Question about Pioneer GEX-P910XM Satellite Radio Receiver
I have 3 of these units and all of them had the positive and negative power wires swithed around by mistake. The inline fuse had blown, and replaced with new one, checked to see if we were getting power to the plug into the unit from both the red and yellow-red wire and was getting power, checked ground wire ,was ok. My question is ....Is their a fuse or part on the inside of the unit that could have blown? If so where is the part that needs to be replaced? I have opened the case and cannot fined anything that looks out of the ordinary....I have a voltage meter but where do I check?
With the indulgence of eagle338.....
Most if not all 12VDC devices of this nature would have some sort of reverse protection circuitry. This could be a big diode wired/soldered immediately after the power wires coming into the unit.
Additionally, it would generally be divided into several sections.
1. Standard tuner section;
2. Satellite tuner section;
3. Logic circuitry; and
4. Amplifier circuitry.
The amplifier circuitry would be using straight 12 volts and the chance of the amplifier ICs going dead are very high being reverse powered. It may also be worth your while to check/replace the capacitors above 47uF/16V. Other than that, most discrete components in the amp circuit can withstand momentary reverse power.
All logic circuitry (and the digital tuners) would be using +5VDC. This is realized with the use of a regulator from the 12V line. This could either be a 3 terminal, a switching regulator or a zener diode/resistor combo. Both will go dead when reverse powered. There are also capacitors in this section similar to the amp.
There would also normally be a power limiting resistor somewhere along the different B+ line (0.47ohms or something lie that) which would open when components consume high current or as in your case reverse powered. In some instances, there would be inductors as well as resistors.
Since as described above, the component level repair would be relatively extensive, it may be to your advantage to replace the entire board (if ever available) as suggested by eagle338. Additionally, this would require in depth knowledge of electronic circuitry and components, use of a DVM and a soldering iron.
Though I have to say that I beg to differ on the board replacement. More often, the cost of replacement, the downtime and waiting time would not justify any further repairs. Perhaps you should consider replacing the entire unit to save you the trouble.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Posted on Mar 05, 2008
I am afraid the entire circuit board is screwed this happens because you have shorted the device by interchanging the + and - terminals. You will need to replace it.. It has happened once with me too..
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 15, 2014 | 2006 Ford Focus
Choose where to put your new amp. If you are installing subwoofers it's usually best to put the amplifier in the trunk next to or attached to your subwoofer enclosure. If you are going to power your main car speakers with the amplifier then it may be better to put the amp under the passenger's seat.
Purchase the following wiring for the amp: A thick power cable (the thickness required depends on the total wattage of your amp, ask a sales rep or consult your amplifier's manual for the proper gauge) that will have to reach from your battery to the amp (the power cable should also have an inline fuse to protect the amplifier); 3 feet of ground cable of equal thickness as the power cable; an RCA signal cable to carry the left and right signals from your head unit to the amp; a "remote on" wire which can be any thin wire (20 to 24 gauge) that will also run from the head unit to the amp; speaker wire (if you are powering subwoofers you should only need about 3 feet of 12-gauge wire per sub, if you're going to power your main speakers you will need enough 16-gauge wire to reach each speaker from the amp, 12 feet per speaker is usually safe).
Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, a utility knife, sandpaper, masking tape with a pen for labeling, 2 crimp-on o-ring ends for the power and ground cables. If you're hooking the amp to your speakers, you'll also need 2 crimp-on female spade connectors for each speaker.
Find a manual with instructions on taking off the dash of your car (not the whole dash--just the head unit, in order to hook wires to the back), and also to get at your car's speakers if you are hooking the amp to them.
Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery. Never work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
Attach the side with the fuse of the thick positive (+/red) power cable to the connector on the positive terminal of your battery; the o-ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery. Now put the fuse in the fuse holder.
Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the driver's side) and to your amplifier. If your amp is in the back it is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car. Be careful where you run the wire because the power cables should never be near the signal or speaker wires.
Find a metal bolt or screw on the metal of your car near the amp to connect the ground cable to. This should be as close to the amp as possible, never more than 3 feet. Unscrew it and clean the metal surface with sandpaper. Attach the ground to it with the o-ring and screw it back down firmly.
Remove your head unit and run the signal and remote on wires from behind the head unit to your amp. Connect the RCA connectors and the remote on wire to the back of your head unit.
(If you are installing subwoofers and not running your normal speakers off the amplifier skip to step 7.) Run the 16-gauge wire from each one of your speakers to the amplifier. On the amp side use the masking tape to label each wire so you know which speaker it is. On the speaker end-strip a 1/4 inch off the ends of the wires and crimp on the female spade connectors with your pliers. Connect the spade connectors to your speakers making sure to match the positive (+/red or white) with the positive terminal and the negative (-/black) with the negative one.
Connect everything to your amplifier. Only strip off as much as you need off the end of each wire to make a solid connection, you don't want any exposed wire hanging out. If you have subs, attach them to the amp with the 12-gauge speaker wire.
Secure your amp to something. If it is in the back you can screw it directly to your subwoofer enclosure. If it is under a seat you may just want to get some straps that hold it down.
Reconnect your car's negative cable to the battery. Test your system and make sure everything works, going around to see that every speaker is on before you put everything back together
Feb 17, 2011 | Car Audio & Video
Nov 11, 2010 | Motorola VC5090-MA0QM0GH6WR Wireless...
Nov 01, 2009 | Cobra 29 LTD CB Radio
Oct 29, 2008 | Car Audio & Video
Sep 16, 2008 | Pioneer Car Audio & Video
Aug 12, 2008 | 2006 Ford Taurus
103 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: