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That clicking sound you hear is your TV's power supply not getting enough current to turn on the screen. Could be as simple as a blown capacitor on the power supply board unit. Many TV repair shops just replace the whole unit, I am almost sure that is your problem with you TV as I've had the same problem with several TV's before. That clicking sound always points to a power supply gone bad.
There are two possible problems. We will concentrate on one first. You say the red light stays on, and the TV will not power up. Actually this is a good sign. This TV has one bad capacitor and a one weak capacitor. The bad capacitor location is C421, which is a 200 volt 10 MF at 85 degrees. Replace with a 200 volt 10Mf at 105 degrees. The second capacitor that is weak is the C482,which is a 50 volt 4.7Mf at 85 degrees. Replace with a 50 volt 4.7 Mf at 105 degrees. This should enable your TV to come back on. If the TV will not come on we will have to replace the eeprom. At this time I believe the eeprom is fine. In either case, the capacitors will need to be replaced. Try that and let me know how you do. Thanks for asking me and show all hands of support!
The 7 blinks are an error indication that is generated by protection circuitry inside the set. A problem has been detected and the set is shutdown to prevent further damage. The cilnking is the power relay that is attempting to turn on the set. I'll look up the eror code and update this with the likely solution later today.
I have the same issue, we've had to change our bulb three times in less than two years. now we have 61" expensive paper weight. Our current bulb is less than 6 months old. The TV is only 2 years old and like i said this is our third bulb.
the blue light blinks 4 times. you get sound. then a few minutes the the picture returns... then it goes out, and the cycle goes on.
Five blinks - AKB circuit (automatic kine bias), the
timer/standby indicator blinks for about 30 seconds then goes to the
self-diagnosis function. Something is wrong with the video. Check video
out, Q705, 732, 761 and other components on the C board, also check
Q218, 219, 220 on the A board. In addition, unit could be in IK
blanking, try turning up screen slightly.
make sure that the scr has adequate insulation. I have run into this problem before several times, and it always comes back to the scr and heatsink. check for shorts before you plug it in. unless you have an isolation transformer, do not hook up ac powered equipment to chassis ground, as this will blow your transistor again. use dc poweered volt-ohm meter.