Last month my apt had no heat and the place became like an icebox. my table felt like the fridge just to lean on. i was using my laptop for a while during that time, then all of a sudden it would not switch on . i see the little light bleep but it would not turn the laptop on. i went to the store and the guy tries to sell me a new laptop as i paid 250bucks for this one before. but i said no. i tried to boot it with a charge batteries it did not turn on either. i think condensation or something must been the cause. because right after it happen, i put it in the sun through my window and it turned on and works for a couple of times . i used it for about several hours. turned it off and it works again, then it stopped working.
if this is due to condensation, would it not be ok now that i have heat back in my apt for a month already and i kept the laptop close enough to make sure it is warm?
can i do something myself. like open it up and change the switch? it's useless to me anyway. so if i bugged it up in the effort, i lose nothing. i just don't want to end up paying another 200 dollars for another laptop. in fact, i spent another 200 buck to buy a desktop. it's not only much faster, it's sturdier and does a lot more than the lame laptop.
but it would be nice to get it working so i can use it if i am travelling again.
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ur defrost terminator is bad and is not going into defrost cycle? and this will stop the fan from circulating the cold air. the heat is only suppose to last up to 20-30 minutes then back into defrost mode? if the defrost timer is bad heres a trick u can use that may get u back into defrost mode, locate the defrost timer in ur fridge usually at top center. then under the timer u will see a tiny slot or hole. if u stick a small screw driver into that hole and turn slowly clockwise till u hear it click? i, it will now go into defrost and u should hear the fan and the compressor go off , hope this helps let me knoiw if u have any more questions, lastly I suspect its not ur timer but ur defrost terminator> meaning is will not allow it to go into heat defrost. its easy and relatively inexpensive.
Your defroster inside the fridge may not be doing a good enough job to keep the drain from freezing up. Check to see if the drain pan is frozen over in the freezer section. I took the cover off the inside of the freezer and wrapped a piece of uninsulated 14 gauge solid copper wire around the heating element and pushed one end down the inside of the drain tube and wrapped the other end around the heating element. No problems since.
refrigerator (commonly called a "fridge") is a cooling apparatus. The common household appliance comprises a thermally insulated compartment and a heat pump-chemical or mechanical means-to transfer heat from it to the external environment (i.e., the room in which it is located), cooling the contents to a temperature below ambient. Cooling is a popular food storage technique in developed countries and works by decreasing the reproduction rate of bacteria. The device is thus used to reduce the rate of spoilage of foodstuffs.
A refrigerator maintains a temperature a few degrees above the freezing point of water. Optimum temperature range for perishable food storage is 3 to 5 °C (37 to 41 °F). A similar device which maintains a temperature below the freezing point of water is called a "freezer".
The refrigerator is a relatively modern invention among kitchen appliances. It replaced the icebox, which had been a common household appliance for almost a century and a half prior. For this reason, a refrigerator is sometimes referred to as an "icebox
The fluxating temps bottom to top and top to bottom freezing are a result of the "air damper and baffle assy" not functioning properly. I would attempt fo make my case with LG that this started while the unit was under full warranty and persists today.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp ..
I have had to install a mullion heater on problems of this nature and it will solve the problem forever. Check with your local appliance parts dealer and tell them your problem and they will fit you with the correct heater size and instructions. It can be wired to stay on all the time as it is a small output of heat that will not effect your temperatures inside the box and will cost very little to have in use each month
you do have a switch at the top door hinge . make the phillip screw are tight at the top of the door . if they are loose the door will not align in order make contact with that switch. or you may have a faulty light switch
Found a fix for my issue ... hopefully it'll help you. Up at the topleft rearmost corner of the fridge remove panel to reveal spring attached slots where cold is supplied from freezer. The spring attached had came off one end as there isn't a "slot" for the spring to hold in place (design fault?).Reattached the spring and taped on .... and hey presto fridge now working perfectly again. Hope this helps.
Sounds like your defrost system isn't working. There is a timer that turns off the compressor and fans then turns on the heater under the coils to defrost them. The defrost bi-metal thermostat could be "open" and not letting power to the heat element, the heat element itself could be bad or the defrost timer could be bad, that's about it for the defrost cycle system. I see this quite a bit and it's "usually" the adaptive defrost timer. Under the fridge kickpanel in the front is some paperwork and troubleshooting sheets. I think this model you push the light switch in 5 times in 10 seconds to force a defrost cycle for testing. With the unit running (compressor, evap fan, condensor fan all running) in a normal cooling cycle open the fresh food door and press the light switch in 5 times within 10 seconds. If all the compressor and fans turn off right away then the adaptive defrost board is OK and it's the heat element or bi-metal. I'll bet it's the adaptive defrost board though... here's a diagram of where it is and where to get one. It's REAL easy to get to and change out (then test as above).