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Re: Can I repair this problem myself?
You could do it but you would need the service manual to be able to do the tube and lens alighnment. You have to align the tube and lens before you can adjust convergence, and if you dont alighn properly you will kill your convergence ICs trying to compensate. If you would like me to post a link where you can get the manual let me know.
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The "D" board is the main circuit board assembly containing most of the set's power and deflection circuitry. It's the board that typically causes most of the problems because there's so much on it. Unfortunately, this board is no longer available from Sony as a part, and must be repaired to the component level. Many shops don't want to (or can't) get into that depth of repair, so they quote a high price on board replacement. There is no single part you could order to repair this board yourself, I'm afraid. There are some companies in the business of repairing boards, but you're still looking at $200 to $300. With the price of a 32-inch LCD set now around $300 to $400, there's no point in trying to fix a TV when it's just a few dollars more for replacement.
If this is a CRT-type rear-projection TV, the CRT coolant fluid is probably broken down. It's supposed to be clear, but after a long period of TV operation, it turns a yellow-brown color. If you unplug the TV and remove the back, you can look into the tops of the three picture tubes. They should be a clear red, green or blue color, with no yellow-brown tint.
CRT coolant can be changed, but you need to be very good at mechanical work to do it. Besides the safety considerations (picture tubes and other parts may carry a high voltage charge even when the set is unplugged), spilling broken-down coolant on electronics is usually disastrous, so you have to be very careful.
LCD panels used in projector applications may lose contrast if they are overheated (this can be caused by failure to keep the vents clean as recommended in the owner's manual).
You would have to provide your set's model number to get more specific information.
You need to change the glycol in the Blue CRT. To be honest... this is one of the most miserable jobs you could ever want to do. You need to pull out the blue CRT, remove the drain plug, empty the glycol, disassemble the mechanical seal, clean the scale off the CRT and C lens, reassemble the mechanical seal, refill with glycol, install the drain plug, install the CRT in the TV and then, re-converge the TV. Sound fun?.. it's not. The first time I did one of these the glycol leaked all over the place and destroyed the TV. Also, glycol is just nasty... slops up your hands and your tools and your work area. If you tackle this, good luck to you. You can get the glycol from MCM Electronics. I hope this was insightful, best wishes.
First of all,this is a major labor intensive repair on Philips TV's changing the blue CRT because the new CRT does not come with the coolant that is sealed between the lens and the tube.If you have never done this type of repair before you should not attempt. Changing the convergence board is one thing (you can solder in two STK392-120 IC's and repair the board instead)
but changing the CRT's can be a nightmare.If you are brave go to PARTSTORE.com and get the parts $600+ (I would order the service manual too...you will need it)
Check the info from this website on how to remove shorts from CRTs. This is not a DIY for sure.
The CRT you can remove it yourself, just be very careful when removing the high voltage wire that is connected from the HV trippler to the CRT anode. The CRT anode cable stays with the CRT.
On projection TV's there are three tubes red,blue and green. It sounds like the green driver transistor is open. Check for loose connections or cold solder joints on the crt board at the back of the green tube.