I have been trying to fix the icemaker with no success, following the instruction sheet that was behind the kick plate. finally I removed the icemaker, hooked a volt meter to the two bottom pins of the plug that connect to the icemaker and closed the door. I am not getting the110V. Also I tried hooking the icemaker to 110 outside of the fridge and the motor works fine. When I perform the Ice maker diagnostics procedure, I get to the step #7 (with T and H jumpered) but the icemaker won´t start. There is no voltage feeding the icemaker. What else can I do? I am living out of the US so it´s not easy to get spares. I need to fix it. thanks.
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Re: icemaker won´t work
If you got 110 volts to ice maker. try jumping out the T & H ( a small insulated copperwire) . this will cause the ice maker cycle, if this does nothing replace the ice maker.(entire assy cheaper then the parts). remeber you might have to shut the door switch to get the 110v. some machines run the power through light switch
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Model number 795 it's an LG fridge. Even if it says Kenmore on it. LG is the manufacturer of that fridge. If it's a newer fridge & or your the original owner. Take the kick plate off the bottom front of the fridge. Either in that kick plate or looking in were that kick plate was on the top wall of the bottom of the fridge you'll see a plastic envelope with sone folded up papers in it. Those white pages are called tech sheets for the tech that comes to your house to fix your fridge. They are best left under the fridge or in the kick plate but alot of the time they aren't put back. Why I asked if yiur the original owner. If you are able to locate those tech sheets. They should list the trouble codes and what the code stands for. I don't remember what it stands for. Taking a guess it means error fresh food or er/ff. Don't quote me on it I'm not sure of my answer but I think it's a faulty thermistor in the fresh food section. Fresh food section is the refrigerator section. Please check to make sure you have the correct problem before doing anything. I'm taking a guess just from memory as to what the error code is. At least with the tech sheets, hope they are there. You'll be able to find out what the code means.
What is timer? Timer is a small motorized unit that controls
the function of defrosts cycle in a refrigerator. The defrost timer tells the
refrigerator when to cool and when to defrost any ice frost collected on/in the
evaporator coil. Now the procedure to replace the timer is as
follows:-- 1)First of all for
proper safety please unplug the unit from power outlet. 2)Then
to locate the timer. It is located behind the refrigerator beside
the compressor of the refrigerator. You will have to remove the metal kick
plate on the bottom of the refrigerator. In older models refrigerator it is
built into the icemaker unit. 3)In
some models timer is fitted by the screws on the side wall of the refrigerator unit. so if screws are seen remove the screws holding the
timer to the refrigerator wall. 4)Then slowly/carefully remove the timer out of the unit so you can
disconnect the wiring from the connectors. For easy access of connectors try
wiggling the connectors back and forth it will be disconnected. 5)Before removing the connectors please take a note of which
connector was connected where and in what position. 6)Then take a new timer and plug the connectors in same position
and at same spot in the new timer. 7)The refit the screws if
you removed while removing the old defrost timer, replace the kick plate cover
and plug in refrigerator and check out. This will help. Thanks.
dissconnect water line coupling behind lower kick plate under door. push water dispenser; and sell if water flows out line. keep a towel handy. it there is water; then, the problem is in the door itself. of course, make sure the water solenioids are working.
If your icemaker does not dump ice it may be that a micro switch may have gone bad behind the metal plate on the icemaker which is behind the plastic cover. Check and see if you have a cam gear broke or worn out on the icemaker. Easy to replace and very affordable.
Your unit has infered sensors on the frezzer left and right walls. There is a diagnostic test sheet brown in color in your kick plate.All you have to do is open frezzer door look on the right sensor it should blink twice followed by a 1-2 sec delay,if that is good press in flapper door on right sensor do not block path of infered beam you will not see a beam its invisable.Once you hold in flapper on right sensor the led should be solid.If solid optics are good if not solid led replace optic sensors