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Solid fuel stove linked to oilsystem with two zone
Solid fuel stove linked to oil system with two zone heating and hot water zone how do i wire stove stat to open motorised valves without turning oil boiler
Re: solid fuel stove linked to oilsystem with two zone
Put a temperature operated control (aquastat) on the piping of the wood stove so that if it is on, it will interupt the circuit wired to the oil burner at the X&X terminals of the boiler control.As the wood stove cools off, it will close the connection allowing the oil system to fire.
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You have a real good description of your thermostat-- I wonder why you suspect the thermostat to be causing your 'No Hot Water' problem?
First of all, I have to be sure I understand your real problem-- When you say you want to 'turn the Hot Water back on', (It is 'Not going') Do you mean you want a boiler (maybe in the basement?) -- or maybe a zone valve in a Hot Water, Baseboard heating system-- to be heating your house/ room/ apartment?
I would suppose, if you have the thermostat set higher than the room temperature, that it should be giving a 'call' to the boiler (or Baseboard Hot Water Heater..) to ignite a fire, and heat the waer, and then heat your room, or house.
So-- Could the problem be in the Device heating the Hot Water?
Please tell us more about your heating system-- what type of fuel, -- What happens when you lower the Thermostat, and then raise it-- What used to happen, and what does NOT now happen, etc.
Tell us more clues-- maybe we can help remotely like this-
You're getting a new wood stove and you have many decisions to make. Other than brand, you need to decide whether you will use hot air or hot water to get the heat from the wood stove to the living space.
If you have a hot water heating system already installed then you obviously need to have a water stove. If you are thinking about what to install in a new home or already have hot air then you need to consider what will be the best option for you.
Now if you are installing a new system then you want to go hot water. That is by far the best way of heating and will be the best way to heat using an outdoor wood stove. Hot water heating is one of the best ways to get great heat transfer from the fire to the water to the air.
If you have hot air heat and want to heat with wood then you can install a wood hot air furnace, and set it beside your existing furnace. The ductwork will have to be reworked to get the heat from the wood furnace to the existing ductwork. Or you can install a coil into the ductwork on the supply side of the furnace, for the water to run through from a hot water wood burner. This is probably the best way to heat if you have a hot air furnace. Installing the hot water coil is a very simple process and the piping is fairly easy to hookup.
Hot air wood furnaces are almost always a inside the structure appliance, which means that you have the mess of the wood and the ashes inside. This dust and dirt mess is something that is much better kept outside where it can be cleaned up much easier.
Bottom line here is that you want to use a hot water wood burning stove if you can. You will be much happier with the heat that you get from burning wood.
Okay couple questions here because either you have hot water baseboards or you have electric baseboard heaters.
- if the system is a hydronic baseboard heater fed form main boiler, usually this means your space heat is controlled by a zone valve which the zone valve is controlled by your thermostat.
-if you find the zone is controlled by a zone valve than it is possible the zone valve is defective causing hot water to bleed past the zone valve even though your t-stat is telling it to close.
- first find out what excatly the baseboard is heated by either water or electricity
-next personal message me and I can walk you through it
If you are using more than one heat source you will have 1 more pump than the heat source pumps
Main pump = SYSTEM pump pumps through the indirect hot water system and back into itself. This is the system loop.
The other two boilers tee into this loop upstream of the indirect tank, downstream of the SYSTEM pump.
The cold water return to each boiler tees into the system loop next to and upstream of where the hot water for that boiler tees into the system the loop.
The oil boiler will have its own pump on its return line from the sytem loop and the solid fuel boiler will have its own pump. When any boiler fires, it turns on its own pump AND the system pump.
If you want a drawing email me [email protected] send a fax number and I'll fax you a drawing.
Hi,
The problem is probably with the circulator pump or the zone valve, which ever way your water circulating from the boiler is controled.
The water needs to be moved through the boiler and the coils in the Hot water maker to heat water. If this is not happening then no water will be heated.
Check for power and then is the pump is running or the zone valve opening.
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
ASSUMING THAT YOU HAVE HOT WATER SYSTEM,IT IS TIME TO THINK ABOUT REPLACING THE ZONE VALVE.IF YOU DISCONNECT THE ZONE VALVE,THAT AREA WILL NOT GET
ANY HEAT.IF YOU CAN GET THROUGH REST OF THE HEATING SEASON WITHOUT IT,TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE ENTIRE SYSTEM.THEN DISCONNECT THE POWER SUPPLY TO JUST THAT VALVE.BE CAREFUL TO PUT WIRE NUTS ON ANY EXPOSED BARE WIRES.YOU CAN THEN RESTORE POWER TO THE MAIN SYSTEM.
i would check my water pressure on boiler sounds like lack of pressure or air in system they can be related. if you have bleeder on baseboard try to bleed.
Since you have three on/off timing modes could there be an overlap in the times?
The wires in the unit might be crossed. (don't always assume the contractor who wired maintained the correct colors , I have a friend who blew out a heating pipe because when a replacement motor valve was installed it was never wired right and the plumber assumed the colors were correct so no overtemp shutoff created steam in PVC pipes, OPPS)
There fore maybe one is still coming on. Do you have more than one heating zone? IF so see below
I guess the main question is why manually turn it off? why not use the program.
I will assume your heat is know as forced hot water heating. My house is multizoned however when the zone calling for heat turns off (zone valve closes) I installed a bypass valve in the lowest zone in the house, and reduced the circulator low shut off temp to 130 F which means even though the heat isn't on my circulator will continue to run dumping this excess heat in the lowest part of house to rise through house. (the spring loaded water valve allows the heated water to flow into this zone )We do have two thermistats. And even though the lowest one is not calling for heat the radiators are hot when the excess is dumped into this zone. So investigate and see if your system might be similar. (multizone).
Investigate your wiring, reprogram, replace any battery backup.
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