We seem to have solved our leak problem by lowering water pressure. I turned down the supply faucets. We had our water supply pipe replaced recently, and now we have a much higher water pressure. Perhaps you don't see the leak until the rinse cycle because the first leak is absorbed into the foam on the bottom. The soap dispenser isn't water-tight.
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Without Model number I am only guessing but I suspect you have a blocked sensing tube that travels from the Level selector switch to the side of the tub somewhere. It is possible for this plastic tube to become partially clogged and not allow trapped air to vent when tub is drained of water. Usually this problem manifests itself as an overflow of the tub. Check the full length of this clear hose and see if the end nearest the tub looks like it may have debris or dirty detergent clogging it.
This hose is pushed onto a nipple mounted to a reservoir on the side of the tub. Push a thin copper wire 4-5 inches into the those after removing from nipple and also down into the nipple an inch or two before reinstalling the hose to the nipple. You MIGHT even blow into the hose while you have it off and you SHOULD hear a clicking sound coming from the level selector switch body.
Good Luck. Come back with Model number under lid if that doesn't help.
WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
Check to hose to the water level control. It goes from the outside of the tub up to the control which is located in the same area as the timer. It's usually round with the end of that tube and at least 2 wires connected to it. Disconnect the hose and blow air through it. Reconnect and try again. Still no fill, try filling with that tube disconnected. Watch it the entire time as with the tube off the water should not stop. If it fills all the way with the tube off the water control unit has a problem.
This video will show you how to find that leak on any front
loading washing machine
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It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and
is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is
important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the
identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has
leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the
underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here.
In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the
house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside.
Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose
on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the
drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can
leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this
will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.
If you mean the water runs or drains out during the cycle, the drain hose is too low. It should be as high as the top of the machine. If you mean the water leaks out onto the floor, then it could be a hose has a hole, or the pump is leaking.
It sounds like a siphon issue. Check
that the drain hose does a high loop before it goes into the drain
pipe. (ie. drain hose loops above the water level inside the tub). Make
sure the drain hose is not pushed too far down into the drain pipe.
Also if the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe this will create an
airlock and a siphon will occur, allow air to enter between drain hose
and drain pipe connection. This should help you but if there is still a problem let me know and I'll try to assist you further. Good luck!
most new washers have a cold water only rinse be sure cold water hose is connected to cold side of valve and turned full on ..be sure to ck screen inside cold connection on valve for sand or some other restriction