Question about Frigidaire FRS3R5EMB Side by Side Refrigerator

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Is the Defrost Heating Element Defective?

I have a problem with the defrost cycle, thermostat and timer check out OK. This model has a "U" shaped defrost heating element. Only the bottom half of the element glows red during defrost cycle, is it defective?

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No not at all, it it was bad wouldnt glow at all. and the fact its glowing tells me yes timer and thermo are good.doesnt sound like your having a defrost problem at all

Posted on Mar 04, 2008

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GE model gth16dberww top mount freezer. Freezer is iced over. Removed rear cover and coils are also iced over. Poured warm water into drain and water immediately exited to drip pan. not sure where to


Sounds like the defrost timer is not functioning, or a defrost element is burnt out.
#1. After an accumulative "run time", typically the timer will initiate a defrost cycle. At that point the defrost heaters are energized and the compressor is turned off for the duration of the cycle. The defrost time cycle varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and can be as low as 15 minutes to as much as a half hour. If it is defective, it could be stuck in the cooling position not initiating a defrost function.

#2. If the defrost heater element is burnt out, the timer functions normally and will cycle the defective heater on, but there will be no heat generated to defrost the ice.

#3. A more remote possibility is a defective "defrost termination thermostat" which is wired in series with the defrost element. If defective, it will keep the element from energizing on a call for defrost.

At any rate, unless you are extremely handy AND have access to a supplier of repair parts, it sounds like a service tech needs to be called.

Oct 17, 2014 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Whirlpool refrigerator freezes,but not cold enough in lower part. I performed the steps to determine if its a faulty timer,defrost resistance or thermostat.If the refrigerator cycles on and off normaly,but...


Hello,

Yes by advancing the defrost timer to the defrost mode and the heater not come on the defrost timer is good and it will be either the defrost heater or t-stat

When checking the defrost heater using a multimeter set to measure ohms of resistiance the defrost heater should measure to be appx 10-20 ohms if good and infinate ohms if the heater is defective

If good the defrost thermostat will be ZERO ohms...please note when checking the t-stat it MUST BE CHECKED WHEN COLD so its best to check it when frost is built up on the evaperator (freezer)coil


GENE

Oct 14, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frigidaire PLHS269ZDB9 is not getting cold enough to freeze or make ice. I took off the panel , there is an ice block on the thermostat to the evaporator. trying to defrost.


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor


Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.



Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.

*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.



Defrost heater:

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.


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Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.


Nov 28, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer cuts off and stays off for a long time before it turns back on, all my food in my freezer thawed out and I have to through it all out. My husband thinks it might be the defrost timer or the...


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Actually it sounds like the thermostat and the timer are working just fine. What appears to be happening is the timer is starting the defrost cycle but the defrost heater is not working. This will result in a horribly long defrost time until the freezer compartment reaches 60 deg F and the defrost thermostat at that point terminates the defrost cycle.

Defrost element Item 9 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=48487&diagram_id=671582#d671582

Detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4070730

Defrost thermostat item 12 above first link

Detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4070255

You should read the resistance of the defrost heater by reading the yellow to blue wire (terminals 2 to 3) on the defrost control when the freezer comparment is below 60 deg F at the evaporator. No resistance = open defrost heating element. This is reading continuity though both the defrost thermostat and the heating element. If you do not get any resistance and you are sure that the freezer is well below 60 deg F then... and only then would the defrost thermostat be suspect.

Defrost control in the overhead of the fresh food compartment is located aft of the lights on the thinner section cand an be manually cycled by rotating the 2 tabs on the face of the timer dial. It will click and stop the compressor and evaportor fan ONCE each turn.
NOTE you must wait 10 to 15 minutes after cycling this so that the compressor will stabilize and restart. Once the comprssor and fan shut off the heater is supposed to turn on and melt the ice on the evaporator until the defrost thermostat reaches 60 deg F and once again provides power to the defrost timer motor to terminate the defrost cycle and restart the compressor.

Defrost timer is item 15 this link:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=48487&diagram_id=663054#d663054

Detailed view:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4084056

This should be enough information to get you going. I still think that your defrost heater is not working either from failure or a wiring problem.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly




Oct 14, 2010 | Maytag MTF1955GRW Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refrig. not cooling properly


if the timer is working the most likely problem is the bi-metal(also called defrost thermostat)it is the disc shaped piece that clamps to the coils behind the back panel.you could also have a problem with the heating element,these items require a multi meter to check

Jan 25, 2010 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

Freezer frosts up and food gets soft


Repair the defrost system, defrost timer,defrost thermostat and defrost heater.

Aug 18, 2009 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

Defrost heater not turninh on


That model has what is called a adaptive defrost on it this fails very often it is located inside the ref under the control panel, The only other possible cause would be a defrost thermostat, this is located near the heater.

Aug 11, 2009 | Maytag MSD2650H Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fridge not cooling


If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

Aug 10, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Freezer is icing over and fridge is not keeping food cold


I really believe your adaptive defrost located inside the fresh food compartment and inside the control panel is defective. It puts your refrigerator on a timely defrost and if defective this problem you listed in your post happens. Yes we may need to also check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat but with my experience with that type of Adaptive Defrost Control is famous for its failure.
ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROL Part Number 61005988 You can find it located on two of my websites. Some models like yours came with a Defrost Timer. We will need just look inside the control panel and see for sure. Here is a photo of the Adaptive defrost. If you should need to contact me please send an email or try to answer here. Problem is I don't get notifications when someone comments. appliancepartsouteast@live.com

Please rate and ask me as much as you like. Thank You, Sea Breeze
Part 61005988

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/

210b72f.jpg

Aug 10, 2009 | Jenn-Air JCD2389G Side by Side...

1 Answer

Why is my Amana Fridge (Model number SSD522T) not defrosting and fan only works sometimes?


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor
 
Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
 
 
Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode. 
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
 
 
Defrost heater:
Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.
 

Jan 06, 2009 | Refrigerators

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