The first photo turns out WONDERFUL crisp & clear
then the very next photo looks like its taken by a drunken sailor at high wind. this mostly happens when i use the digital display for the photo, not when i use the oldschool view finder...
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have an 5D with the same problem, It looks like the Anti shake does not initialize properly, The only bypass I found that worked (except for a real repair) is to set the display light timeout for 5 seconds, The standby timout for 1 minute, Turn the camera off, and on again, Wait for 5 sec then the display goes blank, wait for 1 minute then the camera goes in standby, (light from CF card flashed red 1 time) Then touch any button to re-activate the camera and... voila... everything works, including taking normal pictures and the anti-shake !!! So it only takes a minute everytime to startup..
Hello mcginnty and zeekachu. Here's your link. Olympusamerica.com or Consumer Division Tech Dept. 800-622-6372 8 AM through 10 PM EST Monday through Friday. Outstanding customer support. ( rare in this day and age )
Also make sure you go to the FE-280 site at the above link and register your camera. Olympus will extend your warranty by one month and give you a discount on any accessories. Regards, Paul
The odds are you have a broken spring in the anti-shake assembly which has allowed the lens unit to shift to one side. The smudge you are seeing is the edge of the lens housing and will have a slight rounded shape. As you zoom in, you are extending the lens past this area so it no longer shows.
I have had the same problem and tried messing with the settings and found that if I used these two buttons ( IOI ) & the right click button, next to the menu button (it has a circle with a line and a dot in it) that my pictures seem to look better. But, I am not an expert, so I have to try different things for each picture ( I never had a manual), and am not sure what these buttons are for but them seem to help with the blurry pictures I was getting. I hope this helps. Konna
If you are using Glossy paper, when you go to print make sure to go into the printer Properties from the Print dialog box and select Glossy paper in the type. This will put the printer into it's highest print quality mode.
So from most windows applications, it would be :- CTRL-P (to print with dialog box for changes) Click on Properties Select a Media type of glossy photo paper Select standard or high print quality.
p.s. you may need to experiment which if the media types gives you best quality for the paper your using, unless it's Canon paper and then just match it up.
The speed is selectable from 3 types at the continuous advance.
Continuous advance: Single shot AF: max. 1.8 fps (live view and anti-shake are activated for each frame. TIFF image cannot be taken), continuous AF: max. 1.9 fps (live view, AF, AE, anti-shake are activated for each frame. TIFF image cannot be taken.)
Hi-Speed continuous advance: max. 2.7 fps (Anti-shake is activated for each frame. AF, AE, WB, and live view are fixed at the first frame. TIFF image cannot be taken.)
UHS continuous advance: 7 fps. (Image size is fixed at 640x480. AF, AE, and WB are fixed at the first frame. TIFF and RAW image cannot be taken. Digital zoom disabled.)
Actual speed may vary depending on the subjects and shooting conditions.
* Three frames can be taken continuously in normal and Hi continuous mode.
*In UHS mode, the images can be taken as much as possible to the limitation of the storage capacity. For reference, STD: 180 frames, FINE: 160 frames, X. FINE: 100 frames (approx.).