Question about Acer X221WSD Monitor

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Blank ACer X221W Monitor

I have an Acer X221W monitor connected to an HP Pavilion a320n desktop. It has been working fine for the last 6 months until yesterday when the screen went dim and then blank. If I switch the monitor off then on the screen shows "ACER" briefly for about two seconds then flickers dimly and then goes blank.
Is the power supply faulty or is it something else?

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  • Chings Mar 06, 2008


    Thank you for this advice. Do you know how the rer panel of the monitor comes off?

    I will need to look at the inverter board because the screen goes completely dark after first coming. I see the desktop image for a second before the screen goes dark. The flashlight test did not help. I can't see anything.

    There is also a high pitch buzz coming from the monitor during the short time the display shows an image. I suspect a cap is blown on the PS. I can replace but need to get the rear panel off. Seems like a tricky job.


  • Chings Mar 07, 2008

    Thank you Tan.I was able to get the cover off as described. Now I will look for faulty cap or whatever.

  • Chings Mar 13, 2008

    Hello Tan,

    I have had a look at the inverter board and everything looks ok - no visible signs of capacitor burns, weeping etc and the +12V and +5V work fine under load. There is a second board which I guess is the driver for the LCD screen. Is there something I can check on that?

    The screen seems to come up momentarily after every 'wake-up' from a mouse movement but then goes black again. And the 'power on' LED button always stays green - a good thing I expect.

    Any other fixes you can suggest?

  • baker318ti Dec 15, 2008

    I've got the same problem. Quite frustrating really. Just...happened one day. I really would like to save the monitor, but it seems as though nothing is working. Has anyone had any progress in finding out what exactly is wrong here?

  • Anonymous Jan 11, 2009

    monitor screen stays on for one second then goes black

  • Artyx80 Jan 26, 2009

    I have the same monitor and almost same problem. When I turn my monitor on I can see Acer text and also for 2 second there is desktop also. It seems that all the lamps are working, but after that 2 seconds it goes black. With a lamp I can see that the desktop is still there. Is the inverter board the problem? I already opened my monitor and for my eyes the condensators seemed to be just fine. There was 4 condensators. 3 of them where close to each other and one was a bit away. They where 2 x 25v, 680uF, 105 celsius and 2 x 10v, 1000uF, 105 celsius. I already checked the "cold joint" case and that was not the problem. Should I get new condensators just in case for this problem? Or is there any other solution? Thanx!!!

  • tsilver Jan 31, 2009

    Same thing just happened to me... last night I saw for the first time, but power on/off the monitor and was ok. Today, it is not able to recover.

  • RissRoss Feb 10, 2009

    Mine is doing the same thing. Early this morning i was able to use it just fine, turned the monitor, now today when i turned on my cable box, the picture showed for 2-3 second then went black. Switched over to my Xbox, and the same problem. Don't want to open it myself just incase i void out any warrenty i may have left on the product. Im trying to get a hold of Best Buy cause that where i purchased it, and the Acer website says I have a 3-year walk in warrenty, I'm just hoping that i dont need the receipt because i bought this a little over a year ago and have no idea where it would be.

  • Anonymous Apr 12, 2009

    Exactly the same problem that developed in TWO identical monitors within three weeks of one another. I had two identical monitors in a dual monitor arrangement. So both failed after nearly identical times of use. UUgh!

  • Anonymous May 05, 2009

    same as listed above. All of the sudden the screen won't work. I shut it off, turn it back on and the word acer dimly flashers for 3 seconds then black for 5 seconds, then will show screen (very dim also) for 3 seconds and go black again.



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Hi this is the way how to examine what's wrong with your LCD monitors. Power on both CPU and monitor. After it went dim and blank, you have to check if you can see the image on the screen or not by shining a flashlight into the screen, not directly but find the best angle to the screen and take a look very closely. If you can see the icons or any image, there will be a minor problem. Like me, I can see window image using flashlight and check lamps inside. Some of them were broken and it is easily replaced. If you cannot see anything on the screen, there'll be some problems with inverter board. If you have soldering tool and want to fix it by yourself, check the caps first. It may cause this problem. Some caps might show leaking or burn spot on the board because of too high temp. If you don't have soldering tool, you better go get a technician to do so.

Posted on Mar 06, 2008

  • Somsak Tantong
    Somsak Tantong Mar 07, 2008

    I used to fix a monitor from Dell. There are 4 screws for rear panel and no screw for front frame. If there is no visible screw, you have to look for "capped" screw holes (little covers that fit flush with the case to hide the screws). If you don't see these neither, this must be a tension fit case. So, face the screen up and look for "rectangular
    hole" on the side edge (usually at the bottom edge of the screen). This
    will be a challenge to open without breaking it. You'll need a very thin flat
    screw driver and wedge it into that narrow rectangular hole. You can use any
    prybar if you don't have screw driver. It is not too deep. You may stab
    something important inside and pry it. Once it starts to spread, start sliding
    it along the seem and you should feel the tension tabs start
    "popping" open. Continue to work your way around until it's off. Hope this will help you to get the rear panel off. If there is anything I can help you with, feel free to let me know.
    Thank you,

  • Somsak Tantong
    Somsak Tantong Mar 13, 2008

    That sounds good so far. I would suggest that you should check CCFL lamps inside the lamp cases. Don't do anything with the inverter board until you make sure that everything else is fine. Go to this website and see what CCFL lamb looks like.


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Common problem with that monitor (backlight works for 2-3 seconds) is transormer SPI 8TC00332

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

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One of my clients just dropped one of these things off. It has the same issues, and I took a chance on trying to fix it. To get the rear panel off, remove the two screws at the base of the display, then start prying the case open with flat screwdrivers. It's best to start at the corners, and one-by-one pry apart the compression fit locks (there are about 3 on each side) that hold it together. Once inside the case, getting into the power board it no problem. On looking at the power-video board, I found 3 mushroomed capacitors: two 15V 220uf, and one 15V 330uf. I had no problem finding the 220uf caps in an old monitor, but the 330uf is a really odd duck. I took a chance and put a 470uf cap in it's place. There's a marked improvement, though it's still far from fixed. Where it used to shut off after 5 seconds, it now stays on for as long as 5 minutes at a stretch...but always winds up going black. If I toggle the switch, it'll come back on....for anywhere between 10 seconds to five minutes. I'm still on the hunt for a 330uf cap, or may try to rig a 220uf and a 100uf in parallel. Not a complete solution, but helpful perhaps.

Posted on May 02, 2009

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Hello Ching. I have an acer AL1917W LCD monitor, and my problem is the same. When I turned on the monitor for the frist time on the day, it seems to work ok for about 2 or 3 minutes, then it goes black and the power button goes from green to yellow and then green again, and the acer logo appears just the same way as when I turned on the monitor for the first time. And this continues in a cyclic way. Then, the power button goes from green to off, then yellow, then off, and so on, and the acer logo continues appearing and dissapearing the same way.
I have read about some faulty capacitors inside and I think I can remove them and check them with a universal bridge (I have one HP) but my main problem right now is how to remove the back cover. There are not visible screws and the only thing I can see is a hole with a padlock drawed near this hole. I think is through this hole that the cover can be removed.
Any one knows how to remove this cover? Will I need some sort of specific tool to do that? Please, I need your help.
Mexico city.

Posted on May 22, 2008

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