I have 1 spl 12 inch 2200 watt sub and a 800 watt mono block ma audio amp i was bassin and the sub just quit. my amp has over heated before so i thought that was it. wrong amp was cold to the touch. thought is was the sub wiring not that. could it be rca jacks or is the sub blown need help starting to get angry at it
A friend of mine has a legacy amp i think its the 4000 watt version and has 8 gauge running to it with 2 12 in cadence super tx subs and the subs are bridged to 4 ohm on the amp and the amp will shut off all of a sudden when he changes songs or just in the middle of the song any ideas
If what you're telling me is correct you're trying to drive a stereo sub -woofer with a mono amplifier. If so, that could be a bad situation for the amp, if the voice coils are not wired together correctly. Before we go too far, I have some questions I need answered. 1. Is the MA unit an M1889i? 2. Do you have the 4 terminals of sub-woofer tied together. For example the 2 positive terminals are tied together & the 2 negative terminals are tied together? 3.How do you supply 12VDC to the amp?
While I'm waiting to hear back from you, I'll try to draw a schematic (wiring diagram) of the way it should be wired for your particular setup that I'll send to you.
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re-check the speaker connections are correct and use a matching ohm test speaker on the other connections for a sound check. Sounds like hi frequency output into the sub amp. Sub-woofers are a mono signal!!
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Oct 13, 2012 - 12 posts - 1 author
I'm new to both the forum and somewhat new to car audio in general so please excuse any ... So i need a great sub and amp to complement them for around $500. ..... other subs for under 200 bucks id rther have over type r
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mono block anps are usually rated at lower impedance.
if your subs are dual 4 ohm , i'd wire all v/cs in parallel for a 1ohm load... unless the amp is all chromed up, than that rating is probably a WLS rating(when lightning strikes)... if the box says anaba group it typically does half of what it advertises.. :-(
Fo (Hz) : 29.581
QMS : 3.965
QES : .517
QTS : .457
VAS (liters) : 147.723
REVC (Parallel-Ohms) 1
SPL @ 1 watt/ 1 meter (dB) : 90.6
X-Max Linear peak-peak (mm) 70
LEVC @ 1kHz (mH) : 1.043
Enclosure Volume (Sealed) : minimum 2 cubic feet
Fill Required % : 0
3dB down point (-3dB) : 43
maximum sealed: 2.5 cubic feet n fill required: 39 at 3 dB down point
Enclosure Volume Ported
Vented (cubic feet) : 5.0
Vented to Hz: 35
3dB down point (-3dB Hz) : 28
Square port area Sq/In : 80
Port Length : 13"
Power Handling : 2000 Watt RMS & 4000 Watt Max.
Make sure to use MDF for the enclosure and use 1 inch thickness and use braces as well.
This is a beast of a sub woofer. So give it the proper power it needs and make sure that your box is very solid in construction.
If installed correctly and given the right power, this sub woofer is bound to put a smile on your face and rattle your bones.
I hit 142dB with only one of these subs and im sure if i gave it more power i could hit the 150dB range. DON'T FORGET TO GIVE IT THE POWER IT DESERVES.
Hi mate very nice amp you got there here is the specs for it
Model: MA Audio HK401SX
Hard Kore Series 1800 Watt 1 Channel High Performance Class
X Car Amplifier
1 x 1800W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Mono
1 x 1200W RMS
@ 1 Ohm Mono
1 x 650W RMS @
2 Ohm Mono
1 x 500W RMS @
4 Ohm Mono Fully Unregulated MOSFET Power
Supply 2 Ohm Stable @ Mono 1 Ohm Stable @ Mono 0.5 Ohm Stable @ Mono
if you have 2 12s just bridge them and you will have 650wrms at 2ohm running to them or one sub at 4 ohm 500w rms ps they should pump iam running 2 12s with just 360rms at 2ohm and they do the job good luck