Question about RCA P60920BL 60" Rear Projection Television

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Thank you for responding

Well, I'm not sure how to check the fuses. And I don't really hear anything back there when someone tries to turn it on.

What are the chances it is a blown fuse, and how much generally do those cost to have replaced? I've had the color tubes fixed/replaced in this before, and I feel comfortable going back to the same people, but it costs good money to have them come look at it and I wanna get a general idea before I call them.

Can't thank you enough for taking the time to respond to me.

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  • RCA Master
  • 8,617 Answers

You can check the fuses with an ohms meter if the needle moves the fuses are good, if not the fuses are bad.

Posted on Mar 05, 2008

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Toshiba


do you get a flashing led if so how many times?

this is a post from someone else:
Thought I would report my finding with this set. Maybe someone else is experiencing the same problem.

The set would turn on with no picture. No high voltage - no raster. By turning up the volume, you can hear some noise in the speakers. This set has many fuses and they all checked out ok.

I located some schematics on the net for the previous generation set - 40H80/56H80. I could not find any site with the 50H82 schematics without paying. The 40H80 seemed to match the 50H82 fairly closely. I checked the horizontal output transistor with a scope and found no signal. I traced the signal back to a board on the signal schematic called the DPC module. No HOT signal was being generated by this module. Per the schematic, I checked the voltage supply pins at this module and found everything ok except pin 6 which is supposed to be +12V. I traced this back to the power supply connector and found voltage (pin3 of 8 on BB30). Since I got the set for free and I was feeling risky, I shorted the +12V at the connector to pin 6 on the DPC. I got a small spark and the set shutoff, but I could hear static which indicated that the HOT briefly same on. I shorted out the connection again and turned the set on. This time is powered up and came back to life. I've run the set for a couple days so far and it appears to be working great.

I may have gotten very lucky, or I may be shorting out something that is not supposed to be shorted. I would really appreciate it if someone who has the real 50H82 schematic could check the connection between DPC pin 6 and the power supply connector BB30. If this is a real connection, I have to assume that the trace burned out somewhere. It vias up and down all over the place and is very hard to follow.

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