Okay, so I am trying to kill two birds with one stone here.
1. The unit starts working when I set the timer even though the door is still open. Only powers off when the timer reaches zero. I have checked and nothing is stuck in the door lock mechanism. On removing the top cover, no wires appear to be dislodged either.
2. No heat, even though the unit has been running for a while. Elements at the back appear to be ok, although the card-type strip two of them (four in all) are wrapped around appear to be torn. No visible signs of burning/overheating to suggest the element/s are burnt through.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It could be the timer. If after you press the start switch, if you don't hear the timer motor moving, or clicking (try starting the drying in the middle of a heat cycle) and definately try the other heat cycles. Also, try turning the drum by hand (I've heard this can work, though it never works for me!).
If the timer works in manual timing mode, it's the humidity sensor failing and thinking the clothes are already dry. There's also a relay solenoid as part of the start process, if that's not working, it won't kick in the power to the timer. Not all dryers use the solenoid. Best to look up the part number for the starter switch, and see if the image shows a solenoid first. Also (Warning: unplug first before testing), I'm sure you know; but, I feel I should always put this in.
If you've checked all the switches, fuses and thermostats, about the only thing left is the timer and motor. If it was the motor, you'd probably smell it. That leaves the timer or the start switch itself, or it's solenoid if it has one. Usually it's the timer.
Very likely the unit is fried. Start with a electrical tester and go to town inside the back and the bottom of the machine. Also, before you even do that, check the current at the dryer plug. The two hot wires or for 1) the motor and controls, and for 2) the heating elelent. Then check the wire/cord connection at the rear of the machine with the tester. I've been doing this a long time, and my suspicion would be the timer is toasted. The timer is really sensitive to power surges. If not, do the motor. Most dryers have a wiring schematic on a piece of paper inside the rear of the control panel to help you pinpoint the problem. Be blessed.
Have you checked the motor kill switch? Its located by the motor.When the belt comes off the idler pulley actuates this killing power to the machine. Sometimes the switch goes bad over time and needs to be changed. The part number is wd21x10261 and runs around $12
The reasons can be a fault on the program controller unit but as the door does not close the program also will not move further. This must be the clue to the fault. Remove and check the lock and the settings. manually close the door with force and see if the program cycle starts, if not check the door switch and the control panel. Also check for output when the timer counts down. If not the controller unit must be checked for possible problems.
There can be many reasons that a dryer doesn't heat up. To adequately isolate the problem you'll need to do a little electrical sleuthing. Check the resistance of the dryer heating element, you'll need to borrow an ohm meter for that. Verify that there is adequate ventilation for the dryer. If the dryer vent is plugged it may prevent the heating element from functioning properly. There can also be a problem with the timer switch; if the timer isn't turning the heating element on, you won't get heat.
I would need a model number to better narrow the problem down for you. If this is a gas dryer Remove the lower panel. With the lower toe panel removed, start the dryer & watch the igniter. If the igniter glows & cuts off without lighting the gas this would usually indicate the gas valve coils are weak & will need to be replaced. For this type of repair be sure to disconnect the electrical power & turn off the gas to the dryer. If the timer is set in the auto dry cycle, it will not advance if the dryer is not heating. Once you repair the dryer, the timer should start advancing. It is possible that your old timer is good. If you need further assistance please resubmit your question. If this is a electric dryer The timer not advancing from 50 minutes in time dryer & the unit not heating are not related unless 1 leg of the 240 volt supply is lost. Diagnosing a problem like this will require using a volt/ohm meter. With the timer set to time dry you should be getting 240volts to the timer motor & 240volts to the heating element. In the wiring diagram provided L1 comes from the timer on R & goes through the thermal cutoff, oper thermostat & the hi-limit to provide 120volts to 1 leg of the heating element. The L2 leg goes through the motor switch to the other side of the heating element. This is how the element gets 240volts. The timer motor gets its voltage on BK from L1 & OR from L2; this is what advances the timer.
Did you read ~220 volts AC across the two slanted blades of the power socket? The motor and controls usually run on 115 volts. When the timer is set to dry, press start, and look for ~220 volts at the heater element connections. (Don't let the heater reach full heat if it starts working!) You may have to short the door switch connections to get the unit to run. If you don't read 220 volts at the plug, check the output from each breaker of the dryer pair (should read 115 volts to neutral). Hope this helps!
Sound`s like a broken drum belt. When the belt break`s on most kenmore/whirlpool dryer`s it prevent`s the unit from starting via a ``kill switch`` located under or next to the belt tensioner/idler pulley.
Since you`ve indicated the timer appear`s to advance/work, it is not the thermal fuse/cut-out.
The other possible fault is in the start button, but that is not very common.
I`d look at the belt. That`s what I`d check first. Hope that help`s.
Always check to make sure you have power at the unit. If power is present and you replaced the timer control there is something else causing your unit not to fire up. I will assume your unit is an electric dryer. Before you check anything inside the dryer make sure your power cord is unplugged. Then check the door switch for continuity. If the door switch test okay then check the thermal fuse located on the blower assembly. Remove one lead and test for continuity, if okay then check the upper limit on the heating box. Again, this is a continuity check and again remove one of the leads before you check for continuity.
If the cycle doesn't complete, check these: 1. Water-heating cycle 2. Timer
Water-heating cycle Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. What happens next, depends, as follows:
On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time.
On others, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the higher temperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn't being heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element or thermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it never continues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycle problem" is fixed too.
Timer Timers don't often fail. But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in one place--doing one function continuously--the timer may be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it. thanks for using FixYa