If you have a voltmeter. check for 24 volts ac on the terminal with the red wire and the one marked C. If no voltage is there either a fuse is bad or the 24 volt control transformer is bad.
Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.
I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.
Again I have been getting Fault Code 08 "Gas Interruption" however the heater was lighting OK and then going out after about a minute or so. In the end I found 2 distinct heater faults.
Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.
At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!
Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
The heater was cycling 3 times to get going and then locking out, requiring a reset from the touch thermostat or heater controller board. Sometimes the heater would achieve a onging burn for a long period, and other times just locking out after 3 tries.
Careful observation of the flame, through the observation holes after it lit, showed correct flame sensing but as soon as the nominal 65C duct temperature was reached the combustion fan (modulates) throttles back too far and the flame goes out, the flame sensor switches off and gas valve is then closed. The pressure differential across the burner manafold controls the Gas flow rate so if the combustion fan goes too slow the flame goes out due to lack of gas.
On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.
Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.
Hope this helps someone else - It took me over a year to solve this one. NeilP
for a quick test -- remove the wires from the thermostat and see if the heater shuts off then,,, if it does shut off then the problem is the type ( model ) of the thermostat and it may not be compatible with that heater or there is something wrong with the way that the thermostat is wired. ( make sure that the thermostat is reading the correct temperature and is in fact in the off position ). also double check the wire color code at the heater and make sure that the right wires are connected proper.
what model is the thermostat ?
The Braemar heater I have is wired directly to the control unit. The only way to reset the time is to turn of the heater for 5 minutes - the remote display should clear, and turn it back on (takes a minute for remote to come back on) the time will be flashing - use the Up and Down arrows to set the time, and SET button to set the day of week.
For Trane sytems, B is your "Common" wire. O is your reversing valve relay, G is your fan, Y is your compressor contactor, R is Hot, Brown will not be used on your electronic tstat. X2 is your backup electric heaters. Without knowing what terminals are on your new tstat, I cannot offer more information than this. The installation manual may indicate what each terminal is controlling. I strongly suggest to write down ALL of the terminals and colors from your old t-stat and be sure to turn off the power to your air handler. Put the fan switch on your tstat to ON before turning off the power. Make sure the fan is running. Then turn the power off to your Air Handler. If your fan stops running, you have turned the power off to your tstat and are ready to start replacing it with your new tstat. I hope you find this helpful. Good Luck!!!
It is more than likely the touch pad that is faulty. I have installed many bonaires, and the only thing to go wrong at that age is the touch pad, or the problem is in the control box in the airconditioner.
The touch pad comes off quite easily by placing something flat behind the pannel and leavering it off gently. The touchpad has two pieces, the front, which you see, and the mounting bracket. The bracket is almost as big as the front pannel, so you only have approx 2-3mm of plastic edge to lever, so be careful not to hook onto the mounting bracket as well.
Once you have removed the front, you can then unplug the lead coming from the touch pad (be sure to turn the control box off in the airconditioner before removing this wire, there is a switch on the side of the control box (yes, you have to get on the roof, sorry)). Take the touch pad to your local retailer that sells Bonaire units and see if that is the problem.