Well, I'm not sure how to check the fuses. And I don't really hear anything back there when someone tries to turn it on.
What are the chances it is a blown fuse, and how much generally do
those cost to have replaced? I've had the color tubes
fixed/replaced in this before, and I feel comfortable going back to the
same people, but it costs good money to have them come look at it and I
wanna get a general idea before I call them.
Can't thank you enough for taking the time to respond to me.
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smell in the back on either side. if you can smell something like hot or burnt plastic/rubber it would be your flyback transformer. You could also check the fuse. It would be located inside where the cord goes in. If you have no knowledge of electric,I suggest you have someone who does check the fuse.
hello! your issue has nothing to do with "thermal switch". while you have replaced the lamp, you could lose a piece of plastic hardware, in front of the lamp housing. It pushes auxiliary interlock switch, right under the front of the lamp compartment. If you take lamp out, use flashlight and shine inside. There is a little switch at the bottom. Try to make the lamp housing push it, without breaking anything. you could get "generic" lamp with housing, which is not correct. Anyway, that's the deal. Also: don't forget to install lamp door and turn the handle clockwise! there is another switch. I've seen people who forget to put that door back! Really! good luck, Alex.
No, that'll do it. Once you've changed em you'll know right away if somethin isn't right. But take faith and fire that puppy up. If the pix is good you did good. If something is amiss. I'd be happy to walk you through it. My money is on you though.
Is it actually convergence that was out?? This particular model has a hyper module that can go bad causing video distortion but usually not just bending the blue, red, & green light like a convergence problem...
The Hyper board is a standup-up board on the left looking into the back of the TV, located behind the jack panel plug-ins. It has a metal cage around it and inside that are several 10mf/16v caps that go bad... Their board locations are:
Cx261 Cx230 Cx270 Cz52 Cx178 Cx221 C514 Cx250 Cx670 Cx241 Cx541
The board is no longer available so techs simply rebuild those boards using mini radial camcorder caps.
If you're dead sure it's only convergence I'd say to check the amps over again and take an meter to check the yoke return resistors. One or more may be out of value feeding the amps.
Anything else let me know...
William Rayburn, CET
Try removing the Green CRt PC voard that is on the bottom of the green Picture tube which is the center one. Then replace the fuse and see if your set powers up if it does you need a new gree tube. Just be sure the crt board doesnt touch anything while you try it. then let me know what happened, if you need a tube they arent available new any longer but I have a source for good used picture tubes,
this is a post from someone else: Thought I would report my finding with this set. Maybe someone else is experiencing the same problem.
The set would turn on with no picture. No high voltage - no raster. By
turning up the volume, you can hear some noise in the speakers. This
set has many fuses and they all checked out ok.
I located some schematics on the net for the previous generation set -
40H80/56H80. I could not find any site with the 50H82 schematics
without paying. The 40H80 seemed to match the 50H82 fairly closely. I
checked the horizontal output transistor with a scope and found no
signal. I traced the signal back to a board on the signal schematic
called the DPC module. No HOT signal was being generated by this
module. Per the schematic, I checked the voltage supply pins at this
module and found everything ok except pin 6 which is supposed to be
+12V. I traced this back to the power supply connector and found
voltage (pin3 of 8 on BB30). Since I got the set for free and I was
feeling risky, I shorted the +12V at the connector to pin 6 on the DPC.
I got a small spark and the set shutoff, but I could hear static which
indicated that the HOT briefly same on. I shorted out the connection
again and turned the set on. This time is powered up and came back to
life. I've run the set for a couple days so far and it appears to be
I may have gotten very lucky, or I may be shorting out something that
is not supposed to be shorted. I would really appreciate it if someone
who has the real 50H82 schematic could check the connection between DPC
pin 6 and the power supply connector BB30. If this is a real
connection, I have to assume that the trace burned out somewhere. It
vias up and down all over the place and is very hard to follow.
The fuse should be near where the line cord is attached to the power supply inside the TV. Be careful as there is a possibility of some DC voltage present from filter capacitors still holding a charge, long after the set is unplugged. If a fuse is blown and blackened, a new fuse will probably do the same when the set is plugged back in. Make sure you use the exact same rated fuse. IF the new fuse blows right away, do not repeat the process, it will only cause more damage. Good Luck.