I have been trying to fix the icemaker with no success, following the instruction sheet that was behind the kick plate. finally I removed the icemaker, hooked a volt meter to the two bottom pins of the plug that connect to the icemaker and closed the door. I am not getting the110V. Also I tried hooking the icemaker to 110 outside of the fridge and the motor works fine. When I perform the Ice maker diagnostics procedure, I get to the step #7 (with T and H jumpered) but the icemaker won´t start. There is no voltage feeding the icemaker. What else can I do? I am living out of the US so it´s not easy to get spares. I need to fix it. thanks.
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Re: icemaker won´t work
If you got 110 volts to ice maker. try jumping out the T & H ( a small insulated copperwire) . this will cause the ice maker cycle, if this does nothing replace the ice maker.(entire assy cheaper then the parts). remeber you might have to shut the door switch to get the 110v. some machines run the power through light switch
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In the manual the fix is to clean the ice maker with cleaner. Your ice slab is not releasing during harvest. The plate (evaporator) has minerals on it and needs to be cleaned to remove the build up. On the door of the unit has cleaning instruction, do not short cut the cleaning process, this does take about an hour and follow the instruction to the letter.
This is not a major issue, just cleaning is needed.
I have a Maytag MDB7100AWS which suddenly started blinking the following LEDs: Clean, Rinse Only, Regular Wash, Tough Scrub and Heated dry. Tried cycling the breaker, no help. Tried the key sequences in the troubleshooting sheet behind the kick panel, no help. Then happened to press the Drain/Off button twice. All LEDs went out and am now on my second successful load, fingers crossed. Suspect the control board got latched up somehow.
You may have inadvertently locked the operator console. This is actually a
built in safety feature that allows you to lock the operator control
panel to keep small children from manipulating the controls. The
following link explains how to correct:
These instructions are for most Whirlpool manufactured front loaders.
This includes Kenmore and Maytag models too. Keep in mind, all washers
do not have the same control features. If your features differ from the
ones I have outlined, the instructions should be either printed on the
front panel, or in your technical data
sheet. The tech sheet will be located inside the washer behind the
lower kick panel. If not behind the lower panel, it will be affixed to
one of the interior cabinet walls.
If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this has been helpful to you.
The thickness probe should be approximatly 1/4 inch off of the evaporator.Sounds like you might have loose grids on the evaporator.turn the unit off and remove the curtain.use a flash light and inspect the grids.There should not be space in between the joints,if there is the ice will freeze behind the grids and not properly release when in harvest. Also gently pull at the grids,if they pull towards you or wiggle then they are separating. I have removed one of the grids and had the unit continue to run for sometime until the evaporator could be replaced.The plating being spotty causes release issues as well.Finally check the level of the machine,front to back and side to side.Not being level will also cause release problems
Your unit has infered sensors on the frezzer left and right walls. There is a diagnostic test sheet brown in color in your kick plate.All you have to do is open frezzer door look on the right sensor it should blink twice followed by a 1-2 sec delay,if that is good press in flapper door on right sensor do not block path of infered beam you will not see a beam its invisable.Once you hold in flapper on right sensor the led should be solid.If solid optics are good if not solid led replace optic sensors
I'd check the terminal connections and twist them a little to see if they're loose or corroded.
Then follow the wires and check all other connections from the battery.
Can you jump start it?
If not it could be the solenoid or something else!
I once had this problem and finally discovered it was a melted connector under the dash on the drivers side right below the ignition.
I hope this was helpful!