Fridge temp is set on 1 and milk and eggs are still freezing.

probably will freeze as fridge settings get colder with the lower numbers
1 is close to freezing and 4 is probably where a fridge setting should be

first run the diagnostics on the unit from the tech sheet inside the unit,then if thermistors are bad replace these there are 2 one on the left and one on the right wall in both fridge and freezer,if good per diagnostics then replace the electronic damper door located between the fridge and freezer compartments in the upper left hand corner of the fridge behind the plastic grille as these doors break and jamb open or shut and the temps can no longer be regulated during the diagnostics tests you can hear this door operate if its operating correctly,lastly,if these fail to solve your problem,replace the main control board in the back behind a panel

1 setting on a fridge is as cold as it can get so it will be close to freezing
should be set on 4 or 5
next if it still is freezing then the thermostat is failed and you will need to replace it

if its at the highest setting, i.e., the largest number or letter, you have it at the COLDEST setting, and it will freeze in the refrigerated secion. Reset all controls to normal, which is the middle setting. so if your scale range is 1-9, middle setting would be 5, if scale is A-E, middle is C and so on.
After you reset controls, it will take 24 hours for temps to balance themselves out. Your food may take longer to thaw out, so dont go buy whether food is still frozen, instead place a thermometer in the center of the fresh food side. your fridge temp should be in the 35-40°F range. If after 24 hours your fridge section is still below 32, Then you do have a problem, but LG is not a simple unit to diagnose, impossible to do without inspection.

www.FixMyFridge.net

Since you said the water supply is shut off, the likely culprit is a clogged drain tube that connects the defrost tray to the water collection pan for evaporation at the bottom of the fridge.

The source of the clog is usually either mold growth or more likely, ice build up. Regardless of which, if you access the defrost heater in the freezer section, you can thaw ice that has collected in the tray and if needed, use a turkey baster to direct a hot stream of water at the point the hose attaches to the tray and treat the hose for mold, below.

Once cleared of ice, mix a small amount (5 or 6 oz) of water and 1/2 to 1 ounce of bleach and direct down the tube to kill any mold / growth. Be careful not to use to much or overflow, as clean up will be difficult due to the bleach mixture.

The next thing to do (if icing up) is to determine why. A careful check of the defrost circuit should be done. Otherwise, you'll be doing this over - and it may start to affect the temperatures in the frozen and fresh food sections of the fridge.

I hope this helps!

You may have to open the door to let the dispenser thaw since it's in the door.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..

I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.

If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,

After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.

The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.

Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.

When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.

Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!

Replace the cold control

I can't help but wonder if the light is staying on... :)

It certainly sounds like a door seal, but did they replace the thermostat, or is that what you mean when you say sensor?

sometimes when the cooler weather comes in you may need to chnge temp setings to a warmer setting to prevent some items from freezing ie: leafy vegetables, water bottles, eggs, etc etc.

now if you are having total freeze up of everything in the ref section then you could have bad temp control or damper assy.